DIY NA8-T
Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 12:46 pm
Hi all,
So after a long term of my wife and I living off the one wage and not really spending a great deal of cash on myself I finally got the chance to get stuck in to a turbo conversion for the MX. . . on the cheap, detailed expenses listed at the bottom for those interested. The car runs soooo good and I can't rave about the improvement enough! I started by sourcing all of the parts with the plan to do the conversion over a couple of weeks holiday. I have a little workshop at home, extensive tool kit, jack etc. I bought a cheap gasless mig, cut off saw and vice for the project.
I did a decent wack of research - over the forums and general Googling. Shout out to Dann and his DIY turbo article for inspiring me to jump in and DIY and for supplying me my exhaust head plate and steam pipe. viewtopic.php?f=81&t=58863&hilit=DIY&start=30 and hence the main reason for me to do this write up is to help others. This whole project has been a pleasure and it wouldn't have been if I didn't have so much online information to guide me. So please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions I'm sure I've missed out plenty !
So here is my MX and my wifes BRZ
I started by buying this little china turbo off a forum member
I then jumped in a hastily purchased a T28 discharge flange which didn't fit the china 'T28' (later on I actually googled "china T28 flange plate" and found a supplier). This led me to running a 2" dump pipe from the standard turbo outlet instead of a 2 1/2" setup I was hoping for. On a side note if anyone is chasing this plate let me know - I still have it
Meanwhile I had a DIYPNP MS2 on order from the US.
Next step was to get my manifold and dump pipe bits, thanks again Dann who supplied me with a plate and steam pipe to complete the job. Before jumping into this endeavor I didn't have many metal working tools and thus purchased a metal cutting circular saw and gasless mig welder to do the job. Just the el-cheapo bunnings brand stuff - did the job for me!
A couple of test fits with tacking the turbo flange in place and making sure my dump piper had enough room and it was time to weld her up.
Before die-grinding
After:
Note that I did clean up the flange plate and get rid off all the splatters off the inside of the pipe before I bolted it all together! Don't want any of those suckers causing any damage to my wee turbo ;) Shame I also didn't get an 'after' picture of the cleaned up exhaust ports which came up equally as nice.
Most of my exhaust pipe came from old projects or pipe I had lying around with the total dump pipe owing me the cost of one tight 90 degree steam pipe bend. I'm not going to lie I buggered around with the flange that bolts to the cat for ages to get the right angle Only have a painted and wrapped picture of the dump pipe but in actual fact everything was tacked together and test fitted before I did the welds.
Meanwhile I was assembling my DIYPNP MS2 in the evening. I have to admit it did take me a little while to wrap my head around the instructions etc. and even to find out the best resources for the build. But once I got started it was a great experience, I would recommend the DIY option for anyone who doesn't mind just tinkering away at it. I think it took me about 8 hours in total to assemble. Maybe a little more by the time a made a couple of mistakes.
So now that the exhaust side of things was sorted I moved on to everything else working my way from the back of the motor to the front. First thing was to get the coolant re-route sorted. I got the re-route kit off a forum member and the kit did require a bit of refinement. So with a bit of drilling, sealing, cutting, welding and some different hoses she was all good! Now the back of the motor is starting to get cramped so a lot of time was invested setting everything up so I would get minimal rubbing. Including my oil feed line which uses the oil gallery bung at the back of the motor.
So now that the back of the motor was sorted, I moved on to the rest of the turbo lines; coolant feed and return and oil return. I used Dann's guide to drilling and tapping the sump which wasn't without challenge. I struggled for a while to get my tap started on the funky angle/limited space but had a win in the end. I feel it is also important to mention that I spent about an hour at pirtek getting exactly the right fittings for the turbo so I wouldn't struggle later on. For me it ended up that I went with three banjo fittings for the coolant lines and oil feed and a 45 degree oil return. I took extra care in making sure there wouldn't be any tight bends etc. This is where I ran my coolant lines to and unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the return to sump but that one just runs straight down from the turbo.
Note the high temp high pressure hose which I think is a good option for around the turbo.
So now I have all of my lines to the turbo sorted, coolant reroute sorted to the back of the motor, it's time to sort out the intake. I am not running an intercooler at the moment, this may be something I do after I kill the motor and take it all up a level. Due to my hot side coolant re-route taking the route of my prefered plumbing method, I have to take the turbo outlet towards the left headlight then back in front of the motor. I have also plumbed in my idle air control valve inlet.
Last few things is to get some sort of air filter intake happening, I am still yet to get a proper airbox happening so I have done up a temporary pipe and am awaiting requirements from my. . . engineer. Wired in my o2 sensor, IAT sensor and installed ECU. Note I did get a DIY o2 sensor controller from JayCar but ended up being gifted a AEM controller and hence haven't put together the JayCar one. (I still really want to do this but it will take some decent assembly time if anyone is interested http://www.jaycar.com.au/wideband-fuel- ... e/p/KC5486)
So all this was a couple of months ago now. I did the whole thing in my two week time frame only spending the week days on it. Tuning with the megasquirt was a pleasure, I can't believe how easy it was to get the car running well. I have given it a full service after doing about 5,000ks, I have had to tighten some hose clamps along the way in particular the high pressure high temp coolant hose, because of the thick outer wall these do need some decent tension on them. I have also replaced the intake manifold gasket and injector seals/filters.
Some lessons learnt and things I might do differently next time:
Wouldn't do a hot side coolant re-route - makes everything very tight at the back of the motor and limited my front turbo pipe.
I didn't factor in the o2 controller in my research, just something to be aware of as this is a large expense.
Blackwoods have heaps of great hose fittings, pipe etc. Good place to check out.
Find a good exhaust shop to get your mandrel bends from - have been ripped off before, ended up going to Scott's Rods in Ipswich.
So what did it cost? I spent $2074 on all of my parts, including miscellaneous items such as hose clamps, bolts, fluids, sealants etc. I also spent an additional $572 on additional tools for the job, which I can tell you I have used since doing this. See below some more detail if you wish ;)
-19.94 Air Filter
-4.57 Waterpump O'ring
-35.75 Fluids
-22 180 bend
-102.84 Silicon hoses, bends and hose clamps (expensive!)
-28.81 Silicon hose and ally adapter
-88.95 DIY Wideband controller - JayCar
-33 Exhaust bend and flange
-11.2 Nuts and bolts
-25.65 Hose fittings and tap for sump
-15.49 Coolant hose
-28 Steam pipe and welding wire
-235.16 Turbo lines and fittings
-64.98 Silicon hoses and bends
-80 Exhaust pipe and flange
-128.11 O2 Sensor
-20.99 Misc, sealants etc.
-35.45 Serial cable, solder, wire
-29.95 Soldering iron
-170 Manifold parts
-678.38 DIYPNP MS
-40 Airtemp sensor and cast manifold (welding cast was a bust ;))
-175 Turbo
-290 Welder
-179 Cut off saw and vice
-103 Die Grinder and burr
Cheers, Jase.
So after a long term of my wife and I living off the one wage and not really spending a great deal of cash on myself I finally got the chance to get stuck in to a turbo conversion for the MX. . . on the cheap, detailed expenses listed at the bottom for those interested. The car runs soooo good and I can't rave about the improvement enough! I started by sourcing all of the parts with the plan to do the conversion over a couple of weeks holiday. I have a little workshop at home, extensive tool kit, jack etc. I bought a cheap gasless mig, cut off saw and vice for the project.
I did a decent wack of research - over the forums and general Googling. Shout out to Dann and his DIY turbo article for inspiring me to jump in and DIY and for supplying me my exhaust head plate and steam pipe. viewtopic.php?f=81&t=58863&hilit=DIY&start=30 and hence the main reason for me to do this write up is to help others. This whole project has been a pleasure and it wouldn't have been if I didn't have so much online information to guide me. So please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions I'm sure I've missed out plenty !
So here is my MX and my wifes BRZ
I started by buying this little china turbo off a forum member
I then jumped in a hastily purchased a T28 discharge flange which didn't fit the china 'T28' (later on I actually googled "china T28 flange plate" and found a supplier). This led me to running a 2" dump pipe from the standard turbo outlet instead of a 2 1/2" setup I was hoping for. On a side note if anyone is chasing this plate let me know - I still have it
Meanwhile I had a DIYPNP MS2 on order from the US.
Next step was to get my manifold and dump pipe bits, thanks again Dann who supplied me with a plate and steam pipe to complete the job. Before jumping into this endeavor I didn't have many metal working tools and thus purchased a metal cutting circular saw and gasless mig welder to do the job. Just the el-cheapo bunnings brand stuff - did the job for me!
A couple of test fits with tacking the turbo flange in place and making sure my dump piper had enough room and it was time to weld her up.
Before die-grinding
After:
Note that I did clean up the flange plate and get rid off all the splatters off the inside of the pipe before I bolted it all together! Don't want any of those suckers causing any damage to my wee turbo ;) Shame I also didn't get an 'after' picture of the cleaned up exhaust ports which came up equally as nice.
Most of my exhaust pipe came from old projects or pipe I had lying around with the total dump pipe owing me the cost of one tight 90 degree steam pipe bend. I'm not going to lie I buggered around with the flange that bolts to the cat for ages to get the right angle Only have a painted and wrapped picture of the dump pipe but in actual fact everything was tacked together and test fitted before I did the welds.
Meanwhile I was assembling my DIYPNP MS2 in the evening. I have to admit it did take me a little while to wrap my head around the instructions etc. and even to find out the best resources for the build. But once I got started it was a great experience, I would recommend the DIY option for anyone who doesn't mind just tinkering away at it. I think it took me about 8 hours in total to assemble. Maybe a little more by the time a made a couple of mistakes.
So now that the exhaust side of things was sorted I moved on to everything else working my way from the back of the motor to the front. First thing was to get the coolant re-route sorted. I got the re-route kit off a forum member and the kit did require a bit of refinement. So with a bit of drilling, sealing, cutting, welding and some different hoses she was all good! Now the back of the motor is starting to get cramped so a lot of time was invested setting everything up so I would get minimal rubbing. Including my oil feed line which uses the oil gallery bung at the back of the motor.
So now that the back of the motor was sorted, I moved on to the rest of the turbo lines; coolant feed and return and oil return. I used Dann's guide to drilling and tapping the sump which wasn't without challenge. I struggled for a while to get my tap started on the funky angle/limited space but had a win in the end. I feel it is also important to mention that I spent about an hour at pirtek getting exactly the right fittings for the turbo so I wouldn't struggle later on. For me it ended up that I went with three banjo fittings for the coolant lines and oil feed and a 45 degree oil return. I took extra care in making sure there wouldn't be any tight bends etc. This is where I ran my coolant lines to and unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the return to sump but that one just runs straight down from the turbo.
Note the high temp high pressure hose which I think is a good option for around the turbo.
So now I have all of my lines to the turbo sorted, coolant reroute sorted to the back of the motor, it's time to sort out the intake. I am not running an intercooler at the moment, this may be something I do after I kill the motor and take it all up a level. Due to my hot side coolant re-route taking the route of my prefered plumbing method, I have to take the turbo outlet towards the left headlight then back in front of the motor. I have also plumbed in my idle air control valve inlet.
Last few things is to get some sort of air filter intake happening, I am still yet to get a proper airbox happening so I have done up a temporary pipe and am awaiting requirements from my. . . engineer. Wired in my o2 sensor, IAT sensor and installed ECU. Note I did get a DIY o2 sensor controller from JayCar but ended up being gifted a AEM controller and hence haven't put together the JayCar one. (I still really want to do this but it will take some decent assembly time if anyone is interested http://www.jaycar.com.au/wideband-fuel- ... e/p/KC5486)
So all this was a couple of months ago now. I did the whole thing in my two week time frame only spending the week days on it. Tuning with the megasquirt was a pleasure, I can't believe how easy it was to get the car running well. I have given it a full service after doing about 5,000ks, I have had to tighten some hose clamps along the way in particular the high pressure high temp coolant hose, because of the thick outer wall these do need some decent tension on them. I have also replaced the intake manifold gasket and injector seals/filters.
Some lessons learnt and things I might do differently next time:
Wouldn't do a hot side coolant re-route - makes everything very tight at the back of the motor and limited my front turbo pipe.
I didn't factor in the o2 controller in my research, just something to be aware of as this is a large expense.
Blackwoods have heaps of great hose fittings, pipe etc. Good place to check out.
Find a good exhaust shop to get your mandrel bends from - have been ripped off before, ended up going to Scott's Rods in Ipswich.
So what did it cost? I spent $2074 on all of my parts, including miscellaneous items such as hose clamps, bolts, fluids, sealants etc. I also spent an additional $572 on additional tools for the job, which I can tell you I have used since doing this. See below some more detail if you wish ;)
-19.94 Air Filter
-4.57 Waterpump O'ring
-35.75 Fluids
-22 180 bend
-102.84 Silicon hoses, bends and hose clamps (expensive!)
-28.81 Silicon hose and ally adapter
-88.95 DIY Wideband controller - JayCar
-33 Exhaust bend and flange
-11.2 Nuts and bolts
-25.65 Hose fittings and tap for sump
-15.49 Coolant hose
-28 Steam pipe and welding wire
-235.16 Turbo lines and fittings
-64.98 Silicon hoses and bends
-80 Exhaust pipe and flange
-128.11 O2 Sensor
-20.99 Misc, sealants etc.
-35.45 Serial cable, solder, wire
-29.95 Soldering iron
-170 Manifold parts
-678.38 DIYPNP MS
-40 Airtemp sensor and cast manifold (welding cast was a bust ;))
-175 Turbo
-290 Welder
-179 Cut off saw and vice
-103 Die Grinder and burr
Cheers, Jase.