mx5cartalk.com

Greetings,

Interested to know what cooling/clutch setups you guys are running in high powered NB's ?

I just picked up a NB8A with a fully built/forged motor and Garret turbocharged (not sure of spec). Engineered for turbo, RX7 LSD, Corvette brakes and 17" rims (to clear front brakes).

Makes much more power than my Stage II SE did, but can't dyno it as the clutch slips at 1 bar. I run 1/1.25/1.5 bar of boost.

Took it to WP and ran 1.5 bar, but it starts to overheat after two laps, return back to normal after couple of minutes of slow speed/idling. On the street it is fine. Standard radiator by he looks of it. No oil cooler apart from OEM.

1. Clutch, after something that can be dríven on the street, so no ceramic/solid centres. Pedal feel/pressure not of concern.

2. Cooling system, only caveat is that I retain the A/C and the FMIC.

Love the car to bits, so prepared to drop some coin on it to sort out these two issues. I am budgeting about $3K, don't want to do the job twice.

Have a look at either the fm cross flow or the track speed engineering radiators.

Stolen from USA site regarding cooling:

Correctly placed bonnet vents
Full coverage undertray
Radiator core 100% sealed for air leakage around it
Coolant reroute
Oil cooler
Trans cooler
Diff cooler
Coolant temp sensor at back of head
Heater bypass with restrictor
19psi Koyo/Stant rad cap
Safeties built in to ECU (overboost, EGT, WB02, coolant pressure, coolant temp etc)
Heat shielding for heater hoses, master cylinder, trans tunnel
Proper tune for WOT/peak boost
No drag/lift inducing cooling holes in vain attempt to stop overheating

sailaholic wrote:Have a look at either the fm cross flow or the track speed engineering radiators.

Thanks for the info.....the T/Speed unit looks the goods, just not sure how the A/C would be affected in summer with only running one fan.

Looks like FM X-flow with the S2 cooling kit might be a better option ?

Interested to hear from people's own experiences....

Regarding the clutch, i recently upgraded to a Exedy Cushioned Button for my ~180rwKW NA8 and feels like a heavy duty for take up, and pedal feel.
This is for my daily dríven NA8 and was around $650 iirc.

Thanks for the feedback....

I am seriously considering the FM Stage 2 sprung organic... 478NM about 2.5X standard.

949racing twinplate would be ideal if they do a sprung version, I notice they don't do the organic either in the T/P...not sure how well it would work on the street ? I had Triple Plate in my PRB and that was a challenge on the street...anyone in Sydney area using the 949 t/plate on the street in ceramic ? Would love to be a passenger and see what they are like.

Hmm weird. They used to offer single and double plate in both organic and ceramic

I have a flywheel and clutch to suit a bp (came from an astina) PAR lightened flywheel and 6 puk 2600lbs pressure plate by Jim berry. Cost over 2500. Used for 10k or less. Only slightly heavier than a hd clutch from npc/exedy etc. Interested?

sailaholic wrote:Hmm weird. They used to offer single and double plate in both organic and ceramic

Just ceramic, sadly.....they discontinued the organic....

selaga wrote:Thanks for the feedback....

I am seriously considering the FM Stage 2 sprung organic... 478NM about 2.5X standard.

949racing twinplate would be ideal if they do a sprung version, I notice they don't do the organic either in the T/P...not sure how well it would work on the street ? I had Triple Plate in my PRB and that was a challenge on the street...anyone in Sydney area using the 949 t/plate on the street in ceramic ? Would love to be a passenger and see what they are like.

I have the 949 twin disk with organic faces on my SE. I find it quite drivable on the street as it allows a fair bit of slip. Quite noisy though. But the acceleration hands down is the best part of the combo!

in regards to cooling, I've just got a ASI 52 mm radiator and slimline fans and shroud and external oil cooler. Haven't run my car for that long yet but temps seem to be in check. Cruising yesterday, my water temp stayed well below 90 deg C. In stop start it would climb to mid 90s before dropping again in clear traffic.

If you're really worried about your temps, look into properly ducting the radiator. This will pretty much solve all your issues.

Thanks for the feedback...on the street mine is fine, only track day identified the overheating, looks like the solution for me will be multi-faceted, coolant re route, radiator, fan upgrades, shroud, ducting, water additive and oil cooler. I am going to draw the line on bonnet vents, don't want to do that, even if it means running less boost at track days.

Re the clutch pity they don't do organic any more.....

Fans won't help you on the track. Shroud / Ducting will.

If your going to do an oil cooler another option is the PWR combined oil cooler and radiator.

sailaholic wrote:Fans won't help you on the track. Shroud / Ducting will.

If your going to do an oil cooler another option is the PWR combined oil cooler and radiator.

Agreed, just looking on the www what others have done wrt ducting.........

Just had a look at the clutch online. They still sell the replacement organic clutch discs (yay for me) but they are sold out atm. I'm assuming that's why it is not listed in the drop down menu. You could always email Emilio and find out

and1 wrote:Just had a look at the clutch online. They still sell the replacement organic clutch discs (yay for me) but they are sold out atm. I'm assuming that's why it is not listed in the drop down menu. You could always email Emilio and find out

I did, they advised its a discontinued line...As luck would have it I caught up with a long lost buddy that is making similar power in his NB8B and he just ordered the FM2 clutch kit, so I will help him put it in, so we can check how it drives and handles street duties....It will replace the Exedi 5 puck/sprung centre one...he was happy with it, but it is starting to shuuder now, so it will be replaced soon.