Track spec NB 1.8 Turbo build advice

[RaceTech]

Hi all,

Need some advice please from those on here in the know of BP 1.8 turbo setup's

Recently purchased a NB track car and looking to turbo it and develop the car into a decent TimeAttack/track day toy.

It has the below mods already.

forged built engine Supertech 9.1 pistons/Argo h-beam rods/fully balanced. (Pistons are 2 sizes over std bore)
Built head. upgrade 264 cams/hd springs/over sized valves
Toda cam gears
Adaptronic ecu
ACT lightweight flywheel/Exedy HD button clutch
SE 6spd box
Kazz 1.5way LSD 4.1
Alloy radiator
water re-route
SE brakes with braided lines/slotted rotors/Hawk blue pads
Yellowspeed comp coilovers/ front and rear swaybars.
6UL 15x8 wheels

So im looking to start gathering components to turbocharge the car. Im also trying to do it on a moderate budget otherwise I would have just paid the $3700 for the AVO kit and be done with it, and Id like to put something together myself.

I want to push the car pretty hard on track so ideally looking at making approx 280+ rwhp.

So from what research I found its very common for aftermarket manifolds to crack hence most go with cast log style for strength and long service life. I purchased a new oem SE manifold from the US for $250 lastnight thinking atleast it will be strong and reliable, even if it does slightly reduce my peak hp figure.

Is there a aftermarket bolt-on stainless dump and front pipe kit available ? should I go 2.5' or 3' ?

With turbocharger options id like to keep it as responsive as possible so I was looking at either the Garrett GT2560R 320hp or GT2860R 350hp disco potato. Then I noticed there is a new model in the GTX range, GTX2860R thats basically a newly updated spec of the disco potato with billet wheel offering more response and rated at a higher 400hp. what can anyone recommend here ?

Intercooler and pipework kit available ?

Being a track car doing 6-7lap stints on semi slicks/full slicks what have most found to be the safe limit in hp before really starting to hurt gearbox's ?

Is there any big benefit in running larger 16" or 17" rims over the 15" ?

Regarding aero, it has a GV style front bar and a ebay GT 3d carbon wing, notsure if this will do the job or I should buy a APR GT200 wing instead ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated !!

Cheers !

[Magpie]

Talk to Charlie91 about turbo setup for a time attack type car he has done some serious work and possibly NitroDan (however maybe not untill you get some very specific questions and done your reasearch)...

If you go to 85 or 85.5mm you will need to check the intergrity of the block, it may even be worth it at 84.5it depends on how safe you want to be. You have not mentioned head work (apart from built head) will you be getting it flowed and building the cams to suit the flow and where you want the power?

What is your budget for all this work? This is a very important aspect that you need to know and be prepared to tell people. If you have a very small budget then get ready to be told that what you want may not be possible. When I was discussing my Natural Aspirated build people wanted to know what my budget was as this indicates potentially how serious you are.

Also how quick do you want to do the build? 1 month, 12 months etc.

[RaceTech]

Hi,

Thanks for you reply.

The mods that I have listed are what is already fitted to the car !

Thanks ;)

[davekmoore]

Spec looks great exactly as is.

If the plan is to get the car quicker round a track, how about, instead of a turbo, you spend some money on instructor and/or track time, then on R spec tyres, then on a seat and harness?

[timk]

The SE uses an IHI turbo and it isn't a T2 flange by the way...

[Hjt]

T2560r is plenty above that is overkill. The chassis does not like much more than 200 rwkw although it has been done heaps. Rumor is gearbox does not like 300+ hp.

Turbo cars cost a lot more in upkeep and maintenance.

[RaceTech]

Davekmoore
It currently has R spec Tyres, race seat and harness, full cage ect all the safety gear.

timk and Hjt
Thanks, this is more the info I'm after ... Tim you say the SE manifold is not a T2 flange, but how do all the prod sports cars run a GT2560R SP turbo on there factory manifolds ?
Is there a adapter plate required to convert the bolt pattern ?

I've been told most front running 2b prod sports cars make about 200rwkw and they all seem to have to run the GT2560R turbo and oem manifold/dump for class rules.

[RaceTech]

Also Hjt when you say turbo cars cost alot more in maintenance what exactly do they wear out more ?

I realize for someone doing 1hr and 300km enduro races that a turbo car would really hurt equipment more than NA due to the extra load on components and a shitload more heat.
But for someone doing sprints/TimeAttack events 6-8lap heats it shouldn't really be any different ?

The car currently make 120rwkw in N/A form.

[deviant]

Put simply, More speed and power = more load on the car.

At my local circuit (Barbagallo near Perth) my NA NB8B hits a peak of about 170kmh which has to be pulled down to about 90kmh for the next corner, my old 200RWBHP NA would do 200-210kmh and my old 250RWBHP NA race car would do 230kmh but cornering speed would stay roughly the same.....all that power has to get to the road and then all that speed has to be controlled and removed at the next corner.

Tyres and brake pads cop a flogging and can be eaten at a ferocious rate.
It will use a heap of fuel and need constant oil changes and fluid flushes.
You need to be diligent with nut and bolt checks after events, stuff works loose quickly or can crack especially in a caged car that vibrates and doesn't flex to soak up some loads.
The transmission has to put up with a lot of loads going through it.

[RaceTech]

Does anyone know what is involved in bolting a Garrett GT2560R turbo onto my SE manifold ?

It's off a Mazdaspeed miata in the US but I would think Aus/US models would both share the same spec turbocharger.

Thanks !

[Lokiel]

I'm sending you into the "Lion's Den" but you NEED to visit http://www.miataturbo.net and do a lot more research on there, otherwise you're just getting spoon-fed here with very small bites.

WARNING: Read the FAQ first and use the Search facility since your questions have already been asked MANY, MANY times and they will tear you apart if you don't. Having said that, they're the best source of aftermarket turbo information for an MX5 since there are a lot of guys running proven, high-powered setups.

Also, TrackSpeed Engineering don't recommend using pistons greater than 84.0mm for high-powered turbo systems since it leaves the cylinder walls potentially too thin.

[emexv]

The Garrett turbo wont fit the SE manifold. You need an SP manifold for the Garrett. Flying Miata and Begi both make a cast manifold to suit the Garrett Turbo pattern. You are doing the right thing asking questions early, unfortunately this one was a little late. Also the guys are right. If you atart pushing the 200kw mark then it doesn't matter if you're only doing sprints....it will cost you. I am not trying to put you off, I have a modded SE track car, and am talking from experience, it is a massive learning curve. Just be prepared to part with money more readily than a normally aspirated car....because you will.

[RaceTech]

Thanks for the advice ;)

OK so I jumped the gun with the manifold, it's forsale now in the classified thread on here.

My bigger concern now is more so with the built block as the Supertech forged pistons are the biggest they do 2.5 oversize..

So possibly my options here are either to go turbo and replace the block OR bolt some ITB's on and leave the engine mods to that and start looking at reduced weight and aero..

I've got another car thats a highly modded Lotus so the whole idea with the MX5 purchase was to enjoy more track time on a cheaper scale and not have the worry of destroying my baby
I'd also like to try drive Bathurst at some stage..

[Magpie]

bolt some ITB's

Again this is not cheap, however there are a few people who has purchased a complete Jenvey setup and others that have built them from sctrach. What is your budget?

Just be prepared to part with money more readily than a normally aspirated car....because you will.

I will disagree with this statement as a serious NA engine will not come as cheap as a turbo engine. The cheapest power you can get is turbo hence why everybody goes that path (my thought on the subject).

[deviant]

I have no idea of your driving history but the car sounds like it is pretty well developed and would be making good power as it is.

A proper race car takes many hours of driving to really get the absolute maximum from especially if it is highly developed. I think you should get more seat time and really learn to get the most from it...you might be surprised by just how quick it can go.