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Hey looking to bolt on a turbo what do i ned to get what do people suggest?

My car runs a Garrett T28 turbo absolutely no lag whatsoever and is good for up to about 300hp.

Having said that I would recommend finding someone else who has done the footwork.

You are never going to get your money back if you decide to sell your turbo mx5.

Having a turbo always works out to be more expensive than what you may calculate. Getting

the right tune, overheating problems, damage to various hoses from heat, aftermarket engine

management systems not always doing everything standard engine management system does.

Expect to become very friendly with your tyre dealer.

Don't get me wrong love my turbo but there are a lot of headaches along the way.

Cheers Novice1

Take at least 3 months to research your project, go to miataturbo.net forum and read the sticky notes.
You will then know what your getting into.
If you are short on hand skills or automotive know how, then you better make friends with the kit supplier and installer as well as your bank manager. You will need a few visits back to the installer after its fitted to get it right.
If this is your daily drive and you absolutely need it to get to work etc, find an alternative before you go down the turbo track.
In saying all of the above, dont be put off. If you are just trying to find out which size turbo to fit, then in general most go with the T2560 or a T28.
A small turbo will give you quick boost but runs out at the top end, so final ultimate power is not reached, but the initial aceleration is good.
A larger turbo will have some lag (generally not too much) but will give you the full blow at top speed and greater power.
If you have an unrealistic budget you wont get too far because this is a costly exercise. Do it all yourself and maybe it will cost you $2000 if you use a china turbo, but put a garrett ball bearing turbo on it and its going to be closer to $3000.
If you are looking at kits on ebay because the AU$ is up against the US$, they are never complete, and need to have a lot of other parts to finish them off.

Or....save yourself all the drama and cost and buy a SE or a SP...

what boyracer says. saves you any potential engineering headaches.

if you're pushing big power, might need to change your gearbox too (probably to an SE) and saving a bit of coin on the side for a possible rebuild of the bottom end of your engine.

So i work as an apprentice mechanic and will do all the work myself with my boss so this is the plan and questions please feel free to tell me im an idiot it this is wrong.

My budget will be $3000 dollars no more.

I'd like a small but good turbo.. (does anyone know what to get?)(and price?)
The manifold does anyone know where to get one or what you part name is?(price?)
A small intercooler... (does anyone know what to get?)(price?)
And hoses and larger Cam gasket for the compression(where to get them?)(price?)

Thanks so much for any help

Mark.Pedlow wrote:larger Cam gasket for the compression

saboteur wrote:

Mark.Pedlow wrote:larger Cam gasket for the compression

The larger cam cover gasket lowers the compression.

Oh the old decompressing cam gasket...didn't they use those on MGs??

Available from shops that stock left handed screwdrivers and hammers, as well as striped paint and long weights (waits).

Mark.Pedlow wrote:The larger cam cover gasket lowers the compression.

What you meant to say was, "a decompression plate" which lowers compression by increasing the distance between the block (and TDC of the pistons) and the head. They "replace" the cylinder head gasket. They're a half arsed way of lowering compression. They do lower compression, but it's very difficult to determine before so, by how much. Do it properly and use lower compression pistons. The added edges within the combustion chamber as a result of adding a decomp plate can also add to the possibility of pinging. They're an ugly "solution"

As for the OP's questions, mostly covered by others, but there is more to it than you seem to have considered. Regardless of your mechanical abilities, you will need parts, which if you do it well, will be more than $3k in total, even at trade prices. If you can weld, DIY the ex manifold (wazman on here has a good topic in the garage section showing how he did it) and also the dump pipe, and possibly more. Same with intercooler piping if you fit one in stage 1. You've mentioned a "small intercooler" - you need a free flowing, efficient intercooler. Don't buy based on dimensions, research this well. BEGI components are good, you won't go far wrong with them. Don't skimp on the turbo - those Chinese ones are cheap for a reason! A decent Garrett second hand one (suitably sized) will be better. Nissan 180SX's use a Garrett T25G which is a good turbo, and not a bad size for MX5 engines. I've picked these up in the past for as little as $50, and that one was perfect! Engine management will make or literally break the setup. Budget $2500 to $3k just for that, including comprehensive dyno tuning. You'll also need a stronger clutch, and my advice would be to also replace the diff with an LSD.

If you want to do it well, budget $10k, less perhaps some off that to save on labour which you do yourself. Once you've budgeted $10k, go and have a look at how many SE's are for sale for less than a change over price of $10k.... Many SE's are advertised in the low $20k's now - find one at a dealer, trade yours in, and pay much less than $10k change over. An SE will also be much easier and cheaper to insure than a highly modded NB8B.

Not trying to put you off your initial plans, just advising how it is. You won't have a good total setup for $3k. Double your budget, DIY as much as possible, use good quality used parts, and you could end up with a good reliable turbo system if done correctly.

NMX516 wrote: An SE will also be much easier and cheaper to insure than a highly modded NB8B..

I have to slightly disagree with this, Ive had my car insured and its highly modded and as long as you do it by the book have the proof it will get insured. And mine isnt that much more , actually I know its cheaper than some people are paying for a stocker NB8B. Shop around.

BJ

bjones wrote:

NMX516 wrote: An SE will also be much easier and cheaper to insure than a highly modded NB8B..

I have to slightly disagree with this, Ive had my car insured and its highly modded and as long as you do it by the book have the proof it will get insured. And mine isnt that much more , actually I know its cheaper than some people are paying for a stocker NB8B. Shop around.

BJ

Well I assumed as he was an apprentice that he is probably aged late teens, early twenties, in which case it will be difficult.

bjones wrote:

NMX516 wrote: An SE will also be much easier and cheaper to insure than a highly modded NB8B..

I have to slightly disagree with this, Ive had my car insured and its highly modded and as long as you do it by the book have the proof it will get insured. And mine isnt that much more , actually I know its cheaper than some people are paying for a stocker NB8B. Shop around.

BJ

Did you have to go through emissions testing BJ as I thought your car was an SP?

Generally if you want it completely road legal, insurance legal the SE/SP is significantly easier. Passing emissions tests is generally considered incredibly difficult. Here's an old thread which is probaly a bit out of date now but gives you a ballpark idea of what's involved having a legal turbo conversion where insurance would cover you if you had an accident.
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=19618

Desided to flip the coin all together. im going to super charge it. im currently puttting a new clutch in because the old one at 8 years gave way completely. im going to get a jackson racing supercharger from the states and have a mate bring it over in his luggage. any comments?