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ive just hooked up an emanage blue for a '94 NA8 and it wont run.

The afm volts are wrong: 1.08v in and only 0.08v out so it wont start.
The pots are set to 3AO but i suspect this is wrong.
it wont run at all if i set the software to "MZ HW1" or "MZ HW2" but will run (just) on "MZ HW3" and MZ HW 4" but the voltage are also wrong at 1.08 in and 1.75 out.

Can anyone please confifm the correct pot settings for a '94 NA8 (JDM spec)

Also i connected the 1 Kilo ohm resistor as per the manual for the NB Hotwires, is this correct for the NA hotwires too?

also there may be a difference in where the rpm wire is??? can anyone confirm which pin number is the rpm wire?

www.miataturbo.net for all your answers.

ive asked there too.
problem is that the US cars have different wiring. The Jap spec NA8's have the same ecu plug as the 1600 Na6. but with two extra wires for the sequential injection.

there seems to be some arguement about the rpm wire.

I have trawled through hundreds of posts and got no where as many contradict each other. i just want to get hold of someone thats fitted a piggy back to a non US spec NA8.

I have also been unable to get a difinitive answer as to whether the resistor needs to be used on the NA hot wire maf as it does on the NB hot wire.

4sfed5 wrote:problem is that the US cars have different wiring. The Jap spec NA8's have the same ecu plug as the 1600 Na6. but with two extra wires for the sequential injection.

there seems to be some arguement about the rpm wire.

i just want to get hold of someone thats fitted a piggy back to a non US spec NA8.

I have also been unable to get a difinitive answer as to whether the resistor needs to be used on the NA hot wire maf as it does on the NB hot wire.

I think you'll find the pre early '95 US NA8 (OBD1) also had the same ECU plug as the NA6, but don't know if they also had the two extra wires. I've got a Unichip piggyback fitted to my '93 NA8 BPF6 ECU. FWIW:

Black wire from Unichip to red loom wire leading away from ECU;

White from Uni to red from 6th pin from left in ECU top row of pins;

Blue from Uni to white loom wire leading away from ECU;

Grey from Uni to white from 11th pin from left in ECU top row;

Red from Uni to T junction with red/white from 11th pin from left in ECU bottom row of pins;

Brown from Uni to T junction with black from 13th pin from left in bottom row;

Orange from Uni to T junction with red/black from 7th pin from left in top row.

thanks for that,
i should be able to work something out from what you posted, are those loom wires correct? the ones on my loom have a main colour with a stripe. I.E black with white stripe. etc.

Just rechecked notes I'd made a while ago & colour of loom wires is as per notes, which only show the two multi-coloured wires referred to below. If there were other multi-coloured wires that were visible I should have noted it at the time, as I was pretty careful about accuracy. Can recheck ECU & loom if need be.

UPDATE!

ok so the issue was the resistor that i put in the same as the NB cars stopping everything from working even though it showed no error codes!

So I can now say that the wiring for a (JDM spec) 1800 NA obd1 car is THE SAME as the 1600 NA except for the extra injector wires in "2Y" and "2Z" on the ecu plug to run the injection sequentially.all the other wires are in the same place as the 1600 for all major engine functions.

the pot settings were 3AO.
The 1K resistor IS NOT required

hopefully this helps others trying to sort out thier pre-95 1800's

this means that with only minor mods you could convert your flapper door 1600 to run with the 1800 ecu, maf and sequential injection!(runs off to find a maf and 1800 ecu)

4sfed5 wrote:this means that with only minor mods you could convert your flapper door 1600 to run with the 1800 ecu, maf and sequential injection! (runs off to find a maf and 1800 ecu)

good to hear you got it sorted - very interesting - there might be a run on some 1.8 bits - tks for sharing!

Great news, could I ask you to take some photos and type everything up in a new thread in the tech archives?

I have a UK 1997 Mk1 (NA) 1.8 and have problems fitting an emanage blue.

I cant get the MAF connected, the white wire on the emanage is supposed to go to the sensor and the green to the ecu, all the jumpers are set at the factory settings. Here is the air flow wiring diagram with the ECU pin outs.



As you can see there are only really 2 ECU pin outs to choose from, 3K is the air temp and 3B is where I need to connect.

I cant connect my emanage to the MAF wiring on my ECU. I have tried setting the pots to 3-A-0, 3-A-3 and 3-A-C. I have even tried fitting the 1K resistor just in case that was the issue but, I still cant get my car to start with the MAF plugged into the emanage. I have even tried a new Emanage unit just in case mine was at fault.

Every thing runs okay with a Greddy 3bar sensor fitted and I can tune using that, but I cant understand why the engine wont fire up when the MAF is wired in.

Can anyone help?