How to turbo your NA for $2000.

[NitroDann]

So this came in the mail, one from Gosford and one from the States.

This is 1000 bucks all up, the new Megasquirt PnP 2 for na6, an IAT bung and sensor, the cables and software, and the unifilter, which is much larger than I expected..



Dann

[NitroDann]

updates.

This is the o2 bung, where the wideband screws in for tuning and monitoring. This is before the cat but at least a foot preferably 2 after the turbo, the heat will kill it if its too close.


And the AIT (air intake temp) bung. The megasquirt ditches the factory airflow meter and instead uses manifold air pressure (MAP) and AIT along with the tuning tables to determine load and fueling, so it needs the AIT screwed in here. This goes after the intercooler, and somewhere that wont heatsoak (so not in the inlet manifold.)


Just faced these flanges on a fine linisher with a brand new belt, I ran the tap through 1 more time to ensure its nice and clean.


This is a grade 12.9 High tensile Steel bolt, 10x1.5mm thread size. Im cutting the threads off it, to use as turbo studs. the small bottle is Resbond, which is like loctite but for turbo temperatures. This will hold the studs in the manifold. Loctite releases with heat so will not work here. Please note that most turbos need to be drilled to fit the bigger 10mm studs (stock is usually 8mm) AND note that these will NOT work on a track car, the heat will soften them and they will stretch you MUST use Inconel and locking hardware in a track car.


Im threading them in using the double nut method. this is 2 nuts tightened into each other so secure them to the thread and then wound in with the top nut.


Use proper exhaust nuts, flanged and serated flanges.


The wastegate solution. Since this turbo has been clocked the wastegate canister will no longer fit, so in this case I've welded the wastegate can to this exhaust clamp and will clapm it to the front of the turbo. Wastegate cans must be fixed very solidly for good boost control so make sure its very stiff.


This is the wastegat can rod and the wastegate lever arm. Note that wastegate rod naturally doesnt quite make it onto the arm, this means when I stretch it on there will be a millimetre or 2 preload, this is important to ensure the wastegate flapper inside seals properly when closed.


Here it is on. Note that it needs a small E clip to secure it.


How it sits on the turbo.


And with a small temporary air filter.


Dann

[gslender]

Looking good!

[NitroDann]

Ive fitted the wastegate actuator can, and need to test. Im using the shop air compressor, be sure to unplug the air compressor and bleed it down to a sensible turbo level of pressure, I used 20psi.

Into the actuator can we blow some air and check a good range of motion, and smooth operation of the wastegate.







Dann

[NitroDann]

A quick note on the return fitting, you can see the internal angled surfaces it seals with, I will however use some RTV as shown.



And the completed hotside in all its tiny weenie zero lag low hp high torque glory lol




Dann

[NitroDann]

Its very dark but dead centre you can see the oil return hose fitted to the return barb in the sump and clamped, dead centre.



This plug on the back of the head with a 5mm hex head is what we will use to feed the turbo.


Here is a nice cheap hardline made at a local brake shop for 30 bucks. Ive bent it for a trial fit already. Next to the screwdriver is the plug we just removed, its 1/8th gas threaded, which is a tapered thread.
The top end of the hardline has the fitting for the turbo, and the opposite end has a fitting that threads into the 1/8th gas adaptor, next to it. the adaptor goes into the head first, and then the rest screws on.


Here is the adaptor fitted.


And the whole lot fitted up, with its temporary air filter.


Dann

[jules]

ha, stage 1 really isn't as big or scary or expensive as everyone makes out huh.
Plus whats the point of a turbo car if you don't have a f*ck off front mount or a bov that goes pppssshhh

[emily_mx5]

Hey Dann, do you have any info on engineering this kind of set up?
I assume stock cat and exhaust helps here, like the AVO set up I believe.
Looks great

[Miicrew]

Your right so much hate! haha people need to believe more

Saw the an example today, for $2k well worth it!

Most importantly it did actually work!, way to make the mx even more fun.

Thank mate!

[NitroDann]

Any time.

As the above post points out it starts it idles it drives and it makes boost in any gear at any moment. Silly torque.

Ill get a new post up but its like 230 check the post sent time. Just got the engine in paul fs na6 we built and its great. Hauls arse.

Dann

[gslender]

Do you think a kit or similar could be done for folks whom are interested?

G

[PaulF]

I drove this yesterday when I was up at Dann's workshop and damn, this is going to be a fun setup once it's tuned. Even on a base map with small throttle inputs it's super responsive and so much faster than N/A. My response after driving it a couple of km was "F*ck!! Now I have to start saving money again!"

[skypilot]

Hey well done Dann,

I notice the distinct lack of apologies from all the wallys who doubted you, it's really nice to see a young bloke thinking like a race car engineer rather than a doof doof crap parts add on specialist with a sleeve tat and baseball cap. Maybe it's time for you to buy a tube bender for CDW/CDS and a kick arse lathe for aero, suspension and general mods. The rally,road and offroad world are always after people to do little odd jobs who offer creativity and honesty.

Well done mate

Justin

[Sean]

Hey well done Dann,

I notice the distinct lack of apologies from all the wallys who doubted you, it's really nice to see a young bloke thinking like a race car engineer rather than a doof doof crap parts add on specialist with a sleeve tat and baseball cap. Maybe it's time for you to buy a tube bender for CDW/CDS and a kick arse lathe for aero, suspension and general mods. The rally,road and offroad world are always after people to do little odd jobs who offer creativity and honesty.

Well done mate

Justin

I think there was only one person who said it couldn't be done.

Dann's answer is he is charging the customer $2k, so it can be done for $2k.

Add up the parts list, not including labour (to build the bits or fit) or consumables you're pushing close to the $2k even if you're re-using the header flange and a $100 turbo. If I wanted to do a $2k turbo and couldn't call upon my contacts, I'd be giving Dann $2k rather than trying to do it myself for that sort of money.

I'd argue that this isn't what everyone else bangs on about costing significantly more, but again, at $2k it'll represent reasonable value to most people.

[NitroDann]

It owes me WELL under 1500.

And on that note, its about time for a final post.

Ill get onto it tonight

I think there was only one person who said it couldn't be done.

MANY said it couldnt be done on the earlier thread about turbocharging costs.

Dann