Post your turbo / supercharged setup

[DanZig]

Bare minimum to get it back on the road but runs great. Will of course be adding FMIC ect as time permits.

[Rorge]

While I'm reassembling the engine I completely cut down my manifold and rewelded the whole thing adding some strength and better curves!

MMMmmmMM Carbide Burrs...
IMG_0345 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr


IMG_0494 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr
IMG_0455 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr
IMG_0456 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr
IMG_0501 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr
IMG_0499 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr
IMG_0496 by georgerbyrne, on Flickr

[speed]

A good read. Am surprised there is not more cars in this thread.


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[jp928]

turbo2.jpg

Recently built a Clubman based on NA8 drivetrain. Added an AVO Garrett turbo kit to the stock engine. 2.5" pipes everywhere (own make), FMIC,2.5" muffler 30" long outside the bodywork, because we could. Microtech ECU in piggy back mode, with a 5th injector for extra fuel.

Tuner gave us:-

176.7 Ft/lbs @ 5900rpm, 150ft/lbs from 3400 up. (239Nm, 203Nm)
215.4 hp @7200, 100hp from 3400 up (162 Kw, 74.5Kw)
Boost starts at 5.5psi @ 3100, peaking @ 7.8psi from 5500 to red line.

At a dry weight of 750Kg, it goes VERY well indeed!

jp

[Scorpius2501]

1.8L NB8B with the SVT engine
252HP on pump fuel.
SP Manifold and Dump pipe.
GT2560R turbo
3 inch exhaust
custom 2" FMIC piping
ebay CX racing intercooler
Uniflow Air filter
RX8 Yellow injectors
Toyota 1MZ-FE COPs

[Daffy]

Hey all, I've signed onto mx5cartalk a while ago, this is my 1st post though. I didn’t want to put pen to paper until I completed the engine build for my velocity red 2005 NB SE turbo and have something worthwhile to post. The 1st work on this car was a couple of years ago, bolt ons and chip upgrade netting 153kw, (the dyno power run is on Chiptorque's YouTube channel).

This current build is almost done now. This build was around a 2 year exercise in finance stretching, frustration and pulling my hair out several times. Turbo's, fuel systems, internals, etc were chopped and changed to come up with this current set up, and yes, I have bits left over that will appear on the classified section! Before going on though, I do have to thank the following for the mass of help and work they provided to put this thing together that's been dubbed "The Problem Child".
 
Engineer work by Ben Simpson, Pheonix engineering and Mechanical work by Darren Syme, I&L Autos, Kirra QLD.
Exhaust/air intake and dump pipe by Dave Wood at Discount Mufflers, Chinderah NSW.
Custom built clutch by Jim Berry, Race Clutch, Stanthorpe QLD and tuned by the brilliant Matty Spry at PITS, Molendiner QLD.
And of course, my beautiful wife, for resisting the temptation to de-vein my genitals throughout this on again off again build.
 
Set up;
Haltech elite 1500, X4 microtech igniter.
 
Garrett GT2871R ball bearing turbo. All braided lines. (Less lag and more response sooner people- a bigger turbo would net more power and big boasting numbers, but I prefer to be entertained throughout an entire show, and not just wait to the end to see a good performance!)
 
CP Forged pistons and spool rods.
ACL race main bearings.
ACL race conrod bearings, heavy duty valve springs, ported head and engineer modified air intake, balanced rotating assembly, refaced and polished valves to improve flow.
Loads of other internal stuff has been done by Ben. The water pump was relocated to the rear of the motor to solve the famous BP rear cylinders heat issues associated with the front rear engine set up. 
 
Solid billet cams
By Clive Cams Victoria.
cam specs;
228 degrees @ 50 thou
271 degree advertised
370 thou lift (9.5mm)
113 degree LSA.
 
Flying Miata big flex fuel kit (made to full return), 1000cc injectors. 
 
Custom built heavy duty clutch built by Jim Berry.
 
64mm solid billet throttle body (skunk2).
 
(FAB9 brand) cold plug heavy duty ignition system for +16lb boost. Platinum plugs gapped @ .60, NGK (R) pfr7b plugs.
 
3 inch custom race exhaust and dump pipe, built by Dave Wood. Custom cold air intake also built by Dave.
 
Big PWR Intercooler 2.5 inch outlets, (Dave's custom piping throughout, Darren's brilliance at shoe horning it in).
 
Setrab oil cooler.
 
The 6 speed box, torsen diff, brakes and bilstien coil overs are all SE / MSM factory kit and are holding up well.

The dyno at PITS reads the numbers as;
327.5hp on e85 (244.2kw) 22psi.
256hp on 98PULP (190.8kw on a safe tune) 18psi.
(Matt informs me his dyno reads under. Others have told me that his dyno is 10% under- it yes, it does feel more like 350+hp).

My "Problem Child" was built to be a daily driver with some quality get up and go and I finally think we have got there- It will handle peakhour stop start driving just as well as track days and leaves some heavy haulers boasting big numbers in dust.
I did consider the v8 swap, but I wanted to stay true to what the car was born with and its potential, that being a well balanced proper sports car, that is responsive and a pleasure to drive, powered by a rock solid 1.8 four pot screamer that hauls ass.

[bear2230]

Great stuff Daffy. I'm loving every bit of it.

[Daffy]

Cheers bear2230! A few more pics-

[smy0003]

Wow! More power than an SS Commodore and you wouldn't suspect a thing front the outside.

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[Daffy]

Cheers smy0003. The sleeper exterior is only given away by hood vents and exhaust note for now, but I will be changing the racingheart rims for most likely avanti storm 15x8 and sticky rubber. The current bridgestone re002's on 17x7's cant hold the traction anymore, not that its a bad thing! A cage/hoops will take a little more away from the sleeper look as well a bit later down the line.

[IanR]

Thanks for sharing your setup (finally), Love it! Plenty of questions...but just on the bonnet vent position, what made you put them there as opposed to between the rad and block?

[Juicy HiC]

That is one seriously fast SE. Great read.

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[Daffy]

Hey IanR,
RE the vent position, I checked a few vents available on line before deciding on what to buy. The under bonnet temps were getting up there, so the vent’s purpose was to get the heat out from the engine bay.
I already had heaps of airflow coming in after removing the engine bay plastic tray guard. We also angled the rad, tilting the bottom of it back a few degrees to get more air to it, due to the size of the intercooler.
looking on line at a few pics and measurements of the under bonnet pressure spots, I needed to find a compromise of good placing to extract the hot air, as well as keeping the integrity of the bonnet strong by not cutting into the more solid bracings.
The resulting end placement does what its meant to do pretty well, as well as keeping some style and strength to it.
Some of the vents I seen for sale on line looked pretty full on, making the bonnet look like the power head of a bagless vacuum cleaner and was well and truly not in tune with the sleeper look, others looked cheap, like riveted roof grates off a 1930’s black brick house!
The vents I got were $100 for the pair from Ernicks Fiberglass, Taren Point NSW.
cheers. (ps thanks Juicy HiC, quick she is!!)

[NitroDann]

[plohl]

^lolololol

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