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Since my front pads were due for a change i thought i would take some piccs and go through the steps to changing the front pads. I only threw some cheapie pads on as i have some DBA slotted's and EBC geenies coming after chrissy.

Tools Needed
- 14mm Spanner
- Gclamp or similar
- Jack
- Wheel brace
- Beer
- Brake pads


#1: goto the fridge and pick out your favourite brewski. (corona was my only choice as it was all i had in the fridge)


#2: crack open that beer and head down to the car. Jack the car up ( i did one side at a time) Jack it up enough to be able to take wheel off and be a comfortable height to work



#3: Take cap off the master cyliner to allow for the fluid to rise when the piston gets pushed back in


#4: Pull the wheel off to reveal your work area for the next 15 minutes


#5: Have another drink and then grab your 14mm spanner and undo the bottom caliper bolt. remove the bolt and put somewhere safe


#6: After removing the bolt rotate the caliper on the top mount bolt and wire it out of the way


#7: Now remove the pads. quite easy. possibly pry them away from the disc with a small flatblade screwdriver. once the pad is out the top pad mounting spring may fall down. this will have to be installed prior to the new pads going in. (check pic 2)



#8: Install new pad (oppisite of removing)

Make sure you install the wear indicator (supplied with the pads) onto the inside pad at the lower end


#9: Stand back and admire your new pads (and maybe grab another beer)


#10: Now comes time to push the piston back into the caliper. Get your clamp and an old pad and start pushing the piston back in

What it looks like when piston is back in the caliper


#11: Install the caliper and tighten up the mount bolts. Get some brake cleaner and give it all a clean.


#12: Install wheel and master cyliner cap. You may have to remove some brake fluid to get to correct level.

#13: take car around the block (leave the beer at home) to bed in the brakes. I followed the following
- 3 hard stops at 40km/h
- 2 hard stops at 80km/h
- 2 hard stops at 100km/h

the brakes will have a fair amount of heat in them now and should have been bed in by now. The pedal should feel awesome!

Now go home park her and have another beer


Hope this helps some people that are going to change their pads at home. This was the first time i had done it and it took 15 mins max each side (30min all up). I will modify this doco when i get the new rotors and pads.

Enjoy

Regie

(mods feel free to edit and move this doco into the tech doco section, i thought it may get more of a look at here)

nice write up nice pics.

wun911 wrote:nice write up nice pics.

+1

Will be used when I get around to doing mine

Nice write up but it only applies to the front brakes. Dont use a G-clamp to push the clinder back into the rear caliper or you'll damage the caliper. Use the allan screw adjuster at the rear of the caliper covered by the 14mm bolt to wind the piston back into the caliper.

I noticed you put TRW pads on. I just fitted a set of these to the front of my NA that I use for track days. I thought I would give them a try as a few guys in the rally scene swear by them and for the small amount they cost I had nothing to loose. Go out and get the REAL hot to bed them in, and I reckon you will be surprised how good they are. They stood up really well at Phillip Island on the weekend.

BTW good write up.

fattima wrote:I noticed you put TRW pads on. I just fitted a set of these to the front of my NA that I use for track days. I thought I would give them a try as a few guys in the rally scene swear by them and for the small amount they cost I had nothing to loose. Go out and get the REAL hot to bed them in, and I reckon you will be surprised how good they are. They stood up really well at Phillip Island on the weekend.

BTW good write up.

ahh sweet as. these pads were only thrown in bacuse my std ones were just about metal on metal. im getting a new front brake setup late jan/ early feb. yeah will see how they go anyways

Garry wrote:Nice write up but it only applies to the front brakes. Dont use a G-clamp to push the clinder back into the rear caliper or you'll damage the caliper. Use the allan screw adjuster at the rear of the caliper covered by the 14mm bolt to wind the piston back into the caliper.

Yeah, fronts are the easy ones. The rear's are a bit more interesting if you don't have pictures.

I tried the clamp method on them, but it didn't give. Luckily I knew about the alan key thingo round the back, so when it wouldn't give, I didn't push it any harder. Hopefully I haven't done any damage, although so far braking seems fine. Still need to do it at high speed to do the final bed in, so I guess that'll be the final test.

Otherwise, good write up. I contemplated writing up my brake pad change, but my hands got too dirty and I didn't wanna go touching the camera with my grubby paws.

marcusus wrote:

Garry wrote:Nice write up but it only applies to the front brakes. Dont use a G-clamp to push the clinder back into the rear caliper or you'll damage the caliper. Use the allan screw adjuster at the rear of the caliper covered by the 14mm bolt to wind the piston back into the caliper.

Yeah, fronts are the easy ones. The rear's are a bit more interesting if you don't have pictures.

I tried the clamp method on them, but it didn't give. Luckily I knew about the alan key thingo round the back, so when it wouldn't give, I didn't push it any harder. Hopefully I haven't done any damage, although so far braking seems fine. Still need to do it at high speed to do the final bed in, so I guess that'll be the final test.

Otherwise, good write up. I contemplated writing up my brake pad change, but my hands got too dirty and I didn't wanna go touching the camera with my grubby paws.

youre very soft Marcus my camera is now covered in brake dust haha. im guessing the rears will be up for replacement soon so ill get the camera back out and write up a thing for the rears.
oh and i still have those 2 vids to edit. watch the wakefield secton

Regie wrote:im guessing the rears will be up for replacement soon so ill get the camera back out and write up a thing for the rears.

I assume you're using the miata.net guide as a reference? It's a good starting point, but not quite as clear as what you've got up here, so it'll be good when you do the rears too.

marcusus wrote:

Regie wrote:im guessing the rears will be up for replacement soon so ill get the camera back out and write up a thing for the rears.

I assume you're using the miata.net guide as a reference? It's a good starting point, but not quite as clear as what you've got up here, so it'll be good when you do the rears too.

naa no guide. just doing it off my head. but yeah i have herd that there is an allen key for the rears before (its a simialr setup to my previous car)

Haha I also took photos and was gonna do a write up when I changed my pads and discs. It however took me 5 hrs all up....something to do with discs being rusted to the hubs...

Hey guys,

Found this on the net.

Might want to sticky it

http://www.atomineer.com/redmx5/mod_rearbrakes.html

Hethro

Thanks for the info. It helped me easily remove the pads and the discs. I now need to get the disc machined but it may have gone too far and should be replaced. Where is a good place in Melbourne to get new pads and discs? Akbar.

I ended up getting new discs and pads through a friend at a very good price. Doing the brakes was the easiest thing I have done. Thanks for the notes and pics posted by Regie 8 Dec 08. Akbar.

Good to hear you got it sorted easily & economically. You would have got a better response to your question if you'd asked under "MX5 Wheels, Suspension, Brakes & Tyres" on the front page, as not many forumites expect questions under "MX5 Technical Guides".