QR Street Sprints - Tips or hints for a new guy

[toppertee]

Davekmoore i am on the same page as you but i hope i have got cooling sorted: New water pump, New hoses (mx5 mania kit), New electric fans x2 (with override on/off switch in cab) plus looking for a bigger ally radiator to go in. (any opinions on this? PWR do one also mx5 mania have one too that i am looking at)

Have a look at ASI rads on ebay, heaps cheaper. I used one in my mx5 no problems, (ran a full track day with two drivers)Running one in my skyline and it's good as gold.

[Magpie]

I have a PWR and now need to make a duct so that all the available air is going through it and not around it. So consider the ASI suggestion. Also it may be worth considering new coolant etc and remove any air bubbles from the cooling system before replacing a heap of parts. Your propossed solution may cause other problems (as I and others have found out).

[Benn]

thanks for info guys.
I did a coolant flush and replaced thermostat before heading out last time. From what i could tell we also got most of the air out as well when re filling radiator and hoses.
I might pull the AC out and go from there. Needs a new water-pump as its due for its service. Figure while i am there might change radiator hoses (ones in it are pretty old and tied looking).

[toppertee]

I have a PWR and now need to make a duct so that all the available air is going through it and not around it. So consider the ASI suggestion. Also it may be worth considering new coolant etc and remove any air bubbles from the cooling system before replacing a heap of parts. Your propossed solution may cause other problems (as I and others have found out).

My motor wasn't working as hard as yours Yours is a little more worked than most.

But I never needed any ducting, or re-route.

All I did was, stat, hoses, water pump and rad. Then jack the front wheels up in the air, so the to of the rad is at the highest point, run with the cap off, with a funnel out the top of the inlet of the rad, to get the air bubbles. I never saw more than 100 degs with my motor.

Just a question, are you getting any over flow out of the cap? If so you may want to check your head gasket.

[sailaholic]

I think the main problem was PWR can do sh*t work unless you get the A team (f1, high end time attack) but charge a lot regardless.

The radiator they made didn't match the drawing and the drawing dimensions didn't match the dimensions required on the car.


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[Benn]

no overflow which was a plus. The temp gauge was really only 85% up there was not on the high stop, lucky i saw it when i did otherwise i would have cooked the engine for sure.

The thing was it only did it once on the middle run of the day. I missed a session to let it cool (good 30mins) and then went back out and it didn't overheat again. it did run above normal operating temp but figured it was due to driving hard.

I made a point to drive it when i could this week to check temps and it has not exceeded the normal operating temp on the road, or after some spirited driving.

[Magpie]

Again it sounds like an issue only at the track so I would look at the amount of air going around the radiator. Look at Danny's build for the logic of this. Danny's car has a fan, but it is only for when the car is at idle however there is no way for the air to bypass his radiator it must go through! This is my problem at the moment, air is spilling around the radiator and whilst it is great on the road it starts to shows its limitations at the track.

However make sure your pump and the rest of the system is in good condition as well.

[Benn]

will do magpie, thanks again for advise. I have an ok idea of what needs to happen but its good to get a bit of feedback and learn a little more about what i should do.