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I thought I’d share my work in progress as i scoured forums high and low for ideas and learn how to do things myself when starting this car and thought
it would be appropriate to share for any future modders doing the same.

I am by no way a mechanic but iam happy to attempt new things and learn as i find this Hobby (if that’s the right word) therapeutic and a challenge.


This is the first version which was finished back in late 2015 if my memory is correct.

Original build was

- BC coilovers
- strut braces front and rear
- T2 diff with 3.63 gears and braced arms
- manualised steering rack
- GT2871R
- Manley rods
- wiseco pistons 8.7:1 which was a mistake i now know
- ARP everything
- ACL race bearing
- BE pump
- supermiata balancer
- ported head
- +1mm os supertech valves
- 264 kelford cam
- supertech valve springs and retainers
- begi inlet manifold with mustang throttle
- 1000cc ID injectors
- supermiata fuel rail
- adjustable cam gears
- AVO manifold ported and port matched
- 500X270 intercooler
- 3"fabricated dump
- 3"exhaust system
- 6 speed manual

Making 299.5 rear hub kw's at Chequered Tuning i cannot recommend Trent enough he is a master of his craft

Version 2

- NA Jatco Auto
- B&M shifter
- 2800 stall converter
- Mickey Thompson semi slicks

I had a $900 six speed transmission last 45 minutes one night and i was fed up so i went through the process of converting the car to Auto and found someone to build the factory transmission to date the car has run a best of 10.6 seconds and 127mph at the drags and drives like a stock one and actually gets really good fuel economy.

t.
Version 3

So i got given a Free GTX2871R by a friend who runs a workshop in melbourne "easy upgrade direct replacement for a 2871R" no stress illjust wack it on turn the car up and chase a 9 second pass.. then it got out of hand.

Parts upgraded
- Haltech 1500
- Raceworks DBW pedal
- Bosch DBW throttle
- Skunk 2 Manifold
- fuel pressure and oil pressure sensors
- walbro 525
- 1500cc injectors
- 2 X Nitro Dann catch can
- Twist Mount 2 manifold
- 4" bellmouth intake
- cnc waterpump inlet
- Beavis engine damper brace
- carbing 3 way strut brace
- 40mm turbosmart watercooler external gate
- heatwrap and turbo beanie
- Shock works coilovers
- upgraded to NB2 dash cause of CEL light for Haltech
- plamaman clamp on throttle
- 5 bar map
- carbin diff brace
- front adjustable sway bar links
- various AN fittings and hoses

Parts to go
- Coldside pipe with Plazmaman clamp
- Haltech wideband
- Haltech Expansion box (for future transmission controls)
- wire in wheel speed sensors
- finish valve cover
- Change Shifter to a B&M black

My calculations are that i needed a 50rwkw increase to run the time i want but as i want happy witha fair few things im always looking to improve on things even by a little bi

Very nice, I saw the video FullBoost did on the car. What are the drawbacks of the wiseco pistons? I run a very similar bottom end in my build


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[quote="Eunos_Frogster"]Very nice, I saw the video FullBoost did on the car. What are the drawbacks of the wiseco pistons? I run a very similar bottom end in my build

The Wiseco's so far are good they are just noisy when cold which is why FM did there own spec with a coating

I love this build!
I will eventually look to upgrade the turbo with the GTX, you’ve given me a lot of food for thought with the one or 2 “out of hand” extras. I knew that if and when I do eventually upgrade the turbo set up in mine that there is definitely a lot more to it than a simple plug and play, expect to get a few PM’s from me . If you ever do consider going back to manual, feel free to touch base if you want to know more about the BMW/Getrag box and diff upgrade. The car looks great, and that engine bay is making me drool, brilliant!

Build looks awesone. Im considering what ECU i should use. What ECU where you running previously and how did it compare to the Haltech?

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MX5NBpsi wrote:
The Wiseco's so far are good they are just noisy when cold which is why FM did there own spec with a coating

I dont really get much noise from mine even when cold


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What options do you have for the driveline, no point having heaps of power and the driveline being the weak point...

Magpie wrote:What options do you have for the driveline, no point having heaps of power and the driveline being the weak point...

MX5NBpsi wrote:Version 2

- NA Jatco Auto
- B&M shifter
- 2800 stall converter
- Mickey Thompson semi slicks

I had a $900 six speed transmission last 45 minutes one night and i was fed up so i went through the process of converting the car to Auto and found someone to build the factory transmission to date the car has run a best of 10.6 seconds and 127mph at the drags and drives like a stock one and actually gets really good fuel economy.

I think he has the transmission solution covered

Magpie wrote:What options do you have for the driveline, no point having heaps of power and the driveline being the weak point...

The Auto is built to hold around 350rwkw but there hasn't been one behind a MX5 with that sort of power they are all turbo six's so I’m guessing i can go a little further as i won’t have as much torque as a 6.

The rear end is an unknown T2 diff's are apparently strong ive braced the diff housing and in general Autos are nicer to a driveline until you introduce things like a transbrake (which will be happening soon) but I’m hoping to modulate that with the Haltech to mitigate the shock to the driveline

Thanks for the reply.

rob_hun7 wrote:Build looks awesone. Im considering what ECU i should use. What ECU where you running previously and how did it compare to the Haltech?

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I was running a Trackspeed racing plug and play kit (wasnt even close to plug and play) which was a AEM EMS4 basic ecu.

Currently there are 2 clear choices are MS3 very good ecu and a true plug and play or a Haltech i have a friend who is a Haltech dealer so i got a cheap Elite 1500 that made the choice easy.