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Hi to those who like to get their hands dirty,
As the title suggests...................here is my story. I have used the super, super cheap one from Superwhatsies that is a clear tube with a one way valve at one end and a rubber tube at the other that fits over the bleeder nipple and it worked fine until the one way valve seized.
Yesterday I bought a vacuum system from the same place of which I thought was quite good quality for the purpose and the amount of use I have for it, BUT, the whole idea of the system is to create a vacuum but that can't be done as atmospheric pressure forces air down the bleeder nipple thread immediately evacuation of air begins and then when you crack the nipple, you get a small amount of fluid exit the brake system and a massive amount of air mixing with it to look like you have just opened a hot bottle of lemonade.
Great idea but obviously wasn't tested by the inventor.
Anyway, I took it back as it wasn't suitable for the purpose that it was promoted to do.
Tell me, was I doing something wrong??? OR is a 'high-tech' bleeder nipple required to use a vacuum system???

I don't want any 'high-tech' bleeder nipple as I use the car on the track and I don't want it turning 'low-tech' at a critical moment.

I searched here but could only find reference to a Sydchrome vacuum system but I can't see that would work either................any other suggestions please.

I've always had success with this method:
- remove the ball & spring from the one man bleeder valve.
- leave the valve housing on the clear tube, to act as a weight, & place in a clear jar.
- add brake fluid to the jar to fully cover the housing bleed hole (used fluid ok)
- mount the jar ABOVE the caliper, & slightly crack the nipple.

After a few pumps you can't suck air back in as you release the pedal. Pump until the whole tube is bubble free. It's also a good idea to release pedal slowly, & don't depress right to the floor.

I use a vacuum bleeder system, mine was a generic brand from autotools (http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/p ... 1/ATK3853B)

I first used it when I added ABS to my car and swapped all the booster/master/lines out, so had completely empty lines to bleed, as well as an empty master and ABS unit also.
Trick was to use slight trigger pressure so just enough pressure off the compressor to pull the fluid through, but not flat out as this just forced air past the tube connection to the nipple, and you couldn't tell when the bubbles from the caliper stopped.

For me this worked perfectly, and I only used 1/2 of the fluid I had bought thinking it would take forever to bleed through...

I have a vacuum bleeder and it works a treat.

DSCN3821 by Eipeip, on Flickr

Click on the picture for the video
DSCN3820 by Eipeip, on Flickr

It works almost the same as a normal brake bleed process, but can be done by one person and relies upon vacuum to 'pull' the fluid through the system as opossed to using the brake pedal to 'force' fluid through the system:
1. Attach the hose to the bleed nipple.
2. Create an initial vacuum in the bleeder
3. Crack the bleed nipple
4. Switch the vacuum bleeder over to 'suck', pull the trigger to start the process
5. Manipulate the bleed nipple to control the flow
6. Nip the bleed nipple up when happy and then release the trigger on the vacuum bleeder

Points to take note:
a. The vacuum bleeder can drain fluid very quickly, make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level.
b. Do not exceed the recommended air pressure to the bleeder (nor any other air tool for that matter).
c. Check the bleed nipples to see that they are working properly and not blocked.

An alternative method is to force fluid through from the master cylinders

Just crack the valve and put light shop air pressure into the master.

Dann

Thanks Folks for your replies.
I like the idea of applying light air pressure at the master cylinder reservoir so it's a matter of getting a reservoir cap to attach the system.
So, between now and next time I change the fluid, I'll look around for something appropriate.

Anyway, I managed to round up my neighbor to pump the pedal so I'm ready for Sandown.

If you're using a vacuum brake bleeder, you won't see a clear stream of fluid - you will see the fluid passing through along with air being sucked through the threads of the bleed nipple. You're not looking for the bubbles of air to stop.

With mine, it can suck heaps of fluid through in no time - I just nipped up the bleed nipple before turning off the air supply for the vacuum. Mine also came with a gadget that gravity feeds the master reservoir with fresh fluid, and keeps it from running dry.

To bleed my(non ABS) brakes, or to change fluid, I just use a short length of 6mm clear pvc tube with a non return valve in the end which I put into a small clear bottle with a sufficient fluid to keep the end submerged.Then just work the pedal till the fluid in the tube runs clear. The NRV i use is one used in pneumatic systems which fits 4mm nylon tube. I am unfamilar with ABS systems so am unsure if this will work there

I have the motive one, works well on the MX-5.