mx5cartalk.com

I'm going to use this thread to help doc progress on this mx5 both for myself and for anyone else interested.
I will update this first post and will run a wanted to buy thread http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=67968



I bought this 1989 na6 last weekend-i used a car trailer to get it home from a country spot. The previous owner had lost the key and the left hand rear brake had locked on -had lots of fun to get it on and off the trailer with the brake and the steering lock locked.

I'm going to use the OCAU forums for picture hosting (if you think a home theater computer can get you extra tv channels for free, or wonder how to upgrade your computer into a photo realistic gaming beast, have a look at the ocau group).
If the pics can't be seen by everyone, ill more them to another pic hoster.

anyways ill start with a few pics if the beast

http://ocau.com/pix/75xgm


http://ocau.com/pix/hyfoe


http://ocau.com/pix/nr46q


The car was last registered 7-8 years ago and i thing that was the last time it was started.

I asked the local mazda dealer if I could have the key code from the vinn code (no key came with the car), and they told me that they would have to submit it to Mazda Australia who may or may not give the code and they couldn't charge me for it so it wasnt "worth their time". So Im not to impressed with the local mazda dealer (i really like mazda cars tho).

I did find the code on the drivers side door lock which is handy to know.



the car turned over

i can't edit my own first post- weird? (annoying as I wrote alot after that, lost after edit)

with the new key the engine turned over but no go. Turned out
a) Rats had eaten the rear going loom, so no fuel pump power
b) The fuel pump had seized

I bought a new fuel pump from:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171314430816 for only $35 delivered.
The pump works very well but the supply white plastic stainer doesn't fit. The standard stainer is stuffed see:

http://ocau.com/pix/dy07x

so I cant reuse it - mazda wants $40ish for a new plastic strainer but isn't sure availability (plus im unimpressed with the local mazda at the moment, see above)
I'll go and see a fuel inject company this week to see if they have one that fits.

This car has a zippered back window - the window panel is the only stuffed part(ok the rest of it is stretched but still servicable), so does anyone sell just the rear panel? Or is it a auto auto upholstery shop thing?
see : http://ocau.com/pix/8difk
or is is just better getting a new roof?

The boot has been levered open (previous owner, no key) so I need a new boot key lock. And some panel beating of the boot lid itself (or maybe a good one from a wrecker ?) . They also stuffed the boot seal.
http://ocau.com/pix/kpgyt

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the obsession!

Looks like quite a project you've got there, I hope the purchase price reflected the condition.......
What are your plans for the car? ie. What do you want it to be when you're finished?

We tend to be a fairly helpful bunch around here so ask as many questions as you need, plus make sure you scan the for sale sections as it looks like you're going to need a lot of parts to replace the missing bits!
If the roof frame and latches are ok you would be best getting a new 'skin' for the whole lot, make sure you look at the rain rail too as it will probably also need to be replaced.

Probably also list where you are located as local members will often be willing to lend a hand.

Nevyn72 wrote:Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the obsession!

Looks like quite a project you've got there, I hope the purchase price reflected the condition.......
What are your plans for the car? ie. What do you want it to be when you're finished?
.....

thanks for the welcome
I bought it unseen but cheaply. It was a gamble but i went in expecting the worst. The car has lots of pros and cons, as a previous Datsun 240z owner I was very impressed with the lack of rust in the mx5(was great to pull up the carpet and see painted metal there).
Also after 7-8 years of sitting unloved, it started instantly after I got the fuel pump sorted. Mazda's engines are tough!

I'm not 100% sure how I want the car when finished.


At the moment I want to get the body tidyish and everything working, so I can get it RWC and drive it standard for a while/a few months/a year everyday to work. It doesn't have to be perfect, i just want to get to know the car.

Then think about modifying it -thinks coilovers ,microsqirt and turbo kit but unsure.

stuff to do atm:

re attach rear loom- lots of solder and heat shink
fuel strainer bag that fits
boot lid panel beat this or get better one.
get new boot key lock.
get new windscreen
get new tombstone
fix softtop - either get rear window panel or buy a new softtop and fit. thanks Nevyn72 about rainrails, I will look into this.

Once the above is done then ill get the bonnet,bumper,guards, headlight lids, boot lid repainted.

Genuine parts are pretty easy to get on the cheap.
You can try mx5parts.co.uk, or if you know/can find out the genuine part number I highly recommend www.amayama.com.

Happy to see a car like this getting some love.

smy0003 wrote:Genuine parts are pretty easy to get on the cheap.
You can try mx5parts.co.uk, or if you know/can find out the genuine part number I highly recommend http://www.amayama.com.

Happy to see a car like this getting some love.

I used amayama - it is a great service, cheers for info



I did some work on the weekend - replacing rat chewed wires etc.Lots of solder and heatshrink


The piece of loom that goes to the rear had been eaten, plus a few other random wires on the car. The furry jerks had chewed it off close to the firewall, so I had to squeeze myself under the dash with bugger all room to strip and join.

Now the fuel pump/ tank sender and all the tail light are working again. yay

The power windows switch is worn - I did revive it but I'm going to build a relay box for it.

In the post today I got some nb seatbelt reels.
I also got a tombstone(vent surround) from the same guy BUT it didn't survive the post - its in about 25 pieces


will update pics soon

Welcome. Is great to see another NA being brought back from the dead. Look forward to your updates

If you are wanting to buy an older car to fix, pay extra for a complete one..

So far i've spent an extra $800 just for misc missing/broken/worn things. And thats doing it on the cheap using secondhand bits when possible.
None of the parts have been for fun - just basic rwc stuff.

I didn't pay much for the car BUT if I pay to get it painted now and pay for the remaining 'to do' list, I would have been far better off $ wise just buying a medium priced one.


Still need to fix the softtop -$350 + 220 for rain rails
The back tires are not worn but are non matching tread, I think they have to be for RWC $150
New carpet $200
Probably need new rad top and rad hoses- $280 There are some china made alloy rads selling on ebay for $160 - anyone have exp with these?

and paint... either doing it myself which would be $500ish or getting a painter/beater for uh $1000-2000(or alot more if wanting to get fancy)


Anyways - Im getting a new windscreen tomorrow morning,cost is $280 including a new seal with the fitters driving to me which is 30min return. I think thats good value .

I'm checking the brakes and fitting new f&r pads saturday, and with the exception of the non matching rear tyres the car should be RWC again.
But cosmetically still crap.


here is some of the rat munched wires before the soldering and heatshrinking


[URL='http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=khx3e']
Click to view full size![/URL]
http://ocau.com/pix/khx3e

Thanks for the break down, datfreak.
Planning something similar and I'm taking your advice on board.

Done lots of small jobs on the car. Im overdue for an update.
Today I made a relay box for the power windows.

My power windows are a bit hit and miss with the switching.
After pulling the switch apart and cleaning the contacts, reshaping the copper swings and seeing some heat damage internally, I thought it was time to make the switching relayed.

I used 4 X double throw relays at $7 each. The original plan was to put the new box behind the radio but after some measurements, I found plenty of room in the console itself.

Cutting the wires

http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=ksqqh

Lots and lots of wires- I would use less wire for neatness next time:

http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=do5ag


Wrapped in tape and hidden in the console

http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=mg8fo


Notice the ultra tiny wires now going from the switch to the relays, the switch no longer takes any serious current load.
The switch itself now doesn't use the negative side, so only half the contacts have to work for the windows to work.

Works very well. I can post up a wiring diagram if anyone is interested.

What amperage relays did you use?

Also, this might be of interest to you too: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=66145

Cus wrote:What amperage relays did you use?

Also, this might be of interest to you too: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=66145

hi- I used http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/Automotive/30A-Horn-Relay---SPDT/p/SY4070 (jaycar used the wrong picture here - I used the dt type) rated at 30amps.

The timer is a good idea

I'm going to paint the mx soon.

I'd prefer to use 2k paint, as I'm told it is alot less work as there is no need for a clear coat and 'rubbing' between coats.

I've done some searches on 2pack paint (here and other forums) and thoughts are:

a) Don't touch 2pack paint - the isocyanate will kill you. Use a good quality auto acrylic paint, with a clear coat. Sand and dewax between coats.

or

b) No one uses 1k anymore, 2 pack paint is fine just use a organic filtered mask. Your paint time will be greatly reduced and because of this you will have less other (non iso) chems over you. 2k primer/filler gives a much higher yield and makes panel straightening easier.

Another factor is cost-- 1k is 1/3 of the cost of 2k. This kind of surprised
me.

Anyone done home jobs with either 1k or 2k?

2k all the way. You still need to paint clear though. Speak to paint shops about filters.

Finish is heaps better off the gun.

I always do a test patch on some random sheet metal when setting up the gun each time.

Hope that helps

Excuse my ignorance, but 2k is different to 2pack?