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It may be possible to support the motor and drop the K frame to get underneath to replace the sump seal. Two of us (well, one and a half including me as the half) got this done in a day on my SE.

If you're asking $8k for it and it runs well apart from the oil leak you might like to wonder what you could buy for the same $8k if you did sell it.

Finally, please give me an opinion on your Haltech. The recent rebuild on mine included an upgrade from a Haltech piggyback to the same Haltech 1000 as yours, as well as ID1000 injectors and a bunch of other stuff. You say yours runs well. So far, after heaps of tuning time, mine runs great on full throttle but like a pig on mid/transitional throttle. The shunt of on-off/acceleration/deceleration with a steady throttle is so bad that I fear for the longevity of the drivetrain, engine/diff mounts etc.

Sounds worth fixing. As just the sump by the method suggested is a very full day for two, if you're doing other seals and other precautionary work and have the kit to do it, you might find it faster to remove engine and box.

No graphs. The car pulls fine up to the point where it reaches a steady speed for the amount the throttle is open, then it goes bad as described. I'm near to putting the tuner on notice that if he doesn't sort it he removes the ECU and refunds me for it and the tuning time.

Decompression plates are so last year.

Seriously, dont do it, its a bad bandaid from the 80's. You can make near 200rwkw from an unopened na6.

Just pull it out and do a full seal kit from repco or online.

Dann

I dont have a part number, just go in and ask, the seals are around 70 bucks or so all up, the belt also cheap. cam cover gasket 40 odd bucks.

They will have most if not all of it on the shelf.

Dann

davekmoore wrote: a Haltech piggyback to the same Haltech 1000 as yours, as well as ID1000 injectors and a bunch of other stuff. You say yours runs well. So far, after heaps of tuning time, mine runs great on full throttle but like a pig on mid/transitional throttle. The shunt of on-off/acceleration/deceleration with a steady throttle is so bad that I fear for the longevity of the drivetrain, engine/diff mounts etc.

Hi Dave,

I think you should try another tuner.
My Haltech is running Scooby perfectly and I would say its miles better than the factory SP tune.(
I can send you my latest fuel settings but I don't think that would help you much. I'm running Deatschwerks 600cc with a walbro 255 on 15psi and about 170rwkw with no real harshness at all. It drives beautifully.
Ben even fixed the voltage drop with the lights with some rewiring into the ECU which I picked up from SteamPunk on the Haltech forum.

Richard.

Rear main seal, and enough spare money to replace what you will find needs it (my bet would be a rubber hose or 2 and almost definitely a passenger side engine mount.)

Dann

kawasakirider wrote:How badly was your sump leaking?

I shouldn't laugh but ... go on Dave, tell him

did it all go in 1 second or 2?

StuwieP wrote:

kawasakirider wrote:How badly was your sump leaking?

I shouldn't laugh but ... go on Dave, tell him

did it all go in 1 second or 2?

Thanks for the reminder Stuwie. By my calculations and given the 1 square foot hole in the sump, I reckon the initial "leak" would have dropped the lot within about a tenth of a second, all of it over the rear tyres, which were going about 10 degrees sideways at the time. Part of the sump going through and locking the steering rack made it all the more interesting for me and my passenger. Apparently the flames were also interesting for the onlookers.

So, on a scale of 1 to 10, that one was a number 100.

The failure of the sump gasket which caused the need to drop the K frame was a number 3 oil leak.

The most recent oil leak, caused by a crack in the turbo return pipe to the sump, was a number 12.

Do you reckon I'm due a bit of luck with oil leaks?