hoists

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat May 05, 2012 1:51 pm

Does any one know if it is possible to hire a mobile hoist or even a workshop with a hoist, in Brisbane?

Cheers
Andrew

Jace · Postby **Jace** » Sat May 05, 2012 3:36 pm

what do you need a hoist for that can't be done on jack stands etc.?

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat May 05, 2012 3:58 pm

Fitting new coilovers. Can use stands, I'm just curious as I figure it would be a lot easier.

Andrew

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sat May 05, 2012 4:28 pm

IF a mobile hoist exists it would likely cost more to hire than it costs to get a shop to just instll them.

Workshop install of coilovers would probably be only $250 or so.

Hoist hire would probably be a lot more than that.

Just use jackstands, it's a simple job. To be honest, a hoist won't really make it much easier.

Jace · Postby **Jace** » Sat May 05, 2012 5:04 pm

hks_kansei wrote:Just use jackstands, it's a simple job. To be honest, a hoist won't really make it much easier.

+1

i've installed i think 5 sets of coilovers without a hoist. i changed one set on a hoist once and would much rather do it at home!

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat May 05, 2012 5:06 pm

OK then, Thanks for the tips.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sat May 05, 2012 5:12 pm

A hoist only really helps if you need to get under the car, changing shocks and springs doesn't need you to get under the car at all.

One tip I will give, use the long bolt method.
Some of the guides say it won't work on the NA (or was it NB?), but it does.
I've used it on my NB, and my girlfriend has used the long bolt on her NA6 about 5 times?

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat May 05, 2012 5:16 pm

Ok so I'm dumb, but whats the long bolt method?

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sat May 05, 2012 5:20 pm

There's 2 main schools on removing the front shocks.

One involves separating the hub from the control arms etc.

The other involves removing the upper control arm bolt (the long bolt)

Long bolt method is quicker, done with normal tools, and doesn't completely ƒü¢k up your alignment.
Other method takes longer and means you need a ball joint seperator or something.

Have a look here, I think they're both listed.
http://www.miata.net/garage/

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat May 05, 2012 6:25 pm

Yep thanks.

Willstar · Postby **Willstar** » Sat May 05, 2012 6:40 pm

+1 on the long bolt method!

Haynes manuals say to do it the other way. Haynes is wrong!

Jace · Postby **Jace** » Sat May 05, 2012 6:53 pm

Willstar wrote:Haynes is useless!

+1!

WHY ARE WE YELLING

de Bounce · Postby **de Bounce** » Sat May 05, 2012 8:07 pm

hks_kansei wrote:There's 2 main schools on removing the front shocks.
One involves separating the hub from the control arms etc.
The other involves removing the upper control arm bolt (the long bolt)
Long bolt method is quicker, done with normal tools, and doesn't completely Flower up your alignment.
Other method takes longer and means you need a ball joint seperator or something.
Have a look here, I think they're both listed.
http://www.miata.net/garage/

There is a 3rd method which is even easier, faster and less chance of upsetting the wheel alignment
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php ... nsion-swap
In post 2 he unbolts the bottom of the ball joint.

timk · Postby **timk** » Sat May 05, 2012 9:08 pm

I have done it both ways and the 'long bolt' method is so much quicker than the ball joint tongue bolt! Getting that ball joint tongue bolt back in is a PITA!

de Bounce · Postby **de Bounce** » Sat May 05, 2012 10:26 pm

saboteur wrote:I have done it both ways and the 'long bolt' method is so much quicker than the ball joint tongue bolt! Getting that ball joint tongue bolt back in is a PITA!

I must have done it wrong then :wink:

, mine aligned and bolted up easy, first time, both sides!