THE Man Purse >> not 56k friendly.
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:11 pm
The Man Purse:
Purchased late November 2009 after I sold off my old drift car for something more street suitable/fun I guess.
White 1990 NA6: 85rwkw
So the plans were to build a nice tough little car capable of doing mountain runs and maybe some sideways action. Unfortunately is a short nose motor so I’m basically just waiting for it to go despite that I do regular checks to make sure the pulley is in good order aka not going to fall off on me midst driving.
I know that I can tuck 15 x 8 +0 under standard guards but that involves lower/defectable ride height. I did however managed to bash the guards out so only just 10-15mm sticks out but that is still defectable despite being just over 100mm off the ground from the chassis rails, so I don’t mind that the wheels stick in like 10mm with flares on. Might run 205 or 215/50tires to compensate as I’m running 195/50 all round. I want a bit more power so I’m prioritizing that at the moment as I like how it handles so far. I want around 90+ rwkw. The itb have caused noticable lose of botton end torque, and sometimes it's a sh*t of a thing to drive sometimes but the induction noise is worth it =D
So this is what I’ve done to it so far:
- TODA Racing Aggressive Camshafts both intake and exhaust.
- CBR ITB mated to standard intake manifold
- 2.5 inch cat back exhaust from the states. Looks like a greddy knock off? Still rocking the stand headers/front pipe and cat
- EMS Stinger tuned via tps not map vacuum.
- Walbro in tank fuel pump
- GReddy oil catch can
- Aftermarket Fuel Regulator (removing the stock fuel reg and putting a fitting in instead)
- 15x8 +0 Work Equip Copies
- Modified Flares
- Garage Vary Lip
- 3inch Yellow Fog Lights
- HKS 60mm Water Temp
- 76 Lubricant Rear View Mirror
- Have a fixed back seat with rail lying in my room as my gaming chair >> don’t want to get defected. Its blue and stands right out.
- Mazdaspeed 4 point Roll Bar >> padded and plated
- Some crappy steering wheel with quick release. Couldn’t run my White lollypop one >> =[
- BC // BR Coilovers
- Trust white plastic shift knob >> my old dildo one snapped.
- And various vinyl all over my boot >> which I plan on keeping even if I sell this car.
- Thermo fans are hooked onto a switch so I have complete control over them
Things for the future so far;
- OBX ceramic coated headers 4-2-1
- Camshaft gears
- Alloy radiator if I need it and possible a thermostat which opens earlier
- Once the engine goes;
o 11.1 high compression pistons
o Forged rods
o Stiffer valve springs
o Some porting/polishing
o Slight shave of the head to increase compression that little bit more
- 1.5 LSD possibly from Japan
- Shorter Diff pinion/gear from rs asiwa >> 4.7 (maybe)
- Better clutch/lighter flywheel
Enough talk, now onto the pictures >>
Heres a picture of my old car in action;
This bar died on its first outing but nothing an odd 50-100 zipties can’t fix.


Heres a picture of when I first got it home. Mighty gay;

And here is how it sits right now;









Purchased late November 2009 after I sold off my old drift car for something more street suitable/fun I guess.
White 1990 NA6: 85rwkw
So the plans were to build a nice tough little car capable of doing mountain runs and maybe some sideways action. Unfortunately is a short nose motor so I’m basically just waiting for it to go despite that I do regular checks to make sure the pulley is in good order aka not going to fall off on me midst driving.
I know that I can tuck 15 x 8 +0 under standard guards but that involves lower/defectable ride height. I did however managed to bash the guards out so only just 10-15mm sticks out but that is still defectable despite being just over 100mm off the ground from the chassis rails, so I don’t mind that the wheels stick in like 10mm with flares on. Might run 205 or 215/50tires to compensate as I’m running 195/50 all round. I want a bit more power so I’m prioritizing that at the moment as I like how it handles so far. I want around 90+ rwkw. The itb have caused noticable lose of botton end torque, and sometimes it's a sh*t of a thing to drive sometimes but the induction noise is worth it =D
So this is what I’ve done to it so far:
- TODA Racing Aggressive Camshafts both intake and exhaust.
- CBR ITB mated to standard intake manifold
- 2.5 inch cat back exhaust from the states. Looks like a greddy knock off? Still rocking the stand headers/front pipe and cat
- EMS Stinger tuned via tps not map vacuum.
- Walbro in tank fuel pump
- GReddy oil catch can
- Aftermarket Fuel Regulator (removing the stock fuel reg and putting a fitting in instead)
- 15x8 +0 Work Equip Copies
- Modified Flares
- Garage Vary Lip
- 3inch Yellow Fog Lights
- HKS 60mm Water Temp
- 76 Lubricant Rear View Mirror
- Have a fixed back seat with rail lying in my room as my gaming chair >> don’t want to get defected. Its blue and stands right out.
- Mazdaspeed 4 point Roll Bar >> padded and plated
- Some crappy steering wheel with quick release. Couldn’t run my White lollypop one >> =[
- BC // BR Coilovers
- Trust white plastic shift knob >> my old dildo one snapped.
- And various vinyl all over my boot >> which I plan on keeping even if I sell this car.
- Thermo fans are hooked onto a switch so I have complete control over them
Things for the future so far;
- OBX ceramic coated headers 4-2-1
- Camshaft gears
- Alloy radiator if I need it and possible a thermostat which opens earlier
- Once the engine goes;
o 11.1 high compression pistons
o Forged rods
o Stiffer valve springs
o Some porting/polishing
o Slight shave of the head to increase compression that little bit more
- 1.5 LSD possibly from Japan
- Shorter Diff pinion/gear from rs asiwa >> 4.7 (maybe)
- Better clutch/lighter flywheel
Enough talk, now onto the pictures >>
Heres a picture of my old car in action;
This bar died on its first outing but nothing an odd 50-100 zipties can’t fix.


Heres a picture of when I first got it home. Mighty gay;

And here is how it sits right now;








