BEAVIS' White Track Car

[beavis]

Why 9.5:1 pistons?

My theory was fairly simple. 9.5:1 means I can still safely run boost on 98 for those times when E85 is hard to come by. I considered 11:1, but I felt the 9.5:1 was the more 'flexible' choice. Is it best for all out power? Nope. But I'm going to have more than enough oompf to break drive-line components as it is.

I really liked your close to one of your recent videos where you thanked your Dad, top bloke!

Actually I suspect he hasn't seen the video yet. He isn't much of an internet person.

Those bananas aren't $1.50 per kilo.

Well, in their current state, I actually think I'd struggle to sell them at that price!

[beavis]

CLEAN UP THE BLOCK, ADD NEW FORGED BITS
The block was dropped off to be cleaned up and was prepared to meet it's new forged friends.
The engine re-conditioners also checked/balanced all the gear and then assembled the pistons and rods and threw them in the block for me.
Before committing to the work, I had a chat to the guys about the car, it's intended use, and what I thought was needed for the engine. They were quite receptive to the task at hand, respectably priced, and were a pleasure to deal with.
If you're near me and need engine work, I can highly recommend BnB Engines in Clayton.

[beavis]

VALVE SPRING UPGRADE
While the engine block was away, we kept ourselves busy installing the Supertech Dual valve springs.
First time I'd had the cams out of the head for this car, thankfully it again all looked quite nice and the process was fairly trouble free.
Slightly frustratingly, one of the titanium retainers was a mismatch from the rest of the set - must have just been a mis-pack in manufacturing. Trackspeed arranged a replacement sent directly from Supertech which arrived within a couple of weeks.




And, naturally, here's a video of the install process, somewhat of a guide but don't take my word for it, seek professional advice:

[hks_kansei]

Nice work.

yeah, BNB are great, used them for our Kingswood engine after it ate a timing gear, then ate the cam bearing, then a piston skirt, etc.

Great guys, and pricing really good.

They do a heap of race motors for MGBs too.

[beavis]

ENGINE REASSEMBLY BEGINS
Once the block was ready, Beavis senior and I booked ourselves out for a weekend, and got to work on the re-assembly.
All went fairly well, as it's mostly just reinstalling OEM Mazda parts. There were the odd little hurdles and gotchas. Such as the need to clearance the windage tray slightly to fit the larger ARP main studs, and the general tense moment that is gluing the oil pan back to the block.
I also took the opportunity to utilise the Madjak sump baffle template and cut out some sheet aluminium to hopefully aid in maintaining oil pressure under high-g braking.




Here is the montage cut together of the Engine in the rebuild phase:

[NitroDann]

For a dual fuel setup id do 9 or 9.5, for dedicated E85 I -start- at 11:1.

We have 12:1+ setups running 30psi and doing 260+ down Eastern Creek front straight without a hiccup.

Dann

[Lokiel]

Did someone say "montage":



(couldn't help myself, that's what I always think of when I hear that word)

[beavis]

Did someone say "montage":
https://youtu.be/8I_5Bw1U4s4

(couldn't help myself, that's what I always think of when I hear that word)

Haha, Team America is certainly a frequent viewing choice in our household. Something tells me you and I are are not too dissimilar.

[beavis]

ENGINE BACK IN THE CAR
By the end of the second day, the engine was back in the bay.
And then a couple of evenings after work later I had all the engines 'appendages' back together with all the various plumbing all sorted.
This meant essentially everything was almost ready for that 'first-start' moment.



The video of the completing the engine reassebmly and install into the car:

[StuwieP]

awesome news bud

[beavis]

TIME TO FIRE IT UP
Suffice to say, this was a strenuous and tense moment. Firing up the 'new' engine for the first time.
It all went about as well as we could've asked. As suggested by my Dad, we pulled the spark plugs and spun the motor over for a while to build oil pressure. Then, with the plugs back in, the car started up almost instantly and ran like a dream.
Literally the most thrilling moment you could ever ask for. It really sounded so smooth, and of course that was on the old tune....

The video of that thrilling first start:


Which neatly takes me onto the next step in the process. Dyno time! But more on that to come soon, for now I'll leave you with this picture:

[Red_Bullet]

Another stressful time coming up, new engine on a dyno. What engine oil is in it for this? Just how do you run in a race engine?

[beavis]

What engine oil is in it for this? Just how do you run in a race engine?

It has Penrite Mineral Run-In oil in it currently.

I asked the guys who cleaned up the block what their recommend run in process was - best to lean on the experience of those who know what they're doing! Their suggestion was to run up the car on the dyno for some varied loads to start, get the thing bed in, and then drop the oil.
Then, it needs a couple of test/track days building up the pace. Don't go full chat right out the box. Again, flush of oil inbetween.
Progressively I can then move to a semi synth, and eventually back to the normal full synthetic oil I'd use.

All seems fairly logical.

[Red_Bullet]

Ok, sounds fairly logical as you say. You end up with it run in and on the race quality synthetic. Then back to the dyno to chase the final few killer wasps?

[beavis]

There would be no pressing need to go back for a touch up to the tune, and I'm sure it'll be making more power than I want the gearbox to handle, so I think I'll just drive it for a while and get used to things, and reconsider the power level in 12 months or so.