mrpham's summer build
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- mrpham
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Paint Shop Update 7 - http://omgpham.com/paint-shop-update-7
Awesome day today!
Most of the panels are secured onto the body now but only a few things have been gapped properly. I just really wanted the panels back on so they could be towed home securely on the body instead of strapped down behind a ute.
The flow coat came out amazing! The guys at J&D Quality Smash Repairs*usually give it a polish too, but I figure it would be best to do that after I finish assembly. A few little extra bits need to painted and both windscreens need to be fitted up, but that's about it and I should have the car back mid-next week.
A pretty cool Lotus Elise was in the shop too
Installed the boot lid, rear bar and than rear garnish. These panels have been gapped properly.
Using brand new bolts and flanged nuts with washers wherever I can.
New rubbers
The doors/rocker panel have had their rock-guard removed and everything smoothed out. I've kept the black section though, it's gloss black and will go well with the lips/sideskirts that will also be gloss black.
Bonnet and front guards are on but not gapped yet. These panels will be removed as soon as I get the car back though, keep them safe while I get the engine and wiring done.
Starting to look something like a car now!
Awesome day today!
Most of the panels are secured onto the body now but only a few things have been gapped properly. I just really wanted the panels back on so they could be towed home securely on the body instead of strapped down behind a ute.
The flow coat came out amazing! The guys at J&D Quality Smash Repairs*usually give it a polish too, but I figure it would be best to do that after I finish assembly. A few little extra bits need to painted and both windscreens need to be fitted up, but that's about it and I should have the car back mid-next week.
A pretty cool Lotus Elise was in the shop too
Installed the boot lid, rear bar and than rear garnish. These panels have been gapped properly.
Using brand new bolts and flanged nuts with washers wherever I can.
New rubbers
The doors/rocker panel have had their rock-guard removed and everything smoothed out. I've kept the black section though, it's gloss black and will go well with the lips/sideskirts that will also be gloss black.
Bonnet and front guards are on but not gapped yet. These panels will be removed as soon as I get the car back though, keep them safe while I get the engine and wiring done.
Starting to look something like a car now!
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
- gslender
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Very nice. Yep, nice indeed.
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MX5 91 NA6 LE completely stock and loving it!
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- Jessegroves
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mrpham's summer build
If you don't mind, How much did the respray cost in total?
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Re: mrpham's summer build
IIRC someone asked on club roadster, near 6k I think was the answer from memory.
Not cheap but the results I think speak for themselves
Not cheap but the results I think speak for themselves
- mrpham
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Yeah not the cheapest quote I received, that actually varied from $2000 to $8000 from memory, but their projects are consistently good and gave me a reasonable finish date.
Dropped by before work today and installed the front bar and fit up some brackets I had powder coated. I'm replacing any nuts/bolts I can with new ones too.
Dropped by before work today and installed the front bar and fit up some brackets I had powder coated. I'm replacing any nuts/bolts I can with new ones too.
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
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Re: mrpham's summer build
That's actually my mates lotus in the shop, pretty cool coincidence, paint and panels look amazing, very nice job
- mrpham
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Revive mx5 wrote:That's actually my mates lotus in the shop, pretty cool coincidence, paint and panels look amazing, very nice job
Do you think he'll notice if I take his seats? =D
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
- mrpham
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Back Home! - http://omgpham.com/back-home
Happy day! Car has been towed back home and first thing we did was remove all the front panels Storing them in a spare bedroom for now, don't want to scratch anything during assembly.
Colour is Audi's Aviator Grey.
The entire engine bay was covered in blankets during the engine install.
Hnnnnggggggggggg!!!
Colour looks amazing in sunlight, the Audi paint code has a bit of pearl through it but can only be seen in direct sunlight.
The freshly powder coated radiator and sway-bar brackets fitted up with new bolts.
A quick mock up panel for the engine harness Deutsch bulkhead connectors.
I had the front lip painted gloss black, will be interesting to see how well it holds up from all the abuse it cops
Happy day! Car has been towed back home and first thing we did was remove all the front panels Storing them in a spare bedroom for now, don't want to scratch anything during assembly.
Colour is Audi's Aviator Grey.
The entire engine bay was covered in blankets during the engine install.
Hnnnnggggggggggg!!!
Colour looks amazing in sunlight, the Audi paint code has a bit of pearl through it but can only be seen in direct sunlight.
The freshly powder coated radiator and sway-bar brackets fitted up with new bolts.
A quick mock up panel for the engine harness Deutsch bulkhead connectors.
I had the front lip painted gloss black, will be interesting to see how well it holds up from all the abuse it cops
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
- plohl
- Racing Driver
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Dude, it looks freakin' baller. Can't wait to see it in the flesh!
Cheers,
plohl
plohl
- mrpham
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Re: mrpham's summer build
http://omgpham.com/lots-of-photos-wire-tuck
OK, a decent update. Lot's of photos.
Because I'm planning to use bulkhead connectors on the firewall for the engine harness, I drew up this plate to mount the connectors. It allows easy disassembly if any changes need to be made or replacing connectors etc. Because I'm recycling parts for this section, the connectors used are Deutsch 12-way DT and Deutsch 31-way HDP.
Had it 3D printed so I could start the wiring while I wait for the real thing to get laser cut from stainless steel.
Headlight assemblies in.
Brake booster, clutch master and radiator in.
Installed these Garage Star Fender Braces too. Pretty straight forward, comes with all new stainless steel bolts.
Because I had the valve cover sandblasted and painted, all the baffles need to be removed so the blast media can be cleaned out. Garage Star machined stainless steel valve cover bolts. I've got a whole engine bay dress up bolt kit to go on too.
Started on the body wiring tuck, wires are coming out of the side behind the front guards. This has been drilled, painted and sealed to keep moisture out.
Slowly cleaning it up and routing. I've used loom tubing for exterior sections, they provide more protection than just braided sleeving alone.
The wires re-enter the body from the side, drilled a 24mm hole and than sealed any bare metal. Ideally I should have done all the cutting/drilling before paint, lesson learned. I also picked up these wiring grommets from Clark Rubber.
I've had to make a few extensions to tuck the body wiring. Instead of soldering, I've been using these uninsulated butt-splice crimps and than heat-shrinking over it.
Using a factory hole to tuck the wiper motor wiring. I think the hole is normally used for the washer hose, but I'm relocating the washer bottle... More details on that later.
These exposed wires have been wrapped and loom tubed now. Interior sections are covered in a braided sleeving with heat-shrink on the ends.
The headlight assemblies back in, most of the wires are out of sight.
The dual horns installed, and the body harness is done!
Just so everyone knows, this part of the build is on a strict on budget, won't be MIL Spec or anything like that. Every part was either given to me for free or simply re-used from my old harness. It'll do for now, and I'll look into doing a concentric twisted MIL Spec harness later.
Below is the wiring for the coils, it is being terminated into a Deutsch 12-way DT connector. This connector contains wiring for the coil triggers (x4), coil power (x4) and the ECU grounds (x4).
For shielded wires (TPS, crank and cam sensors), what I did was strip the cable further back and unbraided the shield. I than twisted it up and heat-shrinked. It gets terminated into the bulk-head connector and continues onto the other side.
Finished the crank and cam sensors. This is all a dry fit, once I have it mostly sorted, the wires will be sleeved and heat-shrinked.
To tuck the starter and charge wires, I had to a slight extraction and feed them through the tunnel.
So my ITB manifold is sh*t... The factory Toyota manifold has two dowels per throttle body to locate everything into perfect alignment. If the throttle bodies aren't correctly aligned than they don't open equally no matter how many linkage adjustments are made, not great at all!
Below is my solution. I mounted my throttle bodies to the Toyota manifold, adjust everything and confirm their alignment. I than bolt the tops of the throttle bodies to a thick plate of steel. The throttle bodies are removed from the Toyota manifold and transferred to my Techno Toy Tuning manifold. DONE! Everything is spot on now.
Many late nights...
OK, a decent update. Lot's of photos.
Because I'm planning to use bulkhead connectors on the firewall for the engine harness, I drew up this plate to mount the connectors. It allows easy disassembly if any changes need to be made or replacing connectors etc. Because I'm recycling parts for this section, the connectors used are Deutsch 12-way DT and Deutsch 31-way HDP.
Had it 3D printed so I could start the wiring while I wait for the real thing to get laser cut from stainless steel.
Headlight assemblies in.
Brake booster, clutch master and radiator in.
Installed these Garage Star Fender Braces too. Pretty straight forward, comes with all new stainless steel bolts.
Because I had the valve cover sandblasted and painted, all the baffles need to be removed so the blast media can be cleaned out. Garage Star machined stainless steel valve cover bolts. I've got a whole engine bay dress up bolt kit to go on too.
Started on the body wiring tuck, wires are coming out of the side behind the front guards. This has been drilled, painted and sealed to keep moisture out.
Slowly cleaning it up and routing. I've used loom tubing for exterior sections, they provide more protection than just braided sleeving alone.
The wires re-enter the body from the side, drilled a 24mm hole and than sealed any bare metal. Ideally I should have done all the cutting/drilling before paint, lesson learned. I also picked up these wiring grommets from Clark Rubber.
I've had to make a few extensions to tuck the body wiring. Instead of soldering, I've been using these uninsulated butt-splice crimps and than heat-shrinking over it.
Using a factory hole to tuck the wiper motor wiring. I think the hole is normally used for the washer hose, but I'm relocating the washer bottle... More details on that later.
These exposed wires have been wrapped and loom tubed now. Interior sections are covered in a braided sleeving with heat-shrink on the ends.
The headlight assemblies back in, most of the wires are out of sight.
The dual horns installed, and the body harness is done!
Just so everyone knows, this part of the build is on a strict on budget, won't be MIL Spec or anything like that. Every part was either given to me for free or simply re-used from my old harness. It'll do for now, and I'll look into doing a concentric twisted MIL Spec harness later.
Below is the wiring for the coils, it is being terminated into a Deutsch 12-way DT connector. This connector contains wiring for the coil triggers (x4), coil power (x4) and the ECU grounds (x4).
For shielded wires (TPS, crank and cam sensors), what I did was strip the cable further back and unbraided the shield. I than twisted it up and heat-shrinked. It gets terminated into the bulk-head connector and continues onto the other side.
Finished the crank and cam sensors. This is all a dry fit, once I have it mostly sorted, the wires will be sleeved and heat-shrinked.
To tuck the starter and charge wires, I had to a slight extraction and feed them through the tunnel.
So my ITB manifold is sh*t... The factory Toyota manifold has two dowels per throttle body to locate everything into perfect alignment. If the throttle bodies aren't correctly aligned than they don't open equally no matter how many linkage adjustments are made, not great at all!
Below is my solution. I mounted my throttle bodies to the Toyota manifold, adjust everything and confirm their alignment. I than bolt the tops of the throttle bodies to a thick plate of steel. The throttle bodies are removed from the Toyota manifold and transferred to my Techno Toy Tuning manifold. DONE! Everything is spot on now.
Many late nights...
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
- mrpham
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Re: mrpham's summer build
Made some more progress today, the engine harness is complete. I also ran four extra wires sitting under the tunnel, just in case I decide to add idle control. Definitely not Mil Spec, but I'm OK with that.
I'll seal everything up once the engine is tuned and running.
I'll seal everything up once the engine is tuned and running.
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
-
- Speed Racer
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- Location: Purga, QLD
Re: mrpham's summer build
Maybe not milspec but very neat!
- mrpham
- Forum sponsor
- Posts: 856
- Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:42 pm
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
- Contact:
Re: mrpham's summer build
Wiring Complete! - http://omgpham.com/wiring-complete
So here we are, all done.. All those early mornings before work and late nights after work building the engine harness and tucking the body wiring. Pretty happy overall with the finish product, just a few changes I will make later. Just want to get the car running for now.
The 3D printed plate will be replaced with a laser cut stainless steel piece.
Engine harness complete!
Dummy fitted the intake so I could cut the injector wiring to length.
The start of the ECU side of the engine harness. All this is being recycled from the previous wiring setup. So handy having everything done with Deutsch connectors.
Terminating the shielded wires for the crank, cam and TPS sensors.
Completed!
The washer bottle has been relocated to under the guard, I think it should clear everything on full lock and compression. It's a bit awkward to refill, but probably only needs to be topped up once a year. This washer bottle is from a Holden HQ I believe.
So here we are, all done.. All those early mornings before work and late nights after work building the engine harness and tucking the body wiring. Pretty happy overall with the finish product, just a few changes I will make later. Just want to get the car running for now.
The 3D printed plate will be replaced with a laser cut stainless steel piece.
Engine harness complete!
Dummy fitted the intake so I could cut the injector wiring to length.
The start of the ECU side of the engine harness. All this is being recycled from the previous wiring setup. So handy having everything done with Deutsch connectors.
Terminating the shielded wires for the crank, cam and TPS sensors.
Completed!
The washer bottle has been relocated to under the guard, I think it should clear everything on full lock and compression. It's a bit awkward to refill, but probably only needs to be topped up once a year. This washer bottle is from a Holden HQ I believe.
Current Forum Specials!
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
Frame Rail Braces - http://goo.gl/xJtRTs
COPs Bracket - http://goo.gl/sxJWhF
Build Thread - http://goo.gl/L3ZuKU
-
- Racing Driver
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- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
Re: mrpham's summer build
Good idea with the washer bottle....
I've got to move mine, so the turbo won't melt the bottle.... I was thinking the boot, where you have placed yours, seems a better idea.
Cars looking nice. thumbs up!
I've got to move mine, so the turbo won't melt the bottle.... I was thinking the boot, where you have placed yours, seems a better idea.
Cars looking nice. thumbs up!
-
- Speed Racer
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- Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:52 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Lugarno, Sydney
Re: mrpham's summer build
Really coming along now!
I almost pm'd you asking to get a spare plate cut so I could do the same but I don't have your patience...
Also like the water washer bottle and bet it didn't cost 200 like one other alternative. It just needs a funnel and tube in the engine bay
I almost pm'd you asking to get a spare plate cut so I could do the same but I don't have your patience...
Also like the water washer bottle and bet it didn't cost 200 like one other alternative. It just needs a funnel and tube in the engine bay
NA6 turbo - 140kw atw - not the most powerful but so much fun
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