Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
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- Pamex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Oh, Emex; a bit more on the mirrors:
They could very well be genuine M2 at this stage. Looks like the main difference between genuine M2 and others is the M2s came with a rubber gasket, which these ones have. Apparently most others have a plastic one (but feel free to correct me).
The M2 stamp is under the mirror and on the inside, which is why I can't see if these have the proper stamp. The photos aren't at the right angle.
Runabouts have the Runabout stamp on the top, which I can see isn't in the photos, so it's not them.
So, Zoom or genuine M2 it looks like. The finish is leading me to M2 though...
I have started to look at other M2 products... this is a very, very dangerous path.
They could very well be genuine M2 at this stage. Looks like the main difference between genuine M2 and others is the M2s came with a rubber gasket, which these ones have. Apparently most others have a plastic one (but feel free to correct me).
The M2 stamp is under the mirror and on the inside, which is why I can't see if these have the proper stamp. The photos aren't at the right angle.
Runabouts have the Runabout stamp on the top, which I can see isn't in the photos, so it's not them.
So, Zoom or genuine M2 it looks like. The finish is leading me to M2 though...
I have started to look at other M2 products... this is a very, very dangerous path.
Red 1990 NA | 1949 MG TC. TC 6568 | 244GL Rally Volvo | 1979 HZ Kingswood
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
- emex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Happy aide and abet...
2006 NC Galaxy / Black manual soft top. Ipod, K&N, leathery bits & piano black with smoked repeaters...The love affair has moved up a notch.
- slug_dub
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
I'll just leave these here...
one two three four
Would love to see what you come up with for interior goodness! If I find or remember more things M2 related I'll be sure to post em
one two three four
Would love to see what you come up with for interior goodness! If I find or remember more things M2 related I'll be sure to post em
The American wrote:hella sic stance flushing pard harker yolo something something.
- emex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Oh this just got interesting LOL
2006 NC Galaxy / Black manual soft top. Ipod, K&N, leathery bits & piano black with smoked repeaters...The love affair has moved up a notch.
- RedMX
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- emex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
RedMX wrote:
Indeed it did....... those gauge faces are to die for! 0_0
Agreed, but the intricate stuff that made an M2 different though, Dare I say it not even MazdaSpeed is the same...
2006 NC Galaxy / Black manual soft top. Ipod, K&N, leathery bits & piano black with smoked repeaters...The love affair has moved up a notch.
- Pamex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
I love how elegant and clean the M2 stuff is. It ties in with the theme I was planning. Those gauges are just stunning. Heck, everything is stunning there.
Also, I may have gasped a little bit when I saw the strut brace. Mmm.
Thanks for sharing Slug_Dub! More inspiration to start planning. The collecting goes without saying.
Emex... Nik might kill you for saying that about Mazdaspeed. It's ok, I'll placate him with a Mazdaspeed catalogue and all will be well.
Also, I may have gasped a little bit when I saw the strut brace. Mmm.
Thanks for sharing Slug_Dub! More inspiration to start planning. The collecting goes without saying.
Emex... Nik might kill you for saying that about Mazdaspeed. It's ok, I'll placate him with a Mazdaspeed catalogue and all will be well.
Red 1990 NA | 1949 MG TC. TC 6568 | 244GL Rally Volvo | 1979 HZ Kingswood
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
- slug_dub
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Yep I'm very into that strut bar as well
The American wrote:hella sic stance flushing pard harker yolo something something.
- emex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Pamex wrote:I love how elegant and clean the M2 stuff is. It ties in with the theme I was planning. Those gauges are just stunning. Heck, everything is stunning there.
Also, I may have gasped a little bit when I saw the strut brace. Mmm.
Thanks for sharing Slug_Dub! More inspiration to start planning. The collecting goes without saying.
Emex... Nik might kill you for saying that about Mazdaspeed. It's ok, I'll placate him with a Mazdaspeed catalogue and all will be well.
He can have a Zoom Zoom sticker...
2006 NC Galaxy / Black manual soft top. Ipod, K&N, leathery bits & piano black with smoked repeaters...The love affair has moved up a notch.
- Pamex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Well, I thought I'd do a write up on the paint system as one of our tradies has picked up my car keys accidentally and they're off on an adventure to Werribee until he brings them back.
I originally did my boot in the POR-15 system, as it was rusting out due to the wrong battery in there (yeah, yeah, don't yell at me. I couldn't afford the proper one at that time. All fixed now).
POR-15 is a paint system that you paint directly on to the rust. It takes a bit of prep, however it is self-levelling and gives a finish that is chip and scratch proof. It is used a lot by people doing engine bays and chassis during a restoration.
It also is fairly inexpensive, as it goes a long way. You can buy a starter kit that has all the solutions and paint required, for $35. That is adequate for a boot, and another one will do your interior. Compared to buying primer, rattle cans, etc., it works out rather well financially.
It is also ridiculously easy to use. If you can follow instructions and do the prep correctly, there's very little that can go wrong.
Firstly, the carpets were removed about 2 years ago. I've found no noise issues in that time, so I've decided to keep this set-up. It also makes cleaning after playing in a muddy field a lot easier.
I started with this:
Step 1: Sand your life away
I used a wire brush on a drill to get most of the paint off. POR-15 will adhere to existing paint with no problems, but it's a lot better to get as much as is reasonably practicable off. I also figured that sanding the paint out will remove some of the 'harder to clean out' dirt. If you have smaller items to do, you'd probably be better just sand blasting them.
Step 2: Marine Clean
In the kit comes a wonderful little solution called Marine Clean. You can't use a solvent based cleaner if you want POR-15 to work properly. Use half Marine Clean and half water. Just scrub it around and make sure your surface is pristine afterwards. Lots of paper towel is recommended. I think I used about 20 rolls.
Step 3: Metal Ready
This step is crucial. You paint the Metal Ready solution on, making sure that you keep it wet. Leave it for about 1/2 hour, then clean it off. What you'll see in that 1/2 hour is the paint will start to look like it is rusting. Good stuff if so, it's working. I haven't got any photos that show it unfortunately, as it's hard to capture.
The entire surface doesn't have to look like it's rusting, just as long as you have patches, you know that it has been on long enough. This solution effectively etches the metal, creating the best surface for the paint to bond to the metal. Of course, you can get away without doing it. However, you may as well do it right. It's possible the paint wouldn't create a lasting chip-proof, scratch proof and rust protectant surface if you skipped this. Possibly, but you may as well do it right.
Even if you do choose to skip this step, you're biggest thing with this and following on from the Marine Clean is to make sure the surface is completely dry before you start painting. Crack out the hairdryer. Every self-respecting hair-dresser should be carrying one in Mazda's specially shaped hair dryer slot!
Step 4: PAINT!
The exciting bit! Especially if you get it on your skin. You can't remove it, so be prepared to wear it for the week.
I was lazy and left my centre console in, as I was using some fairly thin brushes up around this area. Relax, I'm licensed. I'm an ex-fine arts student.
You need to paint one layer and let it dry. But here's the catch. You need to do your second layer when it's just tacky, not completely dry. If you let it dry completely, you'll need to sand back a little bit. Time and concentration really is of the essence here.
The other point with that, is you need to make sure the paint is thick enough. If you wuss out and do it too thin, it will rust through.
Let it dry completely and re-assemble your car. I thought I had a 'finished' photo, but I don't! Will grab one and put it up when my keys come home.
To be continued...
I originally did my boot in the POR-15 system, as it was rusting out due to the wrong battery in there (yeah, yeah, don't yell at me. I couldn't afford the proper one at that time. All fixed now).
POR-15 is a paint system that you paint directly on to the rust. It takes a bit of prep, however it is self-levelling and gives a finish that is chip and scratch proof. It is used a lot by people doing engine bays and chassis during a restoration.
It also is fairly inexpensive, as it goes a long way. You can buy a starter kit that has all the solutions and paint required, for $35. That is adequate for a boot, and another one will do your interior. Compared to buying primer, rattle cans, etc., it works out rather well financially.
It is also ridiculously easy to use. If you can follow instructions and do the prep correctly, there's very little that can go wrong.
Firstly, the carpets were removed about 2 years ago. I've found no noise issues in that time, so I've decided to keep this set-up. It also makes cleaning after playing in a muddy field a lot easier.
I started with this:
Step 1: Sand your life away
I used a wire brush on a drill to get most of the paint off. POR-15 will adhere to existing paint with no problems, but it's a lot better to get as much as is reasonably practicable off. I also figured that sanding the paint out will remove some of the 'harder to clean out' dirt. If you have smaller items to do, you'd probably be better just sand blasting them.
Step 2: Marine Clean
In the kit comes a wonderful little solution called Marine Clean. You can't use a solvent based cleaner if you want POR-15 to work properly. Use half Marine Clean and half water. Just scrub it around and make sure your surface is pristine afterwards. Lots of paper towel is recommended. I think I used about 20 rolls.
Step 3: Metal Ready
This step is crucial. You paint the Metal Ready solution on, making sure that you keep it wet. Leave it for about 1/2 hour, then clean it off. What you'll see in that 1/2 hour is the paint will start to look like it is rusting. Good stuff if so, it's working. I haven't got any photos that show it unfortunately, as it's hard to capture.
The entire surface doesn't have to look like it's rusting, just as long as you have patches, you know that it has been on long enough. This solution effectively etches the metal, creating the best surface for the paint to bond to the metal. Of course, you can get away without doing it. However, you may as well do it right. It's possible the paint wouldn't create a lasting chip-proof, scratch proof and rust protectant surface if you skipped this. Possibly, but you may as well do it right.
Even if you do choose to skip this step, you're biggest thing with this and following on from the Marine Clean is to make sure the surface is completely dry before you start painting. Crack out the hairdryer. Every self-respecting hair-dresser should be carrying one in Mazda's specially shaped hair dryer slot!
Step 4: PAINT!
The exciting bit! Especially if you get it on your skin. You can't remove it, so be prepared to wear it for the week.
I was lazy and left my centre console in, as I was using some fairly thin brushes up around this area. Relax, I'm licensed. I'm an ex-fine arts student.
You need to paint one layer and let it dry. But here's the catch. You need to do your second layer when it's just tacky, not completely dry. If you let it dry completely, you'll need to sand back a little bit. Time and concentration really is of the essence here.
The other point with that, is you need to make sure the paint is thick enough. If you wuss out and do it too thin, it will rust through.
Let it dry completely and re-assemble your car. I thought I had a 'finished' photo, but I don't! Will grab one and put it up when my keys come home.
To be continued...
Red 1990 NA | 1949 MG TC. TC 6568 | 244GL Rally Volvo | 1979 HZ Kingswood
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
- slug_dub
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Credit must go to Bizi for linking this in his thread... I'd seen this before but had forgotten about it:
http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum/sh ... .php?t=352
in fact there's a whole bunch of links there for ya: viewtopic.php?f=75&t=48729
(thanks Bizi!)
http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum/sh ... .php?t=352
in fact there's a whole bunch of links there for ya: viewtopic.php?f=75&t=48729
(thanks Bizi!)
The American wrote:hella sic stance flushing pard harker yolo something something.
- Bizi
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Pamex wrote:...In other news, I've won some mirrors off yahoo Japan that will suit her perfectly.
My driver's side is currently held on by a giant bolt through the entire lot, after it snapped off in my hands adjusting it at a motorkhana.
The new ones...
There's a few options to what they could be. I'm hoping to hell that when I receive them, they have the M2 Corp stamp somewhere on them, as that would just be too damned cool.
Hi Pam,
Great thread, great mirror buy!
Pam, can you please PM more details on your mirrors auction win?
I have put a fair few M2 pics from the Clubroadster.net thread onto my own build thread, so you can find lots more tasty M2 mods.
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=47478&start=60
I think the mirrors, if they aren't too small/impractical, are the one single retro mod that improves on the stock NA shape. Congrats!
- Pamex
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Cheers. :-) Will do.
I was originally going to put bike style mirrors on, but I know they can be a bit iffy with visibility. I'm hoping these will be ok in that regard.
I was originally going to put bike style mirrors on, but I know they can be a bit iffy with visibility. I'm hoping these will be ok in that regard.
Red 1990 NA | 1949 MG TC. TC 6568 | 244GL Rally Volvo | 1979 HZ Kingswood
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
- slug_dub
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
The American wrote:hella sic stance flushing pard harker yolo something something.
- Pamex
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- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2008 9:28 pm
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Re: Pam's sexy little NA6 - Seniorita!
Today was the big day of picking up mirrors!
Rupewrecht withheld himself and didn't look in the box, so he didn't know what they were either.
They don't have the M2 stamp, but god they are an awesome piece of kit. I'm just waiting for photos to transfer and will pop them up later.
There's no markings what-so-ever to tell what they are, but they work really well with some of my other mods. They're brushed aluminium look, so they work perfectly with the MS-03s, my aluminium vent rings, etc.
Nik is the best boyfriend ever and even cleaned them up for me whilst I was working on my brakes.
I got up early to determine what the feint squeal I have had for the past couple of days was, and to do my slider pins which were making the famous 'clunk' on release.
I worked out the squeal. Pads are fine, with half left all round. One of the backing plates had come off the pad though, and was pressing against the hub/rotor. A-ha! The squeal! Easy fix.
A leaking front left caliper is not so easy a fix, for this weekend anyway. Purely because I don't have any front calipers in the garage.
When I press in the seal around the piston on the front left caliper, the brake fluid decides partying outside the caliper is a better idea. I reckon if I held it, I could empty the line. :p
So Seniorita is unfortunately off the road until I get some brand spanking new calipers to put on the front. I'll get them couriered to work this week wherever I get them from. Unfortunately, as always, time is not on my side. We have a wedding tomorrow, and I'm in Brisbane again all of next weekend, then another VMC round the weekend after that, so it's going to be another night of working by work lights on the driveway.
Hopefully the weather will hold out and I'll put them on after work sometime this week.
If you see a girl riding a bike to work, try not to laugh at me. :p
Rupewrecht withheld himself and didn't look in the box, so he didn't know what they were either.
They don't have the M2 stamp, but god they are an awesome piece of kit. I'm just waiting for photos to transfer and will pop them up later.
There's no markings what-so-ever to tell what they are, but they work really well with some of my other mods. They're brushed aluminium look, so they work perfectly with the MS-03s, my aluminium vent rings, etc.
Nik is the best boyfriend ever and even cleaned them up for me whilst I was working on my brakes.
I got up early to determine what the feint squeal I have had for the past couple of days was, and to do my slider pins which were making the famous 'clunk' on release.
I worked out the squeal. Pads are fine, with half left all round. One of the backing plates had come off the pad though, and was pressing against the hub/rotor. A-ha! The squeal! Easy fix.
A leaking front left caliper is not so easy a fix, for this weekend anyway. Purely because I don't have any front calipers in the garage.
When I press in the seal around the piston on the front left caliper, the brake fluid decides partying outside the caliper is a better idea. I reckon if I held it, I could empty the line. :p
So Seniorita is unfortunately off the road until I get some brand spanking new calipers to put on the front. I'll get them couriered to work this week wherever I get them from. Unfortunately, as always, time is not on my side. We have a wedding tomorrow, and I'm in Brisbane again all of next weekend, then another VMC round the weekend after that, so it's going to be another night of working by work lights on the driveway.
Hopefully the weather will hold out and I'll put them on after work sometime this week.
If you see a girl riding a bike to work, try not to laugh at me. :p
Red 1990 NA | 1949 MG TC. TC 6568 | 244GL Rally Volvo | 1979 HZ Kingswood
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
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