Cus' NA6

[speed]

Then also put down carpet so shes parked on carpet.

OMG she will go so hard for you afterwards.

I think we all just learnt a little more about Stan. Haha


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[speed]

Those sort of 'sheds' are not wind friendly... You can leave the structure up but remember to take the 'shade' part down.

But this one is trade marked by Cus so normal physics may not apply.

Is a pitty that the green fence at the back is not studier, as you could have fit a sail from the house to the fence without obstruction from posts.

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[StanTheMan]

Then also put down carpet so shes parked on carpet.

OMG she will go so hard for you afterwards.

I think we all just learnt a little more about Stan. Haha


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Ive been around since the birth of this forum in 2001. Ive lost about 15000 posts on my count I would have though evrything is out about me....

but about the carpet.....
The wife is Turkish

my mother in laws garage is full of magic carpet on he garage floor.

I was told to park in the Garage one night. On top of the carpet.

far out Patchy hammered the next day. She was full of beans. LOL

I'm serious

[speed]

Well I didn't realise that is was magic carpet

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[StanTheMan]

.....

IMG_6232.JPG

[Cus]

The shed-zebo is all packed up again, it's just for when I want to work on the car and not die of heatstroke. I'm a gun at putting these things up and down, I used to have to do it all the time when I was doing P.A work for my uncle. A few years ago I was camping with mates, came time to pack up and I folded up their canopy and put it in the bag and they reacted like I'd performed some kind of magic trick. Apparently they'd never been able to work out how to fold it up so it fit.... (Triangles, squares, rectangles!)

Those sort of 'sheds' are not wind friendly... You can leave the structure up but remember to take the 'shade' part down.

It was the cheapest one Ray's had ($129, some kind of australia day sale), the helpful girl said it would be alright, but "don't leave it up during weather, the poles aren't that great" I appreciate an honest sales-person! I've got a 6x3m tarp somewhere to cover in two sides if I really want to go all out.

my mother in laws garage is full of magic carpet on he garage floor.

So uhh, stan, is the mother-in-law selling any of her magic carpet? *steppenwolf starts playing in the background*

Is a pitty that the green fence at the back is not studier, as you could have fit a sail from the house to the fence without obstruction from posts.

The white post leaning against the corner of the fence actually holds it up. If it's exceptionally windy, I move the car out the front for fear of the fence landing on the car. Mr. Neighbourman told me the previous owner of the house and his mate put it up one saturday night, while drunk as skunks. It shows. It's not cemented in, moves (the whole thing) with even moderate wind, and most of the panels are detached from eachother. Every 12 months he approaches my landlord and asks if they want to buy the back half of the block (he subdivided it, then realised he couldn't put units out the back, and just sold the house/front block) because there's no (legal) access to his block. His price never comes down, so he's got a plot of land he can't use, and I have no back yard.

[Cus]

.....
IMG_6232.JPG

Wait, there's a genie too?!?

[Cus]

We're into the new year now, so that means a new tab in my OCD Fuel usage spreadsheet!


The final figures for last year were:

Tanks of petrol: 85 (same as 2015)
Litres of petrol: 2084L (Down 29L)
Distance covered: 36382KM (Up 317)

AVG L/100 for the year: 7.73L/100KM (2015: 7.88L/100KM)

Graph:


The 7's at the start of the year were road tripping around, and fairly consistent, then we got into alternating roadtrip/around town tanks, then I installed the ECU, and things went haywire for a bit (as is to be expected road tuning) the 6.69L/100km down-spike confuses me, it was the tank of fuel I used going on a MX5Vic Club run, mountain roads, a couple of u-turns, and not driving for economy. That's the best economy I've ever had in the car since I bought it. Then we started using more fuel steadily for the rest of the year. So far this year, all (3) of my tanks have been over 8L/100km. Why?

I have a theory: my DIY Cold Air intake is incredibly dodgy. It does pull in air that's within 5degC of ambient, but the air is moving much slower due to a sharp 180 right at the start of the intake. I took it off last night and went for a logged drive, a VE Analyse on the parts of the map hit I did pulls 1 - 2 out of the VE table, and now the car is running richer, since fixing my rev limiter (I was running into the CLT rev limiter due to bad settings randomly in the 6k RPM region) I'd noticed I was losing MAP as RPM increases (~7kPa at 7100RPM), which made me remove the snorkel off the start of the intake tube. Currently intake temps are 20+degC hotter than ambient, but the air is moving much faster.

More testing will follow, but my current theory is: Slower air movement leading to leading lower atmoisation of the fuel resulting in less power and economy.

[smy0003]

My hat is off to you, whilst some MX5s sit in sheds yours covered almost 40,000km in a year. Yikes.
I'm not sure how the MS works, but does it run closed-loop fuel corrections all the time as you drive? If it's targeting a set AFR it might be that your wideband needs to be re-calibrated.
Also, they say that your mood can quite significantly effect your fuel economy... Didn't you get a new job towards the end of last year?

[Cus]

Mine will be doing a lot more shed-time now, with the work car and all. I'm amazed that in two consecutive years I did the same number of fill-ups, and got within a tank of range for both years.

I'm not sure how the MS works, but does it run closed-loop fuel corrections all the time as you drive? If it's targeting a set AFR it might be that your wideband needs to be re-calibrated.

The MS does do closed-loop EGO corrections ... but they're turned off for the moment. It also does long-term fuel trim, which is also turned off. What's the point in having all these features if I'm just going to use them? There is no calibration required/possible for my WB02, it's a 14point7 spartan 2 attached to a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. (the 4.2 sensors required free-air calibration, 4.9's do not)

I did have it sitting within +/- 0.2 of my desired AFRs, and I strongly suspect it was my dodgy DIY CAI being far too dodgy (there was a large kink on the inside of it when I removed it), therefore killing air speed through the intake, leading to low intake velocity, in turn leading to poor fuel atomisation, and finally, bad economy (and power, as much as you can use that term when referring to an N/A 1.6 )

I'll know for certain in a few tanks of fuel now I've un-dodgy'd it. Going for a little squirt soon to log some cell-hits and then run it through megalogviewer VE analysis to see what happens, running the logs from last night's drive post CAI-deletion though MLV and then loading the two MSQs into the msThingy gives me this:


Basically I'm pulling fuel out everywhere, except low-load/low-RPM and low-load/high-RPM. I also need to re-tune the accel-pump settings, I'd just dialed them in for the old intake.... Once the laptop is charged back up, I'll go and have an actual play.

The huge changes in the low-RPM cells indicate the car is going to behave much different (hopefully; better) when stomping on it from low rpm. Previously I had to gently feed it in up until 2k-ish, then I could stomp on it, otherwise it would just carry on until about 2000RPM, then we unleashed the might for 20 or 30 horsepowers! I imagine what has been happening is very low intake speed, so the fuel is just dribbling into the cylinder as a fluid instead of being sucked in and forming a vapor, therefore not burning properly. At least, that's what I think. I've been known to be entirely wrong before, and probably will be again!

...and what's going on over in the high-RPM/low-load cells hear you ask?
Well! It could be anything, ranging from "I wasn't trying to hit those cells" through to "airflow forces I don't understand" ... I'll have an -il-informed theory soon enough! ;)

[Cus]

So, I found play in one of my rear wheel bearings.

There are many options available to me, but like the logical man I am, I've decided this is the best one:




The 1.8 diff came with hubs, which have bearings, which ... well, are unknown... but the diff is going in tomorrow, the brother-in-law and I pulled the NA6 one out this afternoon, and we'll put the nb8 one in tomorrow!

The only real snag was the locating washer thingy:


We even resorted to the service manual, which - as usual - made it sound easy, before giving up and just asking facebook. The general consensus: "just be more violent" .. so we did.

The other snag being unable to remove the middle section of the butterfly brace, so we couldn't get the exhaust out, so it was in the way all afternoon. We're investigating different tools form a different toolbox tomorrow, having the exhaust out of the way will make like infinitely easier.

[Cus]

I was curious, and happen to have both diffs side-by-side, so I present:

Observational differences between the na6 diff and the nb8 diff.

Tailshafts: na6 tailshaft is longer.


Driveshafts: na6 drive shafts have bolted flanges, and are marginally thinner.


Pumpkins: nb8 pumpkin is bigger in every dimension, has more meat in the diagonals (and more diagonals)





Curiosity satisfied.

[ralt]

Hi.
When putting in the spacer shown in the photo put the bolt through it and tighten the bolt which pulls the spacer into place,

[StanTheMan]

Resorting to violence LOL

Only good in some occasions

[BlackLeaf]

The only real snag was the locating washer thingy.

I removed the diff from my NA a couple of weeks ago and also struggled with the "thingy". In the end, after managing some initial separation with a chisel, I had success with a small claw hammer. Not saying it is the best way to do it, but it worked for me and my limited tool set.