Barton's NA6

SKYHI · Postby **SKYHI** » Tue May 01, 2018 10:36 am

Just read through the thread, some pretty cool stuff. You're obviously pretty handy, and I really like the Pi dash. Looking to do the same with my SE track car soon, but having to do a lot of research at this stage as I have no clue what I'm doing

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue May 01, 2018 6:35 pm

lucmor444 wrote:Great update Alex. Another question on the Shockworks - did you keep your extended top hats for the rear?

I didn't keep anything from the previous setup I had. The Shockworks already have a deeper top hat.

TCR wrote:Just read through the thread, some pretty cool stuff. You're obviously pretty handy, and I really like the Pi dash. Looking to do the same with my SE track car soon, but having to do a lot of research at this stage as I have no clue what I'm doing

Thanks

Should bear in mind the setup I've done will only really work with a Megasquirt ECU. I think there is another way to do it also using an arduino and standalone inputs but that's a lot more effort.

beavis wrote:And new headlights!

Yes forgot to mention those.

SKYHI · Postby **SKYHI** » Tue May 01, 2018 8:00 pm

bartmanftw wrote:Thanks Should bear in mind the setup I've done will only really work with a Megasquirt ECU. I think there is another way to do it also using an arduino and standalone inputs but that's a lot more effort. .

Yeah I have the MS3 PRO PnP

takai · Postby **takai** » Tue May 01, 2018 10:50 pm

Very nice. Out of interest, why did you switch from the MSPNP to MS3?

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue May 01, 2018 11:20 pm

takai wrote:Very nice. Out of interest, why did you switch from the MSPNP to MS3?

You mean the DIYPNP? Not the same thing as MSPnP. The DIYPNP is ms2 based so there are a lot of reasons for switching.

takai · Postby **takai** » Tue May 01, 2018 11:38 pm

bartmanftw wrote:
takai wrote:Very nice. Out of interest, why did you switch from the MSPNP to MS3?

You mean the DIYPNP? Not the same thing as MSPnP. The DIYPNP is ms2 based so there are a lot of reasons for switching.

Yeah, missed that in the original post now that i have re-read it.

Phillbert · Postby **Phillbert** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 2:39 pm

Nice thread alex, informative read.

I like the new dash layout, simpler than the old one and likely much easier to read while driving

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:43 pm

How are those tyres?

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bruce · Postby **bruce** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:54 pm

I reckon those tyres are as soft as marbit.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 9:00 pm

The ad08rs? They're quite grippy but still not a proper semi-slick. They start fading off a bit a few laps into a session at the track but still far better than something like a re003.
I've been using Bridgestone RE71r for a while now as well and they're even better. Don't think they'll last as long though.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:02 am

Ive just purchased a set for street. Sounds perfect.

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StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:06 am

bruce wrote:I reckon those tyres are as soft as marbit.

Marshmellow Bruce.....

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bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Fri Sep 14, 2018 12:05 am

I have been very busy with work so only a small update to the MX-5. Have mainly been buying parts and letting them collect dust.

Got myself a refurbished ms3pro 1st gen for quite cheap which I will eventually mount in the engine bay when I re-wire everything. Silver box is an Ecotrons ALM-CAN wideband module which I will also be using. Communicates directly with MS via CAN bus. Since I want to also use other CAN bus devices and the ALM comes default with a 250k baud rate I'll need to re-program it.
Currently have the MS receiving the messages from it however I've noticed that when using the "Ecotrons ALM" CAN-EGO dropdown input the sensor range is limited to 0.5-1.735 lambda while the actual sensor reading goes from 0.5-15.99 lambda (not that you really need to see values that high).
Also receiving sensor temperature data and it also sends out error codes however I haven't set anything up for that yet.
Will also need to look into a better way of inputting the data. Lambda and temperature data are both contained in 2 bytes each. I'm reading each byte individually and putting the raw data into a generic sensor input, and then using the custom channel editor to convert the raw values.

Bench testing:

Lambda readout. Lambda_CAN is the actual data received from the controller. You can see that the CAN-EGO input is capped at 1.735 lambda. I used cigarette lighter gas to displace the oxygen in the sensor tip.

Lambda raw conversion

Temperature raw conversion

CAN Receiving settings:

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue Oct 16, 2018 6:47 pm

Lots of things happening now. Having another car to drive everyday to work helps heaps since the mx5 can just live on jackstands. Only trouble now is finding the time to work on it.

Kraken turbo kit is bolted on with a Garrett GTX2860R turbo. As you can probably work out I've decided to use a water to air intercooler setup this time. Aim is to get the best response possible and keep intake temperatures very consistent. A/C condensor is being used as the heat exchanger for the intercooler since it as free and bolts straight up, just need to figure out what thread type the inlet/outlet fitting use.
Will find out how well the setup works when I get it running by monitoring manifold air temperature but worst case I can swap back to using an air to air setup with the xr6 intercooler.

Dump pipe clearance is pretty tight with the brake line. Brake line will definitely need to be bend out of the way or re-routed some other way

Electric water pump for the intercooler. It's a small Davies Craig EBP23.

Also installed another electric water pump for the engine coolant. Davies Craig EWP80 pump. Fit nicely inbetween the OEM lower radiator hose. Will be dríven indirectly by the ECU through a high current relay module so that the pump speed can be controlled. Thermostat will be removed initially but if controlling the pump speed isn't enough to keep the coolant up to temperature it'll have to be added back.

Last thing added on for the moment is a LRB undertray. Covers quite a large area under the front of the car and also does a nice job of blocking off the sides of the radiator to prevent air from bypassing the radiator through the wheel well.

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:45 pm

...long time and no post..

Got a bit done over the Xmas holidays. Almost ready to drive the car. I've turned it on and both water pumps work fine, just might need to adjust the PWM control of the engine pump.

Wiring for the engines water pump. Solid state PWM driver mounted next to the OEM relays in the corner.

Heater return had to be moved before the water pump. OEM hardline has been deleted.