GSlender's Track Beeotch!

[sailaholic]

What's the sensor read at closed circuit / open circuit?

Can u replicate it on the road or with out engine running?

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[gslender]

What's the sensor read at closed circuit / open circuit?

Can u replicate it on the road or with out engine running?

Not sure I follow - is the question "is the sensor correctly calibrated" then yep, I believe it would be.

Speaking with a few at the track, the consensus is that perhaps when at full song, at 7000rpm, the water pump is pushing X water through and keeping it just around 100 deg or just below, as soon as I back off, the pump slows a fair bit to 5000rpm and the water hits a pressure point and boils... and so quickly climbs to 130 deg as the radiator and system can't cope with such an extreme situation.

After looking at the logs more, it seems that yep, the cooling system isn't working as effectively as I'd like and the engine is getting too hot on the track. I've not got all the right ducting, upper and lower air ducts in and so it might not be as efficient as I'd like. Also, I've yet to install and oil cooler and I'd be thinking that would help with temps if the oil is kept lower.

All part of the fun I guess!

[corners]

Do you have an undertray?

[Magpie]

My water temp at a recent QR session stayed around 94° all day.

As for Corners undertray?

[gslender]

Yeah, agree the stock undertray needs to go on, plus I've got one of those radiator front cowls to put on.... Once i do that, plus the oil cooler I'd say it will be sorted

[gslender]

Have to keep remembering it pulls hard from 6000 to 7500 so no wonder she's hot!

[Magpie]

Keep me in mind when developing your cowl to the radiator as I need to do one as well.

Mine starts pulling from 5,500 and keep going to 8,200.

[sailaholic]

I don't think it's your cams /itbs creating the heat problem.

As seen on another thread someone has successfully used the civic half width rad for dyno and a race meet on a built engine. If you've got temp issues it's else where.

What I was trying saying before is do have an electrical gremlin that is making your temp sensor reading max (ie open or short circuit) with the throttle closed switch activates / what ever combination of things happen at that point of the track.

What's the max temperature of the sender for reporting.


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[gslender]

Having reviewed all logs for about 5 runs, they all start overheating by about the 4th to 5th lap. By the 6th lap in cool down, I'm constantly hitting 100+ degrees all the time and punches up to 120 or so for brief seconds. It just looks like a system fail whereby it can't cope with the thermal build up.

The kinda stuff that's not really noticeable on the dash gauge - as it would be moving ever slightly and only up for a few seconds. Even when coming into pits I'm bumping around 105 and that's not terrible, but it is higher than the regulated temp and means the radiator isn't keeping up.

Is this a big problem. Probably not. Would an oil cooler, the lower tray and upper rad cowl fix. Pretty much.

[Magpie]

G the undertray will make a big difference. Air will always find the path of least resistance and hence go around rather than through the radiator.

Are you seeking heat soak when you come into the pits?

[gslender]

G the undertray will make a big difference. Air will always find the path of least resistance and hence go around rather than through the radiator.

Are you seeking heat soak when you come into the pits?

Yep, by the time I do the cool down lap the cooling system is seeing 100-110 degree temps and as I dawdle into the pits it pokes around 110. Wasn't aware until I reviewed all run via logs that I've now seen that the consistent outcome is that the cooling system isn't effective for track work.

I agree I need to put back the under tray and this, along with oil cooling is what I'm going to do next.

[gslender]

This was the fastest run on the day 1:10.32s (which was my first run) and also did that with the steering wheel on crooked (yep, I didn't check when I installed it that the wheels were cocked to the right!!) - I also didn't have all my logging working either and is something I still need to work on etc.

[Magpie]

G have a ook at something like this http://www.racerindustries.com.au/afawcs0161690/CATID=247/ID=3872/SID=22324332/QuickCar-Water-Temperature-Warning-Light-Kit.html for both oil and water temp. They basically go off at a preset temp.

If you come to Dodgy day I can pass on the oil/water ones I had in my car as I have replaced them with proper sensors that are wired into the PS1000 to display on the IQ3 dash, plus I'm also doing oil pressure. I can program the dash to do the warning hence no need for the single warning lights. Plan will be to hide the Innovate gauges and just log the data from them I can adjust the data logging to compensate for any error in the sensors.

That steering wheel looks like it was difficult to drive with like that!

[gslender]

That steering wheel looks like it was difficult to drive with like that!

You would think so! .... but I did the best time of the day with it like that, so perhaps I should have left it that way !?

G

[sailaholic]

Do tray and rad plate before oil cooler. The factory one should be sufficient from what I've read for a reasonably standard car.


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