International Paints do a range of Marine paint that is for brush and roller application, called Toplac, single pack urethane
A bit pricier than the kill rust though.
I did a 26ft yacht by roller and didn't have to sand afterwards, the gloss off the roller was very good.
Killrust brush and roller paint job
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- Ross
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Cheers
Ross
1990 BRG V-Special, NB Koni sport with King springs, MS-03's
Ross
1990 BRG V-Special, NB Koni sport with King springs, MS-03's
- plohl
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Hmmmmmm.... the mx5 does need some new paint...
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plohl
plohl
- bruce
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
plohl wrote:Hmmmmmm.... the mx5 does need some new paint...
Same thoughts exactly...
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Second and third coats have gone on now. It's 100% opaque but there is orange peel and the odd run. I'll let it stand in the sun for a couple of days to let it harden up then sand it a bit. The photos don't do much for it this time around. Basically it looks the same but a bit glossier and it has a nice silver grill and colour matched centre caps.
TBH though if this was a track car I'd just leave it like this. From 5 meters away it looks absolutely amazing. If you get any closer you realise it's a bit like a bedroom door in a Fitroy terrace, but then again the car did already have about 50 dents in it too.
It makes you rethink the way you view paint on a car. An MX5 has about half the area of a 121 and it's missing 2 doors, a roof and B and C pillars. It would take less than half the time to mask and paint. I reckon you could turn around a shabby old MX5 for $50 in about 5 hours with a leisurely effort of an hour a day. With something like Killrust you get a palette of a few thousand colours from your local hardware shop. I know people on this forum can spend 5 hours washing and polishing an old MX5 and still end with a single boring Mazda colour. Anyone for red or silver? I've used Killrust on trailers and iron fences and it has stayed glossy for a few years without polish. I could repaint this car every couple of years, get a new colour or whole colour scheme each time and still be ahead on time and cost over Meguiars.
TBH though if this was a track car I'd just leave it like this. From 5 meters away it looks absolutely amazing. If you get any closer you realise it's a bit like a bedroom door in a Fitroy terrace, but then again the car did already have about 50 dents in it too.
It makes you rethink the way you view paint on a car. An MX5 has about half the area of a 121 and it's missing 2 doors, a roof and B and C pillars. It would take less than half the time to mask and paint. I reckon you could turn around a shabby old MX5 for $50 in about 5 hours with a leisurely effort of an hour a day. With something like Killrust you get a palette of a few thousand colours from your local hardware shop. I know people on this forum can spend 5 hours washing and polishing an old MX5 and still end with a single boring Mazda colour. Anyone for red or silver? I've used Killrust on trailers and iron fences and it has stayed glossy for a few years without polish. I could repaint this car every couple of years, get a new colour or whole colour scheme each time and still be ahead on time and cost over Meguiars.
’95 NA8
- plohl
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Looks mad dude. No doubt someone on here will be using this as a good resource to give a 5 a few coats of paint
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plohl
plohl
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Ross wrote:International Paints do a range of Marine paint that is for brush and roller application, called Toplac, single pack urethane
A bit pricier than the kill rust though.
I did a 26ft yacht by roller and didn't have to sand afterwards, the gloss off the roller was very good.
I should have researched that further first. Killrust stays plastic for an hour or two after painting so you really need to go thin to avoid runs and that makes it hard to manage the orange peel.
Apu wrote:If you need anything for this job, please list it and I'm sure we will be able to contribute where we can.
Thanks Brian, but all the stuff is bought and most of the work is done. This is actually a procrastination project anyway. There are 20 other things I should be doing, including putting a new head on the car in the background.
Roadrunner wrote:This is simply amazing and well done for doing this for the young girl. Does she know your doing this or is it a surprise?
I'd better make this clear that the generous one is the owner. She's being good to the girl and she's been very good to us and we're happily repaying the kindness.
’95 NA8
- bruce
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Time to wrap this up now. I gave the little car its final coat yesterday and tidied it all up today. In all it’s had:
- Peeling clear and colour coats scraped off
- 120 dry sand with an orbital sander
- 2 coats of primer
- 400 wet hand sand
- 3 build coats of gloss
- 400 wet hand sand (which failed)
- 400 dry hand sand
- 1 finish coat of gloss and
- About 15 hours of labour
It will get a protective coat of wax in a few days but it won’t get any polishing or buffing. The paint is glossy and smooth enough already, at least for its intended purpose. It’s definitely not a showroom shine. There’s very slight orange peel all over but it has its own attractiveness like that, sort of like the patina on old furniture. The paint itself is rock hard so it bodes well for a life of city parking.
This has been a pretty nice little project to do. Apart from the orbital sanding at the start there have been no power tools, no sprays, no compressors, no noise and no fuss. It was just all quiet tinkering sort of work out in the winter sun in the backyard using pretty cheap stuff from my local hardware shop. It all broke up into simple one hour sessions over a couple of weeks. I could start and stop pretty much as I liked and even be able to use the car.
The finish you get is really proportional to how much work you want to put into it. I only did four coats and sanded the colour coats once. If you did 10 coats and sanded after every coat or two then your painting and thinning techniques would improve to the point where you could get to something close to a quality spray job.
Painting the whole car takes about an hour per coat but you go over each panel 3 times in the process. Killrust stays plastic for an hour or so in winter. You start by laying each coat down with vertical then horizontal strokes using a high density foam 4” roller, just as you would with a wall. This first cover is horribly bubbly. You move on to the next panel and then come back to the first 10 minutes later when it’s starting to get a bit tacky and lightly roll it again to take out the bubbles. This leaves a peely finish which you hit again 10 minutes later again to leave a smooth flat finish. Over the next half hour this smoothes itself out to leave a pretty good gloss.
Conventional masking tape is like crepe. Killrust seeps in everywhere and it bleeds badly under normal tape. Cheap electrical tape works a lot better and works better around tight curves too. As you get used to using the roller you get really accurate with it, so 12mm tape is easily wide enough for masking.
The primer coats sand off easily by hand with wet and dry 240 under the hose. The colour coats set rock hard in a day or so and wet sanding is almost impossible. I used a full sheet of 400 on each panel and barely made a dent in it. No fill Adalox was a lot easier to use: it cut much better and allowed me to see well enough to get the runs and peel out.
- Peeling clear and colour coats scraped off
- 120 dry sand with an orbital sander
- 2 coats of primer
- 400 wet hand sand
- 3 build coats of gloss
- 400 wet hand sand (which failed)
- 400 dry hand sand
- 1 finish coat of gloss and
- About 15 hours of labour
It will get a protective coat of wax in a few days but it won’t get any polishing or buffing. The paint is glossy and smooth enough already, at least for its intended purpose. It’s definitely not a showroom shine. There’s very slight orange peel all over but it has its own attractiveness like that, sort of like the patina on old furniture. The paint itself is rock hard so it bodes well for a life of city parking.
This has been a pretty nice little project to do. Apart from the orbital sanding at the start there have been no power tools, no sprays, no compressors, no noise and no fuss. It was just all quiet tinkering sort of work out in the winter sun in the backyard using pretty cheap stuff from my local hardware shop. It all broke up into simple one hour sessions over a couple of weeks. I could start and stop pretty much as I liked and even be able to use the car.
The finish you get is really proportional to how much work you want to put into it. I only did four coats and sanded the colour coats once. If you did 10 coats and sanded after every coat or two then your painting and thinning techniques would improve to the point where you could get to something close to a quality spray job.
Painting the whole car takes about an hour per coat but you go over each panel 3 times in the process. Killrust stays plastic for an hour or so in winter. You start by laying each coat down with vertical then horizontal strokes using a high density foam 4” roller, just as you would with a wall. This first cover is horribly bubbly. You move on to the next panel and then come back to the first 10 minutes later when it’s starting to get a bit tacky and lightly roll it again to take out the bubbles. This leaves a peely finish which you hit again 10 minutes later again to leave a smooth flat finish. Over the next half hour this smoothes itself out to leave a pretty good gloss.
Conventional masking tape is like crepe. Killrust seeps in everywhere and it bleeds badly under normal tape. Cheap electrical tape works a lot better and works better around tight curves too. As you get used to using the roller you get really accurate with it, so 12mm tape is easily wide enough for masking.
The primer coats sand off easily by hand with wet and dry 240 under the hose. The colour coats set rock hard in a day or so and wet sanding is almost impossible. I used a full sheet of 400 on each panel and barely made a dent in it. No fill Adalox was a lot easier to use: it cut much better and allowed me to see well enough to get the runs and peel out.
’95 NA8
- Okibi
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
Wattyl they think of next!
Looks great.
Looks great.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
- bruce
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Re: Killrust brush and roller paint job
U should tell Wattyl about this project.
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