What to waste a $1000 on?

NMX516 · Postby **NMX516** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:35 pm

A 4.3 torsen

You'll be amazed at the diff-erence

Sharper acceleration will ensue :wink:

Postby **orx626** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:02 pm

NMX516 wrote:A 4.3 torsen You'll be amazed at the diff-erence Sharper acceleration will ensue

Never a truer word spoken Gerard! :wink:

...unless you went with a 4.4 or higher! :twisted:

Cheers,
Danny

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:34 am

Great replies there thanks.

I suppose ill tell you my intentions with the car.

Its a daily dríven weekend warrior. I have 5 cars including one type4d sports sedan, 1990 pulsar rally car. Very quick car.
As for the diff in it now, its a stock poverty pack non lsd 1.6L one, which i thought was a 4.3 ratio standard? Someone please correct me on this one.

I dont plan on bigger brakes yet.

As for the paint, the car will definately need a paintjob in the next year or two but for now im thinking id prefer it was more competitive because a paintjob wont make me drive it harder lol.

In terms of money spending on it, im not celebrating spending a grand, i have a budget of about $500 a month. but more than that is unrealistic to spend on it i think, so this is month two.

With the megasquirt Im definately convinced that the MAF sensor is definately very restrictive and im confident to tune the car on a dyno that i have available for a very cheap price. This also allows for future upgrades.

As for semi slicks, I have a set already that ive used for a few track days, these are shared between the NA and my N13 pulsar.

Sasso · Postby **Sasso** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:21 pm

NMX516 wrote:A 4.3 torsen You'll be amazed at the diff-erence Sharper acceleration will ensue

He already has a 4.3....so same acceleration. Better handling though. But its crap with a turbo because you have to shift quite literally every 2-3 seconds. Its fine for dragging in a straight line but on a twisty road or track its annoying having to shift all the time, takes the enjoyment out of cornering.

I think you're pretty convinced with the MS. And if you can do it with your budget then great, it should make a nice difference to mid and low end torque. What makes you think taking the afm out makes a noticable difference? I've done it myself on a dyno and there was absolutely none.

Looks like MS or BD bar. You didn't tell us your plans for turbo?

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 1:05 pm

No more suggestions anybody else? Nolathane? Seat and harness.. nothing else?

Your NA is turbo? What diff ratio have you chosen?

Megasquirt power through the MAF because the flappy door used in the maf is being held partially closed by a strong spring. Its like a throttle butterfly always trying to push itself closed upstream of the real butterfly.

When you removed maf i assume you used temperature correced MAP? what computer was this on?

Cheers,
Dann

Sasso · Postby **Sasso** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:53 pm

yup.

Its not a maf, its an AFM, maf is used in the 1.8 cars and doesn't have a door.
Yeah it might seem like the door is stopping flow but its such a light spring on the door if you've ever felt it, its not heavy compared to the giant pump that is the engine. It is more likely that the small opening that the air goes through is more of a restriction than the door itself. But I literally did a dyno run, took the AFM out, did another one, and the results were identical. Don't expect to gain power from taking the AFM out, however getting the ECU tuned will give you more midrange torque, the stock ecu made the same peak power as the standalone that I'm running so don't expect much there either. It was a very noticable improvement in midrange and low rpm torque and engine reponse to throttle changes. Also the stock ecu runs very rich in high rpm so if you spend alot of time there you'll get better fuel economy with a tuned ecu.

I'm running a wolf 3D V500. Yep with map and air temp sensor.

So far I ran teh car with the 4.3 diff and it was higher G force acceleration in each gear but I had to shift literally every 2 seconds. and more importantly it disrupted my cornering. I now have a 4.1 torsen and its much better. It also depends what power you plan to run.

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:07 pm

Hey mate, i found your thread and im up to page 8. great stuff. Your car is basically identical to what im going for. but im just 19 and red p's so ill probably do what i did with my rally car and just slowly build up a block outside of a car.

So i gather that you would agree with me putting in the full plethora of chassis bracing and then getting a MSPnP for funsies and future upgrades?

Another question is there much point replacing the intake pipe between the AFM and the throttle body?

Cheers i appreciate your help and opinion.

Dann

Sasso · Postby **Sasso** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:41 pm

NitroDann wrote:Hey mate, i found your thread and im up to page 8. great stuff. Your car is basically identical to what im going for. but im just 19 and red p's so ill probably do what i did with my rally car and just slowly build up a block outside of a car.

So i gather that you would agree with me putting in the full plethora of chassis bracing and then getting a MSPnP for funsies and future upgrades?

Another question is there much point replacing the intake pipe between the AFM and the throttle body?

Cheers i appreciate your help and opinion.

Dann

Wow you didn't get bored by page 8 lol, thats pretty good, even with all my girlfriend's bitching at Alex Lyle? (jks hehe), only another 21 to go. There is some interesting stuff scattered throughout it if you cbf to go through it. Yeah page 8 is a good one, as you can see from the plots, I wasn't joking about the 2 seconds in each gear. Since page 8 my engine exploded and I've only now put the turbo back on, but this time the piston ring didn't let go.

Oh well if you're doing what I'm doing with my car then I can tell you exactly what to do, and what not to do. Yeah right now I don't think you should do anything power related until you do craploads of research on turbocharging and have some sort of plan. eg, you might like the MS now because its cheap, but you might later want a haltech or something, so you'll have to buy an ecu twice....which is a waste.

Keep practicing on the track with your stock engine power, trust me its just as fun as it is with a turbo! It makes you concentrate on braking and cornering to get the most out of the car, turbo's great if you've already done that and are looking to beat much more expensive and powerful cars like evo's etc..

Basically spend your money getting the car prepared to handle a turbo. That is brace the crap out of it, get you chassis and suspension sorted first, so replace all your bushes and bush bolts, you already have coilovers and sway bars so that's good. The car should handle like a dream. Then make a plan from there what to upgrade. I'll admit I put the turbo back on too early, if I were to do it again I'd spend money on the parts necessary to get it sustainable/reliable on the track first. So many people make out that turbocharging can be done cheaply. That's completely false since you need to tune and engineer and insure it, and that already costs a few grand so there goes the cheapness, so many hidden costs.

Then basically you have to do everything at once, bang whack all the turbo parts on, and the list goes on and on; cooling, diff, fuel, kit, installation, tyres, tuning, engineering, insurance etc. ANd on top of that prepare for the worst, engine failure...have enough to get a new engine and be able to swap it.

I'd go, BD bar, cams approved. FM butterfly brace (awesome), underbody braces front and rear, strut braces and brake master stopper. Thats for starters. Then I'd get all bushes replaced, get the car up to scratch.

Nah no point replacing intake pipe, you're chasing tiny improvements that cost heaps, you're gonna replace it anyway later so dont bother buying things twice.

Gotta go to Mx5 dinner at ribs and rumps, talk later.