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What tool do you use for crimping ECU terminals on an NB loom?
I’ve been using a Delphi crimper that’s amazing for open barrel crimps (I’ll never solder again!). It crimps the 040 III Multilock terminals solidly but the crimp ends up being slightly too wide (pancaked) to fit in the socket. The crimp needs to be almost a square shape.
I googled 040 crimper and TE Connectivity sell one but at $800 I think I’ll pass

Been searching and came across a crimper from Jaycar that has changeable dies and “looks” the right shape but not sure.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/quick-change- ... p/p/TH2006

Is there a standard “go to” crimper for ecu terminals?

There's a video on the Haltech site, might help ... video, or this one ... another video specifically on crimping. That's as good as I can do!

I did find this page of crimping tools too.

I also use the Delphi tool as well as a Utilix 147A for open barrel splices. The Utilix tool can crimp slightly smaller barrels as well as rounded ones. Pretty sure I used it when crimping the TE multilock terminals for the ECU.
https://www.engineeringsupplies.com.au/product/147a

I've also got a generic ratcheting one that can have different dies fitted. Can't remember where I got that from. Might be similar to the Jaycar one but your link is broken.

Sorry this is the correct link (I always forget to put it in the URL tags)
https://www.jaycar.com.au/quick-change-crimp-tool-dies-26-18-awg-non-insulated-crimp/p/TH2006

It looks square edged as opposed to V shaped. Just not sure if it’s small enough.

This is the tool I use at the moment and you can see the teeth are quite V shaped to accept the open barrel crimps.
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12085271?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktJSpPwnGuiR8Q%3D%3D

This is the one I use with all my electronics:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Engineer-PAD-13-Open-Barrel-Crimper/dp/B00IWD9XKU
You can find them cheaper if you shop around - this link has lots of info on it.

I bought mine several years ago with the additional head and it cost a whopping A$300 back then.

You won't need a square-forming crimp tool, just one that crimps to a circular size that fits within the receptor.

That one looks pretty neat Lokiel. Is it spring loaded as well? I'm tempted to buy it.

There's a wire spring on the rear if that's what you mean.

I bought these after soviet from MT.net recommended them. If you've seen some of his wiring work/braiding, you'll know that he knows his stuff.

Yeah that's what I mean. The ones I've got have worked well for me but when crimping a lot of terminals my hands start to fatigue from having to constantly open them up again awkwardly with one hand after crimping.
I ended up finding a kit that was only slightly more expensive that buying the tool and the dies separately but it comes with a nice case

Pictures or "it didn't happen"!
(I really just want to see what you got)

Purchased this:


Link: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0 ... UTF8&psc=1

I ended up purchasing the Engineer PAD-13 from Rhino Tools in Sydney. First crimp in confirmed it was worth the money. Light yet very solid build.
I was a bit worried as I'm used to using ratcheting crimps and using the ratchet to hold the terminal while I line up the wire, but this held the terminal easily in place. I'd still use the Delphi tool for open barrel crimping as you kinda need 3 hands for that to make sure all wires on both sides are fully in, but as a terminal crimper I highly receommend the PAD13.
Thanks for the advice

Crimping Tip

I make factory-looking crimps using the tool I referred to earlier with this technique (I'm right handed):

1. Cut a pin from the roll but leave the break-off tab still on it (you might want to weaken it first by bending it back and forth a few times)
2. Strip the wire to the length needed
3. Use your left index finger-tip and thumb-tip to hold the pin and wire in place (pin's crimp tabs facing thumb)
Leaving the pin's break-off tab in place makes it MUCH easier to hold against the sheathed wire while making 2x crimps since you can easily hold the wire against it and make BOTH crimps.
4. Crimp the un-sheathed portion of the wire first since this prevents the pin from from bending-length-wise which happens if you do the sheathed portion first (crimp tool's "m" side facing finger)
5. Crimp the sheathed portion second (usually you'll need to use the next-largest crimp-tool slot to do this)
6. Break off the crimp's tab by bending it back and forth.

Some of you may be able to get away with removing the crimp's break-off tab right from the start but I find that too fiddly to hold everything in place while crimping.

Notes:
* DON'T add solder, it'll make the wires brittle
* Sometimes the end crimp-tabs on the pins are too long and you have to shorten them to prevent the crimp from bending incorrectly, instead of folding inward neatly on the wire's sheath. I just cut them down with side-cutters.
* Sometimes you need to "pre-squish" the tab's on the pins because they're too splayed to fit your crimp tool. I just use needle-nose pliers for this.

Excellent advice as always Lokiel!