NA with automatic power window?

ericson · Postby **ericson** » Sun Aug 06, 2017 11:02 pm

Hey guys,

I couldn't find any info on converting NA's simple power window switch (up or down) to "auto up or down" where you can roll the window down or up with one push like modern cars. Did anyone come across a conversion kit? Because I'm planning on designing my own intermediate circuit to make auto down/up happen.

Cheers
Eric

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Aug 07, 2017 12:49 am

Can't help with the wiring etc, but the Japanese models had auto up and down.
Can't remember if standard or optional, but my gfs na had it in there. (Switch from a Japanese wrecked car)

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Mon Aug 07, 2017 11:47 am

Believe the ADM NB (not sure if NB8A or NB8B) also had an auto PW switch - they come up for sale on here occasionally, but are popular.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Aug 07, 2017 12:49 pm

Aussie 8B probably, I can confirm the 8A doesn't.
Japanese models may have had it for both.

I only mentioned NA since by the time you've chopped and changed an NB switch to fit an NA you may as well have made one from scratch.

ericson · Postby **ericson** » Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:52 pm

hks_kansei wrote:... by the time you've chopped and changed an NB switch to fit an NA you may as well have made one from scratch.

Thanks guys, so no direct replacement without making hardware modification and yep I agree with above statement, plus designing my own circuit will keep me busy.

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:03 am

Believe hks is saying a JDM NA one should be a direct fit, if you can find one for sale.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Aug 08, 2017 12:27 pm

Correct.

ericson · Postby **ericson** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 8:43 pm

hks_kansei wrote:Correct.

Gotcha.

droo · Postby **droo** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:53 pm

I designed mine for driver and passenger side with audio feedback for start and end stop.
End stop detection with no additional wiring, interfaces into the existing loom with no cuts to wiring.

Brief touch starts motion (auto down/up)
Longer touch will move the window for the duration of the longer touch.
If brief touched, can be overridden by pressing longer in the direction of travel, or interrupted to opposite direction with brief touch (autoup) or long touch.

If the window is already up, it wont allow to be upped more, preventing excess motor loading.
If the window is already all the way down, it wont allow to be downed more, preventing excess motor loading.
If the auto up or auto down takes longer then 7 seconds, it will cut power with audio feedback, to prevent excess loading.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEkeeNpb9_A

Been working flawlessly in my car for over 2 years now.

ericson · Postby **ericson** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 1:41 pm

droo wrote:I designed mine for driver and passenger side with audio feedback for start and end stop.
End stop detection with no additional wiring, interfaces into the existing loom with no cuts to wiring.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEkeeNpb9_A

That's awesome! I couldn't find the mating connector for switch-side, how did you wire the switch-side connectors to the PCB?

I'm in process of designing my own circuit at the moment, and uses current sensing to determine whether the window is up/down/jammed. PCB's about 47mm by 33mm in size which will be mounted just to the right of the shifter underneath the centre console.

Capture.PNG

droo · Postby **droo** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 2:00 pm

Are you doing your own pcb shunt??!

Mine's current sensing too. Have the plug loom meeting a smaller connector that goes to the pcb.
Am using micro 20amp relays for the switching hardware.
(mine's not a standalone controller, its part of another that does my indicators, parklights, HL motor drives, headlights, loads of cabin lighting, remote central locking and other stuff) : )
I need to pull my finger out and design a board for it too, but after 2 years, its still working fine with no signs of issues.

ericson · Postby **ericson** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 2:31 pm

droo wrote:Are you doing your own pcb shunt??!

Mine's current sensing too. Have the plug loom meeting a smaller connector that goes to the pcb.
Am using micro 20amp relays for the switching hardware.

Ahh I see, I suppose using relays is much simpler to control the motors.

Hmm I wouldn't call them shunt. Instead, I'm using two half-bridge drivers per window which has a current sensing output; it outputs current in the order of few uA that is proportional to actual current (eg. if the motor is drawing 15A, the current sensing output current will be 15uA). And if the half-bridge driver is overloaded in case of a short-circuit or over-temperature, it outputs a constant 20uA or something to indicate a fault. The part number I'm using is BTN8982TA, take a look I'm sure you'll find them quite interesting

droo wrote:(mine's not a standalone controller, its part of another that does my indicators, parklights, HL motor drives, headlights, loads of cabin lighting, remote central locking and other stuff) : )

Nice! So you got yourself a Motec PDM of sort, mind if you take a photo of it? I'm from Electrical Eng background, so it kinda excites me a little when it comes to electronics. Speaking of, remote central locking is my next to-do on the list.

droo · Postby **droo** » Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:05 pm

This is my protoboard. looking all neat before an amount of wiring looms were made up that make an aftermarket ecu look simple.

Screen Shot 2017-10-12 at 12.26.13 pm.jpg

There are spacer mounts on the relay board, and more smaller relays mounted underneath this board.
The ones visible are driving the higher current load items.

Screen Shot 2017-10-12 at 12.26.34 pm.jpg