NA window switch replacement - same day, on a budget
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:35 am
Over the two years I've had my NA, the drivers window has progressively got slower. Returning from a drive a few days ago, it almost failed to go up at all. From what I've read on forums since then it seems this is a common problem. Seeing that some owners have fixed the issue by repairing or replacing the window switches in the console, I thought I'd start there. Although there are a number of threads in other forums that discuss this, two of which I refer to here, the ones I've seen involve the use of items not immediately available locally (i.e. Australia) - and I didn't want to be driving around for a couple of weeks with the window up (I don't have aircon) while waiting for parts to arrive. I recognise that OEM switch & loom assemblies are available from at least two forum sponsors (MX5 Mania & Automotive Plus), but my current budget couldn't stretch that far.
So, this has been written to make it easier to replace the power window switches using parts you may be able to buy at a local store, with a minimum of fabrication and modification and, as it turns out, a minimum of cost as well (~$60).
The first thing to do is remove the centre console and the switch assembly. There are plenty of good write ups on how to do this elsewhere, including one on the big forum (http://www.miata.net/garage/powerwin/index.html). Mine looked like this:
My initial goal was to inspect / repair the existing switch, following the above guide. After disassembly I saw this:
Although I have reasonable skill with a soldering iron, I couldn't build up the worn switch contacts with solder without also melting the supporting plastic:
After seeing the price of the OEM replacement loom, I starting looking into alternatives. I toyed with the idea of building a 'retro' switch assembly (see https://landwomble.wordpress.com/?s=retro+switches) but, as mentioned in the intro, some parts have longish lead times (specifically the hoop guards, which I considered essential given where the switches are located). Another disincentive, for me, was whether I really wanted that look - it's cool and all, but would that start me on a revision of other interior bits?
In the end, I searched for rocker switches that could replace the originals, and fit into the existing panel / bezel. I found the Narva 63044BL (pictured below) to have the right specs, including over 20 amp capacity at 12V. I will say now that I have no connection to the Narva company, it's just that these (and other items referred to) are all available at my local AutoBarn store.
There are other rocker switches available, but what i really like about these is that the cutout size (37.5 x 21mm) is very close to the cutouts in the OEM bezel - so not a lot of filing is needed to fit them. Here's my bezel after cutting the old rockers out and filing the openings to size:
As you can see in these two next shots, the switches are a great fit:
Now we come to the trickier bit, wiring them up. Start by cutting the wiring loom from the OEM switch circuit board (see the first photo), near the insulating tubing to give you as much slack as possible to play with. You'll find that the differing lengths of wire will tend to put them in about the right connection order later on. Strip and terminate each with insulated 6.3mm female clips, adding a 6-8cm long jumper. I found that yellow connectors were required for where the jumpers joined these original wires, but red connectors were large enough for the end of the jumpers. I didn't have appropriate insulated wire around so I had to buy that as well as the connectors, as shown in the following photo:
In Landwomble's retro switch build guide (above) he includes wiring instructions at https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Ba3QZ7heM6Rtsv_Hzn70WXOz6VCueFLc1FTeo32vxKg which I found quite useful. I've redrawn his layout a bit more clearly below, and labelled the matching connectors in a photo of the terminated wiring loom:
Using the above diagram and photo for reference, slide the clips onto the switch tabs. For the sake of clarity, the numbers in the diagram refer to the following wire colour codes in the loom:
1 - Green / White
2 - Red / White
3 - Red (power)
4 - Black (ground)
5 - Green / Blue
6 - Red / Blue
You should end up with something like this:
Before putting the assembly back in the centre console, I recommend plugging it into your car to test window operation. After putting everything back together again, you will have this (it turns out mine could do with a bit of a clean
):
While my drivers window is still a little slower than the passenger one, it's much better than it was when I bought the car, and hasn't got me rolling the dice everytime I use it. One day I'll get my hands dirty and take a look inside the door as well.
So, this has been written to make it easier to replace the power window switches using parts you may be able to buy at a local store, with a minimum of fabrication and modification and, as it turns out, a minimum of cost as well (~$60).
The first thing to do is remove the centre console and the switch assembly. There are plenty of good write ups on how to do this elsewhere, including one on the big forum (http://www.miata.net/garage/powerwin/index.html). Mine looked like this:
My initial goal was to inspect / repair the existing switch, following the above guide. After disassembly I saw this:
Although I have reasonable skill with a soldering iron, I couldn't build up the worn switch contacts with solder without also melting the supporting plastic:
After seeing the price of the OEM replacement loom, I starting looking into alternatives. I toyed with the idea of building a 'retro' switch assembly (see https://landwomble.wordpress.com/?s=retro+switches) but, as mentioned in the intro, some parts have longish lead times (specifically the hoop guards, which I considered essential given where the switches are located). Another disincentive, for me, was whether I really wanted that look - it's cool and all, but would that start me on a revision of other interior bits?
In the end, I searched for rocker switches that could replace the originals, and fit into the existing panel / bezel. I found the Narva 63044BL (pictured below) to have the right specs, including over 20 amp capacity at 12V. I will say now that I have no connection to the Narva company, it's just that these (and other items referred to) are all available at my local AutoBarn store.
There are other rocker switches available, but what i really like about these is that the cutout size (37.5 x 21mm) is very close to the cutouts in the OEM bezel - so not a lot of filing is needed to fit them. Here's my bezel after cutting the old rockers out and filing the openings to size:
As you can see in these two next shots, the switches are a great fit:
Now we come to the trickier bit, wiring them up. Start by cutting the wiring loom from the OEM switch circuit board (see the first photo), near the insulating tubing to give you as much slack as possible to play with. You'll find that the differing lengths of wire will tend to put them in about the right connection order later on. Strip and terminate each with insulated 6.3mm female clips, adding a 6-8cm long jumper. I found that yellow connectors were required for where the jumpers joined these original wires, but red connectors were large enough for the end of the jumpers. I didn't have appropriate insulated wire around so I had to buy that as well as the connectors, as shown in the following photo:
In Landwomble's retro switch build guide (above) he includes wiring instructions at https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Ba3QZ7heM6Rtsv_Hzn70WXOz6VCueFLc1FTeo32vxKg which I found quite useful. I've redrawn his layout a bit more clearly below, and labelled the matching connectors in a photo of the terminated wiring loom:
Using the above diagram and photo for reference, slide the clips onto the switch tabs. For the sake of clarity, the numbers in the diagram refer to the following wire colour codes in the loom:
1 - Green / White
2 - Red / White
3 - Red (power)
4 - Black (ground)
5 - Green / Blue
6 - Red / Blue
You should end up with something like this:
Before putting the assembly back in the centre console, I recommend plugging it into your car to test window operation. After putting everything back together again, you will have this (it turns out mine could do with a bit of a clean
):While my drivers window is still a little slower than the passenger one, it's much better than it was when I bought the car, and hasn't got me rolling the dice everytime I use it. One day I'll get my hands dirty and take a look inside the door as well.
