mx5cartalk.com

Hi,

I have a ms3x which came with a wire harness connector and I just needed to wire up the IAT and coolant sensors.

I can't seem to get any power to the ecu? the lights on the board are not powering up and the Tunerstudio can't even pick it up.

Am I missing something? Please help as the car is in bits.

Thanks in advance Roy.

Could you have temporarily shorted a wire and blown a fuse while you were swapping it over? Did you disconnect the battery first?

If it's like the NA electrics then the ROOM fuse in the fuse box near the accelerator pedal supplies the ECU with its low power needs and the MAIN fuse in the engine bay fuse box supplies its high power needs.

manga_blue wrote:Could you have temporarily shorted a wire and blown a fuse while you were swapping it over? Did you disconnect the battery first?

If it's like the NA electrics then the ROOM fuse in the fuse box near the accelerator pedal supplies the ECU with its low power needs and the MAIN fuse in the engine bay fuse box supplies its high power needs.

Thanks heaps I will check that in the morning I hope its something that simple! It is very likely it could be.

ROOM fuse also supplies the interior light, so there's an easy test for you.

Did the ECU power up OK with a 12V supply on the bench?

Also: http://www.yorbalindamiata.com/images/w ... 00wire.pdf Page Z-14 bottom left corner, check the power supply connections and wire colours to the "Engine Control System".

manga_blue wrote:ROOM fuse also supplies the interior light, so there's an easy test for you.

Did the ECU power up OK with a 12V supply on the bench?

Also: http://www.yorbalindamiata.com/images/w ... 00wire.pdf Page Z-14 bottom left corner, check the power supply connections and wire colours to the "Engine Control System".

I bought the kit from a forum member and was told it was brand new built from the states. I dont have a bench power supply should i invest in one??

All the fuses are fine when i plug the old ecu in it fires as normal.

I just use a car battery or a little 12V power adaptor from something like a router or shaver for bench tests. At this stage you'd probably be best off sitting with someone who has decent MS experience to test the harness and the build itself. My own experience is with modding stock ECUs and Adaptronic, so can't help much beyond that.

With complicated things like ecu's sensors and tuning, you either have to pay with your time to learn or with your wallet for professional service.

MSLabs2

1. Download the tuning software, TunerStudio, from:
http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads and install. Please ignore anything you may have read about “MegaTune” or
“EasyTherm”, it is not relevant to this ECU.
2. Download the drivers for your USB adapter and install. If we provided you with the
USB adapter cable, either install the drivers from the supplied mini-CD, or download
them from: http://prolificusa.com/files/PL2303_Pro ... v1_9_0.zip
3. All Basic MS2s currently ship with firmware version 3.3.2 beta 6. Please download
the .ini file for this ECU here: http://www.mslabs.gr/Basic_MS2_332b6.zip
4. Make sure to save the above file on your desktop and keep a copy somewhere in case
you need it again.
5. Unzip the file on your desktop. You should now have a file named “Basic MS2
332b6.ini”. This file describes the features available in this ECU to the tuning software,
TunerStudio. It is not a basemap. The basemap is already loaded inside the ECU.
6. 90-93 1.6L (US; 94-97 EU 1.6 as well) only: VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Remove the 10A
"ST SIGN" from the engine bay fuse box. If you do not do this, the ECU will be
damaged and you will not be able to start the car!!! If you do NOT have a variable TPS,
you should also disconnect your stock TPS from the car. The ECU will not be damaged
if you don't, however it will appear as if the ECU is not working at all.You will
need to fit a variable TPS to take full advantage of this ECU. A typical and
budget TPS is the Wells type 201.
The above does not apply if your car is a factory equipped 1.8L. It ONLY applies if your
car is an original 90-97 1.6L.
7. Remove the stock ECU
8. Run a vacuum line from the intake manifold, just after the throttle body,
to the ECU (the connection is under the DB37 socket). If you don't do this,
the car may not start at all, or may shoot black smoke out of the exhaust.
9. Connect the ECU to the stock harness.
10. If you want to use an IAT sensor, it must now be wired in.
• On the 99-05 (Non-MSM), simply replace the stock air temperature sensor found
on the air filter box with the IAT sensor. There is no polarity on the wires.
• On the MSM, the IAT sensor replaces the stock air sensor that is on the TB
elbow.
• On the US 90-93 1.6L (and European 94-97 1.6L), the IAT sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the AFM (Air Flow Meter). Disconnect the AFM, and pull
back the rubber boot of the AFM's connector. You should see 7 wires on it. The
IAT connects to the red/green and black/green wires. No polarity.
• On the 94-97 1.8L, the IAT sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the MAF
(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Disconnect the MAF, and pull back the rubber boot of
the MAF's connector. You should see 5 wires on it. The IAT connects to the
red/black and black/green wires. No polarity.
11. Switch the ignition to ON, do NOT start the car yet. When you switch the ignition to
ON, you should hear the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds. If you do not hear the fuel
pump priming:
• If your car is a 96-97 1.8L, you may need to change an internal jumper (JP1) on
the board. Some 96-97 1.8L cars don't have an immobilizer (US cars; Eunos
cars), some do (UK/EU cars). US/Eunos will need to set the jumper to position
“2-3: W/o immobilizer”. UK/EU will need to set the jumper to “1-2:
W/immobilizer”. This jumper is only available on the 96-97 1.8L version of the
ECU.
• If your car is a 99-00 (both 1.6L and 1.8L), you may need to change an internal
jumper (FPUMP) on the board. Some 99-00 cars don't have an immobilizer (US
cars; Eunos cars), some do (UK/EU cars). US/Eunos will need to set the jumper
to position “2-3: W/o immobilizer”. UK/EU will need to set the jumper to “1-2:
W/immobilizer”. This jumper is only available on the 99-00 version of the ECU.
12. Connect the USB cable to the PC. Windows should detect and install your
cable.
13. After the device has been installed successfully, open the Device Manager
(Control Panel -> System -> Hardware -> Device Manager) and click "Ports" to
see which COM port it is under (usually between COM1 and COM10).
14. Save the attached .ini file on your Desktop.
15. We are ready to connect to the ECU. Run TunerStudio.
16. Click File -> New Project
17. Give your project a name - anything will do.
18. Under ECU definition, click "Other" and browse to the .ini file you saved on
your desktop.
19. Click Next
20. Select:
• Oxygen Sensor: Wideband / AFR
• Temperature display: Celcius/Farenheit (whatever works for you)
• CAN COMMANDS: Activated
• EGTFULL: Deactivated
• PORT_STATUS: Deactivated
• OUTMSG_EDITING: Deactivated
21. Click Next
22. Under Port, select the COM port you found the USB cable to be under (ie
probably COM1 through 10)
23. Click "Test Port" - you should get "Successfull". If not, try with other
ports until you succeed.
24. Click Next.
25. Select the gauge style you want
26. Click Finish
27. You should see the gauges and you should be in Online mode.
28. Calibrate your TPS (if you have a variable TPS): Tools -> Calibrate TPS.
Do not press the throttle at all, and click the top "Get Current". Then press
the throttle fully, and click the bottom "Get Current" button. The click
Close. Now when you slowly press the throttle, the "Throttle Position"
indication should slowly go from 0% to 100%.
29. 90-97 cars must ABSOLUTELY set their base timing with a timing light!!!
99-05 cars will have a 0.5-2 degrees variance - you can drive the car in
low/medium revs/loads and you shouldn't have a problem, however you should
still set the base timing.
30. There are 7 wires on the back connector (depending on your request):
• White/red – Fused 12V supply for your wideband
• Black/Yellow - Wideband heater ground (LC-1; normal ground for any other
wideband or accessory)
• Black/Green - System ground (LC-1 ONLY) or sensor ground
• Yellow - Wideband input. Connect this to your wideband analog output
• Green - Boost control output, port PA0. Connect this to a boost control valve.
The other wire of the boost control valve needs to be connected to a switched
and fused 12V source. A 5A fuse is recommended.
• Grey – Switchable map or launch control, port FLEX. Connect this to a ground
(through an on/off switch) to switch between VE/Ignition tables. (Not available on
the 99-00).
• Orange – Programmable out put, port ALED. Optional programmable output. This is a
“low side” output. When this output activates, it grounds whatever is connected to the
orange cable. It does NOT provide 12V; your device must already be connected to a
switched 12V source. Do not connect devices that draw more than 500mA of current;
use the output to drive a relay instead. (Not available on the 99-00).
• Setting the base timing:
1. Run TunerStudio and open your project
2. Make sure you are in Online mode
3. Go to Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder.
4. Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing"
5. Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to "10".
6. Click Burn (if running, the engine may die at this point)
7. Switch the ignition off and on again.
8. Start the car
9. The crank pulley on the 99-05 has two marks on it. The left mark should align
with the "10" sign just behing the pulley, while the right mark should align with
the "T" mark behind the pulley. On the 90-97, there is only one mark, which
should align with the “10” mark.
10. Go to Ignition Settings -> Trigger Wizard
11. Press the "-" and "+" buttons until both marks on the pulley are properly aligned.
On the 90-97, there is only mark, so that should align with “10”.
12. Press Burn when you are done. The engine may die.
13. Go to Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder.
14. Set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table" and click Burn
15. Switch the ignition off and on again - this is very important, if you don't do it,
car will not start.
16. Start the car - the base timing is now set properly!
are now ready to start the car and tune!
• Basic considerations for autotune (“VE Analyze Live” aka VEAL)
◦ Don't let VEAL autotune your idle – in most cases you will get a hunting (oscilla
idle as if your car has aggressive cams. To fix this, go to “VE Analyze Live” →
Advanced Settings ->Min RPM and set it to 1500rpm.
◦ VEAL also likes to pull fuel on the very low load areas and as a result, after
autotuning for a while the car may hesisate at very low loads. To fix this, go to “VE
Analyze Live” → Advanced Settings ->Min fuelload and set it to 30kPa.
◦ For the first 20 minutes of autotuning, set “Cell Change Resistance” to “Easy” t
some quick results. Then set it back to “Normal”.
◦ As you go along and you are happy with the results, increase the Resistance
setting above even more.
◦ To get good results with VEAL, you need to drive VERY smoothly, as if you were
driving on ice. This means very smooth transitions on the throttle.
◦ Make sure you sweep all areas of the fuel map by setting a fuel load target (ad
your right foot on the throttle so the fuel load remains constant while driving) thsweep through the entire RPM range up to the rev limiter. For example, try to
achieve a constant 50% fuel load with the throttle while the RPMs increase. Reas many times needed for this particular fuel load target.
◦ Start from 40% and increase the fuel load target by 10% each time, until your
maximum achievable fuel load has been reached.
◦ If you can't reach the rev limiter with very low fuel loads (ie 40%, 50%), use a logear (1st, 2nd, etc).
◦ Keep your eye on the AFR gauge – if it is too lean (especially under load) step
the throttle and add some fuel manually to the map before proceeding any furth◦ Make sure “Update Controller” is enabled.
◦ Click “Burn” every 5 minutes to make sure you don't lose any progress if your
laptop dies of battery or crashes, etc

Superman post!

Ruffian147 wrote:MSLabs2

1. Download the tuning software, TunerStudio, from:
http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads and install. Please ignore anything you may have read about “MegaTune” or
“EasyTherm”, it is not relevant to this ECU.
2. Download the drivers for your USB adapter and install. If we provided you with the
USB adapter cable, either install the drivers from the supplied mini-CD, or download
them from: http://prolificusa.com/files/PL2303_Pro ... v1_9_0.zip
3. All Basic MS2s currently ship with firmware version 3.3.2 beta 6. Please download
the .ini file for this ECU here: http://www.mslabs.gr/Basic_MS2_332b6.zip
4. Make sure to save the above file on your desktop and keep a copy somewhere in case
you need it again.
5. Unzip the file on your desktop. You should now have a file named “Basic MS2
332b6.ini”. This file describes the features available in this ECU to the tuning software,
TunerStudio. It is not a basemap. The basemap is already loaded inside the ECU.
6. 90-93 1.6L (US; 94-97 EU 1.6 as well) only: VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Remove the 10A
"ST SIGN" from the engine bay fuse box. If you do not do this, the ECU will be
damaged and you will not be able to start the car!!! If you do NOT have a variable TPS,
you should also disconnect your stock TPS from the car. The ECU will not be damaged
if you don't, however it will appear as if the ECU is not working at all.You will
need to fit a variable TPS to take full advantage of this ECU. A typical and
budget TPS is the Wells type 201.
The above does not apply if your car is a factory equipped 1.8L. It ONLY applies if your
car is an original 90-97 1.6L.
7. Remove the stock ECU
8. Run a vacuum line from the intake manifold, just after the throttle body,
to the ECU (the connection is under the DB37 socket). If you don't do this,
the car may not start at all, or may shoot black smoke out of the exhaust.
9. Connect the ECU to the stock harness.
10. If you want to use an IAT sensor, it must now be wired in.
• On the 99-05 (Non-MSM), simply replace the stock air temperature sensor found
on the air filter box with the IAT sensor. There is no polarity on the wires.
• On the MSM, the IAT sensor replaces the stock air sensor that is on the TB
elbow.
• On the US 90-93 1.6L (and European 94-97 1.6L), the IAT sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the AFM (Air Flow Meter). Disconnect the AFM, and pull
back the rubber boot of the AFM's connector. You should see 7 wires on it. The
IAT connects to the red/green and black/green wires. No polarity.
• On the 94-97 1.8L, the IAT sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the MAF
(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Disconnect the MAF, and pull back the rubber boot of
the MAF's connector. You should see 5 wires on it. The IAT connects to the
red/black and black/green wires. No polarity.
11. Switch the ignition to ON, do NOT start the car yet. When you switch the ignition to
ON, you should hear the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds. If you do not hear the fuel
pump priming:
• If your car is a 96-97 1.8L, you may need to change an internal jumper (JP1) on
the board. Some 96-97 1.8L cars don't have an immobilizer (US cars; Eunos
cars), some do (UK/EU cars). US/Eunos will need to set the jumper to position
“2-3: W/o immobilizer”. UK/EU will need to set the jumper to “1-2:
W/immobilizer”. This jumper is only available on the 96-97 1.8L version of the
ECU.
• If your car is a 99-00 (both 1.6L and 1.8L), you may need to change an internal
jumper (FPUMP) on the board. Some 99-00 cars don't have an immobilizer (US
cars; Eunos cars), some do (UK/EU cars). US/Eunos will need to set the jumper
to position “2-3: W/o immobilizer”. UK/EU will need to set the jumper to “1-2:
W/immobilizer”. This jumper is only available on the 99-00 version of the ECU.
12. Connect the USB cable to the PC. Windows should detect and install your
cable.
13. After the device has been installed successfully, open the Device Manager
(Control Panel -> System -> Hardware -> Device Manager) and click "Ports" to
see which COM port it is under (usually between COM1 and COM10).
14. Save the attached .ini file on your Desktop.
15. We are ready to connect to the ECU. Run TunerStudio.
16. Click File -> New Project
17. Give your project a name - anything will do.
18. Under ECU definition, click "Other" and browse to the .ini file you saved on
your desktop.
19. Click Next
20. Select:
• Oxygen Sensor: Wideband / AFR
• Temperature display: Celcius/Farenheit (whatever works for you)
• CAN COMMANDS: Activated
• EGTFULL: Deactivated
• PORT_STATUS: Deactivated
• OUTMSG_EDITING: Deactivated
21. Click Next
22. Under Port, select the COM port you found the USB cable to be under (ie
probably COM1 through 10)
23. Click "Test Port" - you should get "Successfull". If not, try with other
ports until you succeed.
24. Click Next.
25. Select the gauge style you want
26. Click Finish
27. You should see the gauges and you should be in Online mode.
28. Calibrate your TPS (if you have a variable TPS): Tools -> Calibrate TPS.
Do not press the throttle at all, and click the top "Get Current". Then press
the throttle fully, and click the bottom "Get Current" button. The click
Close. Now when you slowly press the throttle, the "Throttle Position"
indication should slowly go from 0% to 100%.
29. 90-97 cars must ABSOLUTELY set their base timing with a timing light!!!
99-05 cars will have a 0.5-2 degrees variance - you can drive the car in
low/medium revs/loads and you shouldn't have a problem, however you should
still set the base timing.
30. There are 7 wires on the back connector (depending on your request):
• White/red – Fused 12V supply for your wideband
• Black/Yellow - Wideband heater ground (LC-1; normal ground for any other
wideband or accessory)
• Black/Green - System ground (LC-1 ONLY) or sensor ground
• Yellow - Wideband input. Connect this to your wideband analog output
• Green - Boost control output, port PA0. Connect this to a boost control valve.
The other wire of the boost control valve needs to be connected to a switched
and fused 12V source. A 5A fuse is recommended.
• Grey – Switchable map or launch control, port FLEX. Connect this to a ground
(through an on/off switch) to switch between VE/Ignition tables. (Not available on
the 99-00).
• Orange – Programmable out put, port ALED. Optional programmable output. This is a
“low side” output. When this output activates, it grounds whatever is connected to the
orange cable. It does NOT provide 12V; your device must already be connected to a
switched 12V source. Do not connect devices that draw more than 500mA of current;
use the output to drive a relay instead. (Not available on the 99-00).
• Setting the base timing:
1. Run TunerStudio and open your project
2. Make sure you are in Online mode
3. Go to Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder.
4. Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing"
5. Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to "10".
6. Click Burn (if running, the engine may die at this point)
7. Switch the ignition off and on again.
8. Start the car
9. The crank pulley on the 99-05 has two marks on it. The left mark should align
with the "10" sign just behing the pulley, while the right mark should align with
the "T" mark behind the pulley. On the 90-97, there is only one mark, which
should align with the “10” mark.
10. Go to Ignition Settings -> Trigger Wizard
11. Press the "-" and "+" buttons until both marks on the pulley are properly aligned.
On the 90-97, there is only mark, so that should align with “10”.
12. Press Burn when you are done. The engine may die.
13. Go to Ignition Settings -> Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder.
14. Set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table" and click Burn
15. Switch the ignition off and on again - this is very important, if you don't do it,
car will not start.
16. Start the car - the base timing is now set properly!
are now ready to start the car and tune!
• Basic considerations for autotune (“VE Analyze Live” aka VEAL)
◦ Don't let VEAL autotune your idle – in most cases you will get a hunting (oscilla
idle as if your car has aggressive cams. To fix this, go to “VE Analyze Live” →
Advanced Settings ->Min RPM and set it to 1500rpm.
◦ VEAL also likes to pull fuel on the very low load areas and as a result, after
autotuning for a while the car may hesisate at very low loads. To fix this, go to “VE
Analyze Live” → Advanced Settings ->Min fuelload and set it to 30kPa.
◦ For the first 20 minutes of autotuning, set “Cell Change Resistance” to “Easy” t
some quick results. Then set it back to “Normal”.
◦ As you go along and you are happy with the results, increase the Resistance
setting above even more.
◦ To get good results with VEAL, you need to drive VERY smoothly, as if you were
driving on ice. This means very smooth transitions on the throttle.
◦ Make sure you sweep all areas of the fuel map by setting a fuel load target (ad
your right foot on the throttle so the fuel load remains constant while driving) thsweep through the entire RPM range up to the rev limiter. For example, try to
achieve a constant 50% fuel load with the throttle while the RPMs increase. Reas many times needed for this particular fuel load target.
◦ Start from 40% and increase the fuel load target by 10% each time, until your
maximum achievable fuel load has been reached.
◦ If you can't reach the rev limiter with very low fuel loads (ie 40%, 50%), use a logear (1st, 2nd, etc).
◦ Keep your eye on the AFR gauge – if it is too lean (especially under load) step
the throttle and add some fuel manually to the map before proceeding any furth◦ Make sure “Update Controller” is enabled.
◦ Click “Burn” every 5 minutes to make sure you don't lose any progress if your
laptop dies of battery or crashes, etc

my goodness that was a great read!!!! Thanks so much for that! So my car runs fine when the old ecu is in? Should the ign sign fuse be blown? Would that mean i ruined the board? Cause the ecu never switched on not even the fuel pump etc.

And yep Dann i agree i need to figure out which way is going to work better haha.

And thanks mate i will check it with a 12V later this week.

Ok so i had a chance to play around with it again today. I un0luged the alarm and tried that but still no love.. i also figured that its getting power as all the sensors and injectors make noise when its plugged in. There is still no light on the ecu or any sort of sign that its plugging upto the computer.

Multimeter and a circuit diagram. Can you remember exactly what you did plugging it in? Setup something to bench test it.

Magpie wrote:Multimeter and a circuit diagram. Can you remember exactly what you did plugging it in? Setup something to bench test it.

Would you belive that it was my laptop the whole time? Ffs the ampunt of sh*t we went through to get it working and in the end all i needed was the correct driver!! Haha. Car starts and all works sweet! Only thing i need now is the proper driver to do a actual tune!
Thanks so much for every one's help!
Next step itbs!