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Those of you reading between the lines of my post relating to my Haltech install experience will know it hasn't been straightforward.

Yesterday, although the motor turned over and all other electrics seemed to work, there wasn't the usual noise from the fuel pump and there were no lights on the Haltech, and the car wouldn't start.

One towtruck to the Haltech and fuel pump installer later, and four hours later he can't restore the power.

I only got the car back to him because he was close and there was no point taking a car with these modifications to a standard mechanic, and yes, I know I need a different Haltech person to finalise the tune, when I can get round to that.

Meanwhile, any thoughts on what needs to be done to restore power to the ECU and fuel pump?

A couple of other possibly relevant factors:
Despite allegedly getting the right model of Haltech, the installers ended up modifying the alternator so it would work with the ECU.
Partly, I think, because the OEM ECU bash plate wasn't put back in place after the Haltech was installed, the a/c drain pipe had been off the casing above the ECU for a few days before the non-start, meaning the floor under the ECU was damp/wet.

Further info I've just remembered:

The Haltech installer thought he remembered his auto electrician having to do a non-standard wiring of the fuel pump so it was not controlled by the Haltech?????

Is there any possibility that the haltech isn't returning an immobiliser signal and allowing the fuel pump to start? That was the problem with my Megasquirt, since the 99-00 model cars didn't have an immobiliser in the USA where the ecu was made. Just needed to move a jumper to 'Europe fuel pump' and it worked. Wouldn't think a name like Haltech would have problems like that since it's a much broader market, but still. Just an idea.

Trackphotos wrote:Is there any possibility that the haltech isn't returning an immobiliser signal and allowing the fuel pump to start? That was the problem with my Megasquirt, since the 99-00 model cars didn't have an immobiliser in the USA where the ecu was made. Just needed to move a jumper to 'Europe fuel pump' and it worked. Wouldn't think a name like Haltech would have problems like that since it's a much broader market, but still. Just an idea.

Frankly, anything is possible given the other issues there have been and still remain with this install. However, there are no lights on the Haltech thus no power to it thus it can't send an immobiliser signal. Perfectly possible once there is power to the Haltech that it still won't send such a signal, and such a double fault would be completely normal with this install.

I assume that the fuses have been checked? The Haltech has its own fuse box.

Have you checked the power coming in with a multimeter or test light?

Magpie wrote:I assume that the fuses have been checked? The Haltech has its own fuse box.

Have you checked the power coming in with a multimeter or test light?

Yes. Thanks for the thought.

davekmoore wrote:...the a/c drain pipe had been off the casing above the ECU for a few days before the non-start, meaning the floor under the ECU was damp/wet.

Dave, hate to say it but I think that the ECU &/or wiring loom got wet.

93_Clubman wrote:

davekmoore wrote:...the a/c drain pipe had been off the casing above the ECU for a few days before the non-start, meaning the floor under the ECU was damp/wet.

Dave, hate to say it but I think that the ECU &/or wiring loom got wet.

Thanks for the thought and it would be logical, but ECU works fine on another car and wiring loom is off the floor and dry.
Auto electrician there tomorrow.

Would appreciate any other thoughts as I need the auto elec to get the car running again tomorrow without him and the Haltech guy blaming each other again for it being off the road for longer?

Do you have a test light or a multimeter? Is the battery fully charged?

I may have missed what ECU you have and the following is for a PS1000.

Pin 11 [R/W] on the 26 Pin connector is the switched supply from ECU Power Relay. With the ignition on is there power to this pin?

There ia a fuse box with 2 x 20A, 1 x 15A and 1 x 10A fuses. The [R/G], [R] and [R/W] on the battery side should always be live as they are hooked direct to the positive of the battery. What is the voltage here or does the test light work when any of these wires are grounded to the same ground as the ECU (pin 10,11 on the 34 pin connector). There are also 4 x relays that take the power and feed the fuel pump, Ignition, Injectors and ECU.

I would test from the battery towards the ECU to make sure it is getting power.

Thanks Magpie. Have forwarded this to the Haltech guy.

Fuses already checked by him. Dunno about the relays.

Anyone else with any experience of anything like this?

Odd that it works ok in another car. Stupid question but what about the main fuel relay / fuse in the engine bay.

Did you get sorted with the reason why it's was draining the battery all the time? Is it direct wired or still through the existing ecu wiring?


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Despite what you said, my vote is for a wet ecu. Can you open the case without voiding the warranty? It may work intermittently (be OK for a bit in another car), but that's electronics for you.

Relay. Swap in known working/new.

Could be ECU given there was water around, but if it works (ie it actually runs another car) I'd be looking elsewhere, and it looks like the relay hasn't been checked.

As a sidenote, I always have a spare relay mounted for when one fails, because they are something of a consumable and in a racecar it is easier/quicker to switch the plug on the relay than to replace the relay.

Good luck Dave.



ETA: What is the last work done on the car/done around the ECU, since is was last running? That is usually a good way of narrowing the diagnostics. If the answer is nothing, then you can probably bet water is part of the answer to the problem.

Burnt out EFI relay replaced with higher spec one. Sorted. Thanks for all the advice.