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Hey guys, I have an NA8.

Throughout the time I've owned it (~3 months now), the windows progressively got slower to go up and down especially the driver's side. As of yesterday it only goes down and not up anymore. I made it go all the way down last night to point a few things and now it's stuck there forever.

Took the door trim off and to see if I can fix it, seems out of my depth. What I do know is that the switch works fine; sends 12.4V to the motor.

Just wondering if there is a recommended auto electrician/mechanic around Melbourne, preferably south east Melbourne that can fix this? If any members wanna have a go they can be paid in alcohol or whatever haha!

Even though you measured the voltage of the switch, try cleaning/inspecting/replacing it just in case.

They are renowned for playing up.

http://www.miata.net/garage/CleaningSwitch.html

There are always two things that slows or stops the windows.

1) how clean the switch contacts are. Seeing 12v means little as it is current that moves the motor and browned / dirty contacts acts as a resistor. Clean the switch contacts with a gentle file.

2) how clean the window slides are. I find a spray with silicon lube helps, but eventually you need to remove the entire assembly clean out the gunk and re-lube.


Best of luck

G


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Try to use some WD40 and white grease on the rail, it might help, this is how I fix the slow window and noise.

Yeah looks like I'll have to give the switches a clean.

Regarding the slides and rail, I have tried spraying it with some silicon grease. No avail. I will probably end up taking it apart and clean + re-grease it anyways as I am the "do it once do it properly" type

I do have a feeling it's because of the non stop Melbourne rain these few days must have corroded or soaked something.

Slow window are a known issue.
You need to clean like gslender and others suggested. Clean your tracks. Re-lube them.

A give away is when it's been raining, and all of a sudden the windows work better.
Putting wd40 or silicon spray down there is temporary.
It might take 2 hrs work or so.
Door card, windows, tracks, everything needs to come out. Sit back & enjoy a beer while you do it.

Agree with all the responses re: cleaning the switches and the tracks etc.

Before you get to all that if you want to get the windows back up - take off the door card (pretty simple and quick) and locate the connector for the window wiring in the door - disconnect the connector and connect a 12v supply to the wires to the window motor - window should wind up (if they don't - connect the 12v supply wires opposite to what you just tried and they will go up).

You may need a new switch where the controls are - I have been having this issue with my '89 NA6 and will get it rectified when in for service later this month - sometimes no up or down with both windows but currently I had no issue this morning with the left side one!

I have been informed NEVER to put them up or down on ignition only, always have the engine running, something to do with voltage being 14 or so with motor running compared to less without - I'm no expert and don't profess to be - just what's been said to me

Good luck!

I have to dismantle and clean the switches about every two years in my NA8. It turns into a 15 minute job after the first couple of times. Greasing the slides has had minimal effect compared to cleaning the switches.

zero00 wrote:I have been informed NEVER to put them up or down on ignition only, always have the engine running, something to do with voltage being 14 or so with motor running compared to less without - I'm no expert and don't profess to be - just what's been said to me

Good luck!

Mine will not work at all unless the engine is running. Is this not normal?

I spoke with the guys at Automotive Plus the other day regarding this, on just 'ignition' there is not the available voltage or whatever you call it as when the engine is running - now I could be wrong, as I usually am, that a 12v system delivers around 14v when running whereas lower when not running, an expert will come along and clarfify this

A couple of owners have told me not to do the job on only ignition

Anyways, you guys were completely right. Culprit was the contact points. Gave them a good clean with a toothbrush and carby cleaner.

Picture shows one side clean and other side dirty. Most upper left contact points (coincidentally the one for window up on driver's side) is not looking too good anyways and will need a change in near future.

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Gladiator wrote:

zero00 wrote:I have been informed NEVER to put them up or down on ignition only, always have the engine running, something to do with voltage being 14 or so with motor running compared to less without - I'm no expert and don't profess to be - just what's been said to me

Good luck!

Mine will not work at all unless the engine is running. Is this not normal?

That is actually not normal. Should still be able to go up and down with keys to ignition (1 before cranking engine), however stated as not recommended. I tested my voltage at 12.4V to the window motor with engine off so should be running ~14V with engine on.

TurboDoseBro wrote:Most upper left contact points (coincidentally the one for window up on driver's side) is not looking too good anyways and will need a change in near future.:

It's not thaaat bad. Next time you do it you can melt a bit of solder onto it. That'll give it another 10 years.

If you want to fix it forever, buy some electrical Carbon Contact Grease from Jaycar. This will eliminate burnt carbon build up and ensure a good electrical connection.


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