mx5cartalk.com

So here's the story, (sry about the looong post)

New alarm was installed today by a certified electrician.
After the install was complete we tested the sensitivity of the sensors, the remote boot open, the immobiliser etc etc
Everything was fine EXCEPT, the passenger door now won't lock/unlock using the original remote OR the aftermarket remote OR by turning the key
The central lock system has always worked like a charm without fail

The electrician then pulled my door apart
He stripped the wire AFTER the attenuator and just before the actual lock itself (he wanted to test if there is a current passing through the attenuator)
So with the wire stripped, he connected his voltage tester to the positive and negative wires
When the lock/unlock buttons are pressed on the remote, there IS A CURRENT
The electrician swore by his life that it is a dead attenuator as there is a current passing the attenuator but NOTHING IS HAPPENING!

I got home and did a few searches here, many people have had the same problem with a single door not responding to the central locking system
I have changed the fuse (i took the 10amp one from "Radio" and swapped it with the "D. Lock" one)
btw, IF THERE IS A CURRENT PASSING THROUGH TO THE ATTENUATOR, does this mean IT'S NOT RELATED TO THE FUSE?!
Anyhow, i then called the electrician and said that "Other MX5 owners have had the same problem and have successfully fixed the issue by adjusting the rod...the magnet...etc etc."
trying my best to explain how others have fixed the issue after doing some research myself
and again, the electrician swore that the attenuator is the culprit and that the rod or magnet etc had absolutely no relation to the problem in this case BECAUSE there is A CURRENT PASSING THE ATTENUATOR (IS THIS TRUE)?

So .... the attenuator have always been fine ... it just decides to stop working after the new alarm has been installed ..... WHAT THE ......

I need to buy a central locking attenuator (passenger side) .... i think .... do i ?!?!?!

All the gurus out there, plz help me analyse the problem with your expertise as i don't want to buy a new attenuator for $hundreds of dollars$ and find out later that the electrician is wrong and that he should jump off a cliff

If we conclude that a new attenuator is needed, how much would it cost or where can i buy a cheap one around Sydney ?
(is a second hand one recommended, or should i spend more on a brand new one?)

IF YOU ARE READING THIS POST, THANK YOU !!!
YOU HAVE READ MY LONGEST POST EVER ON THIS FORUM AND I GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY HELP :D

What model do you have and is it aftermarket or factory fitted central locking?

Ben

Sounds like the alarm guy is right. If there is power going to the actuator when you hit the remote to lock/unlock the door and the actuator doesn't move then there is a problem with the actuator. Another way to test it is to unplug it and apply a quick jab of 12V directly to the actuator. If it doesn't work try switching the polarity and try again. If that doesn't work your actuator is fried. If it works one way and not the other then you may be able to adjust the magnets and rod like in Okibi's post.

If you are short of funds or cant source a replacement actuator you could wire in an aftermarket one pretty easily. All the wiring is there, you'd just need to find a suitable mounting position for the new one. Jaycar used to sell slave actuators for around $10. I've used them in a few applications and they work quite well as long as you keep the water out of them.

Yep everything Garry has suggested is pretty much on the mark.

Checking the actuator with 12V is a really good way to confirm if it really is dead.

I have not personally fitted an aftermarket one so can't help there but by the sounds of it, your electrician will fit it for you anyway.

Garry wrote:If you are short of funds or cant source a replacement actuator you could wire in an aftermarket one pretty easily. All the wiring is there, you'd just need to find a suitable mounting position for the new one. Jaycar used to sell slave actuators for around $10. I've used them in a few applications and they work quite well as long as you keep the water out of them.

The alarm guy did promise me he'd install the new actuator free of labour as long as i sourced one that would fit.
(He did mention that an aftermarket one will not fit in my car after he took apart my passenger door to examine the actuator, i don't understand why personally)

Thanks Garry, the slave actuators that Jaycar sell, would you have a part number?
Also, my car is a 2003 NB8B, do you know if it'll work in my car?

In the meantime, i'm going to call Mania to see if they have a second hand one =)

CHEERS, much much appreciated

Just spoke to Simone at MX5 mania, a 2nd hand one is approx $100.
Good deal?

If someone could find the part number for the actuator that Jaycar sells for around $10 that would be great !!
I do know a lil more work has to be done in order to make it work properly, but since the alarm guy is doing all the work, i'm sure he's capable of doing a good job of fitting it/waterproofing it

meanmx wrote:What model do you have and is it aftermarket or factory fitted central locking?

Ben

It's a factory remote central locking system

http://www.jaycar.com.au

enter central locking as the search criteria

Receive the following reponse;

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults ... &priceMax=

J

It's just a solenoid, Jaycar have them in packs of 2 for bugger all.

is it a good idea to get the "2 DOOR LOCK KIT" from jaycar and replace the entire factory system or should i just replace the faulty "SLAVE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR" ???

Has any1 had any success with the jaycar replacement slave actuator in an NB ??
e.g.. does it fit into the doors ?!

Thanks guys

I'm not sure why he doesn't think the Jaycar one will fit. I've fitted several to NA's and they fit fine using the fitting hardware supplied with the actuator and there's more room behind the door card in an NB than there is in an NA. I dont think I'd bother replacing the whole system, just the faulty actuator.

Here's a how to for an NA. The NB should be similar. http://www.miata.net/garage/pwrlock.htm Print that off and take it to your installer. It should give him some ideas. He only needs to fit the actuator rod to the interior door handle rod like in the instructions. He can leave all the factor stuff there. Thats the way I did it on my dad's Magna when one of his actuators died and it worked fine. Just make sure he keeps it dry, they're not waterproofed very well. The first one I fitted to an NA got water logged so the subsequent ones were wrapped up in plastic and seemed to survive ok.

Mines playing up.

It will unlock the door but it won't lock it.

Does yours work like this or not at all?

thanks Garry, i've decided to go with the Jaycar one

Okibi, mine just doesn't lock/unlock AT ALL.

u have an NB .. ???

i'll tell u how it goes after the installation =)

Garry wrote:The NB should be similar. http://www.miata.net/garage/pwrlock.htm Print that off and take it to your installer.

Hi Garry, i sent that url to the alarm guy, he said that the Jaycar one would not work because the NA's run on the wire/rod and the NB's run off cable (size/mounting wasn't the issue)

So i just ordered a 2nd hand one from Mania for $100, which is a good deal i reckon

Just a heads up for any NB owners out there with a similar problem

Thanks Garry for your help anyways!!!

I don't see why you couldn't have used a Jaycar one, Don't nb's have a rod?

So i just ordered a 2nd hand one from Mania for $100, which is a good deal i reckon

For Mania?