Adaptronic owners thread
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- Okibi
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
Mine is turbo so slightly different but it's smoother than factory.
My settings probably needs some adjustments to sort out idle when there's lots of load on the battery (aircon, radio, headlights and wipers) but it typically only gets used for motorsport so I can live with it.
My settings probably needs some adjustments to sort out idle when there's lots of load on the battery (aircon, radio, headlights and wipers) but it typically only gets used for motorsport so I can live with it.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
idle isn't too bad on mine with load, although I haven't got air con (well, it's there, but doesn't work since it has a leak, and then later my extractors melted a huge hole in the low pressure line)
I tried the updated tune file tonight, and it's improved, but still needs work
I've pretty much decided to use that as a base and try fixing the transients myself now.
I tried the updated tune file tonight, and it's improved, but still needs work
I've pretty much decided to use that as a base and try fixing the transients myself now.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
Also good to hear it is possible with the select
I was getting told that it was basically not possible with this ecu...
I was getting told that it was basically not possible with this ecu...
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
I’ve also been told that it can’t be done. Please keep us updated with how you go.
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- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
I will do.
I'll be having a go myself over the next few weeks/months as I get time, and if I work it out i'll post the process.
I'll be having a go myself over the next few weeks/months as I get time, and if I work it out i'll post the process.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
ok, so first off the list.
I've had a small breakthrough today with the transients/tip in.
Currently i'm setup to use MAP Prediction, rather than the other manual method.
I tried a few things today, and none seemed to really help.
I changed the asynchronous pulse percentages etc, and really didnt feel any better/worse.
I also read somewhere that apparently ticking drive by wire throttle may help with lean tip in, regardless of the car actually having a DBW throttle or not.
again, no difference.
Then while driving, I noticed that the sudden jolt etc whenever the throttle was softly applied seemed to correlate exactly with the point where the ECU went from the predicted MAP value, to the actual value (worth noting, my predictive map table seems to be 120kpa across the board, which I dotn think is right... pretty sure it's supposed to taper up with TPS and RPM)
Anyway, as a test I put the Transition time way up to 500ms (from the 150ms setting it started with) (saw some post on Miata turbo about that being good for someone)
Instantly the throttle felt way worse, from idle a slight touch would drop RPM and stall the car.
I figured if a high value made it worse, try a small one, so I dropped it to 50ms, amazingly better.
Still not 100% there, but it's at least now smooth enough I can drive it without the engine bucking like it;s wanting to tear an engine mount off.
SO yeah, not there yet, but at least have made a few steps in the direction I want.
I've had a small breakthrough today with the transients/tip in.
Currently i'm setup to use MAP Prediction, rather than the other manual method.
I tried a few things today, and none seemed to really help.
I changed the asynchronous pulse percentages etc, and really didnt feel any better/worse.
I also read somewhere that apparently ticking drive by wire throttle may help with lean tip in, regardless of the car actually having a DBW throttle or not.
again, no difference.
Then while driving, I noticed that the sudden jolt etc whenever the throttle was softly applied seemed to correlate exactly with the point where the ECU went from the predicted MAP value, to the actual value (worth noting, my predictive map table seems to be 120kpa across the board, which I dotn think is right... pretty sure it's supposed to taper up with TPS and RPM)
Anyway, as a test I put the Transition time way up to 500ms (from the 150ms setting it started with) (saw some post on Miata turbo about that being good for someone)
Instantly the throttle felt way worse, from idle a slight touch would drop RPM and stall the car.
I figured if a high value made it worse, try a small one, so I dropped it to 50ms, amazingly better.
Still not 100% there, but it's at least now smooth enough I can drive it without the engine bucking like it;s wanting to tear an engine mount off.
SO yeah, not there yet, but at least have made a few steps in the direction I want.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- NitroDann
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
You can get it great, it's one of the better parts of the ecu IMO.
Also FYI: I believe that Haltech just bought Andy out, but Andy will still be in charge.
Dann
Also FYI: I believe that Haltech just bought Andy out, but Andy will still be in charge.
Dann
http://www.NitroDann.com
speed wrote:If I was to do it again, I wouldn't even consider the supercharger.
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
NitroDann wrote:You can get it great, it's one of the better parts of the ecu IMO.
Also FYI: I believe that Haltech just bought Andy out, but Andy will still be in charge.
Dann
Curious, what are the main known issues with the select?
I know a lot of people talk about it having issues, but other than its being a bit Scummy when it comes to idle with elec loads, I haven't found any actual details about what else is an issue.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
Hardly anything works the way it's supposed to work and a huge portion of the documentation is just completely wrong because it hasn't been updated since changes have been made.
It's probably not too bad if it's the ECU you are learning on because you will learn the quirks but it's very frustrating coming from other products which have complete documentation and either phone support or the ability to Google everything with features that consistently work how you expect them to.
An example is the inside the software there are many features that make no sense based on the name and are either not in the manual whatsoever or are referred to by a different name or even multiple different names in the manual.
Some of the features on the idle settings page even Andy doesn't remember what they are or how they work and can only remember whether you leave them turned on or off.
It's not very business effective from a tuners perspective.
Also, the select simply doesnt have as many outputs as even a stock NB8B ecu, so it struggles to run one properly. Things like fans cannot be controlled separately etc
Dann
It's probably not too bad if it's the ECU you are learning on because you will learn the quirks but it's very frustrating coming from other products which have complete documentation and either phone support or the ability to Google everything with features that consistently work how you expect them to.
An example is the inside the software there are many features that make no sense based on the name and are either not in the manual whatsoever or are referred to by a different name or even multiple different names in the manual.
Some of the features on the idle settings page even Andy doesn't remember what they are or how they work and can only remember whether you leave them turned on or off.
It's not very business effective from a tuners perspective.
Also, the select simply doesnt have as many outputs as even a stock NB8B ecu, so it struggles to run one properly. Things like fans cannot be controlled separately etc
Dann
http://www.NitroDann.com
speed wrote:If I was to do it again, I wouldn't even consider the supercharger.
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
That all makes sense.
And yeah, I can understand that since there are a few weird things on the software (must tick the 1/64 box for MX5s being one)
I'm guessing that's why the tuner seemed a bit reluctant to keep trying to fix it.
I hold no hard feelings, and totally understand why, hell, he's running a business, not a charity.
But yeah, if he'd just said so from the start it would have saved me from bothering him the past few visits.
Anyway, car runs OK, been driving it to work etc.
Starts ok enough even on cold mornings, not OEM smooth, but starts at least.
If it stalls while driving it will often need the throttle flat (flood clear) to start again, but does start at least.
Runs like arse until warmed up, but I suspect that's mainly to do with the transients being not completed yet.
Once warm, and all that it actually runs fairly well, idle is smooth most of the time, with the exception of high electrical load causing a little pulsing (headlights+wipers+thermo fans cause the idle to fluctuate between 1100 and 600, not perfect but I can live with it)
It has one lean point at low load, about 2000rpm and i'd guess around 15-25% throttle, it's a good 14.7ish either side of this, so I'm guessing it's just a couple of load cells that need some more fuel. For now i'm just avoiding that load cell.
Main thing I need to get around to doing is finding the time to plot out the load points for predictive MAP.
Currently the predictive table is at 120kpa across all cells, and i've got the transition time at 50ms, seems fine while driving, just a little lean from idle.
Since I dont really have anywhere large enough that I can load up the car and hold it in order to work out the predictive MAP table points, I'm thinking one weekend I'll just put it on stands and take the back wheels off.
Then I can hold throttle positions steady and use the brakes to add load to get to the RPM needed.
A ghetto dyno in a way (wheels removed to let the rear brakes breathe a bit, plus if a stand fails the car wont launch into the distance)
And yeah, I can understand that since there are a few weird things on the software (must tick the 1/64 box for MX5s being one)
I'm guessing that's why the tuner seemed a bit reluctant to keep trying to fix it.
I hold no hard feelings, and totally understand why, hell, he's running a business, not a charity.
But yeah, if he'd just said so from the start it would have saved me from bothering him the past few visits.
Anyway, car runs OK, been driving it to work etc.
Starts ok enough even on cold mornings, not OEM smooth, but starts at least.
If it stalls while driving it will often need the throttle flat (flood clear) to start again, but does start at least.
Runs like arse until warmed up, but I suspect that's mainly to do with the transients being not completed yet.
Once warm, and all that it actually runs fairly well, idle is smooth most of the time, with the exception of high electrical load causing a little pulsing (headlights+wipers+thermo fans cause the idle to fluctuate between 1100 and 600, not perfect but I can live with it)
It has one lean point at low load, about 2000rpm and i'd guess around 15-25% throttle, it's a good 14.7ish either side of this, so I'm guessing it's just a couple of load cells that need some more fuel. For now i'm just avoiding that load cell.
Main thing I need to get around to doing is finding the time to plot out the load points for predictive MAP.
Currently the predictive table is at 120kpa across all cells, and i've got the transition time at 50ms, seems fine while driving, just a little lean from idle.
Since I dont really have anywhere large enough that I can load up the car and hold it in order to work out the predictive MAP table points, I'm thinking one weekend I'll just put it on stands and take the back wheels off.
Then I can hold throttle positions steady and use the brakes to add load to get to the RPM needed.
A ghetto dyno in a way (wheels removed to let the rear brakes breathe a bit, plus if a stand fails the car wont launch into the distance)
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
Hey everyone,
just installed a modular ecu for an NA6. Loaded up the base map include and couldn’t get the car to start. Does anyone have a setup guide that I could reference?
I’m just trying to get it running so I know all is ok with the ecu before I tackle the turbo install.
Thanks in advance!
just installed a modular ecu for an NA6. Loaded up the base map include and couldn’t get the car to start. Does anyone have a setup guide that I could reference?
I’m just trying to get it running so I know all is ok with the ecu before I tackle the turbo install.
Thanks in advance!
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
Does it start if you have your foot flat on the throttle? (flood clear)
The base map mine came with from adaptronic (granted, an NB) was ridiculously rich on crank, mine would even hydrolock.
I suspect you'll need to vastly reduce cranking fuel (as for how to do that, I'm not sure since I didn't tune my starts)
The base map mine came with from adaptronic (granted, an NB) was ridiculously rich on crank, mine would even hydrolock.
I suspect you'll need to vastly reduce cranking fuel (as for how to do that, I'm not sure since I didn't tune my starts)
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
hks_kansei wrote:Does it start if you have your foot flat on the throttle? (flood clear)
The base map mine came with from adaptronic (granted, an NB) was ridiculously rich on crank, mine would even hydrolock.
I suspect you'll need to vastly reduce cranking fuel (as for how to do that, I'm not sure since I didn't tune my starts)
Will try that tomorrow, it would crank twice then not crank at all after that. Basically gave up on it and went on to install a VTPS with no luck either could not get a voltage reading. May have to repin the wiring loom. Couldn’t test for resistance, left my multimeter at work (sigh)
- hks_kansei
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
Yeah if it cranks and suddenly stops that's a sign of hydrolock.
Don't keep cranking, it can bend rods or ƒü¢k a valve.
Just leave it overnight and the fuel will evaporate and seep past the rings (and also, you'll want to change the oil after the starts are done, since the fuel will have diluted the oil)
Don't keep cranking, it can bend rods or ƒü¢k a valve.
Just leave it overnight and the fuel will evaporate and seep past the rings (and also, you'll want to change the oil after the starts are done, since the fuel will have diluted the oil)
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- Lokiel
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Re: Adaptronic owners thread
NitroDann wrote::
Also FYI: I believe that Haltech just bought Andy out, but Andy will still be in charge.
Dann
Confirmed, Haltech bought Adaptronic, see http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67315607-Adaptronic-bought-by-Haltech for this news ans some discussion on it.
Haltech got a great engineer (Andy) and patents out of the deal, unfortunately the Adaptronic forum and information seems to have become unavailable - Haltech need to get this information back up to avoid pissing off existing users.
This should allow Andy to get back to engineering instead of being distracted by the daily grind of running a business too and keeping the product up to date.
I really don't know how he kept it up for so long while still being responsive to users and aren't surprised that some areas lagged, such as documentation and software development - to do this well would have required far more staff than was economically viable
The next ECU generation should be impressive if it combines the best of the 2 products.
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