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I am contemplating de powering my power steering on my NA8. If I want to get this rack welded as part of the accepted process is there any good recommendations on who could do this welding in Melbourne?

What exactly are you welding? And why?

For best results on a depowered rack it is my understanding it is recommended to weld the flex joint in pinion shaft.

I have just had someone who can weld do it a few times, iirc it was $20. If you know someone handy with a tig, they could do it in a few minutes.
You only need a few small welds around it to keep it in place, so like 3 or 4 evenly space, less than 5mm long. Any decent welder will have a good idea how to do it.

I did mine with a MIG and it hasn't failed yet. I would probably TIG it next time though just so it's nicer. There isn't massive load on it, you basically have to be able to fail it with your own strength multiplied by the leverage of the wheel. If you depower your rack then it's worth welding it up to stop any extra slop.

It only takes a few minutes to remove the pump and loop the rubber hose. It's not worth doing it "properly ".

Unless you are wanting to remove weight by removing the pump, you can just as easily leave the pump in place. It doesn't increase steering load by letting the fluid circulate through it. To verify this simply jack the front of your car up and feel the steering resistance without the pump running. It feels no different to an unassisted rack (on my car, at least).

Until I read this thread I didn't know that my depowered rack with its unwelded pinion had any slop in it. I can't feel any increase in slop compared to when it was powered, despite looking at the videos showing the play at the joint (with the valving removed). Hmmm.

Thx for everyone's response. I may simply first try the looping option. Couple of reasons I am considering this and includes 'better' steering feel, some weight reduction and to give my engine bay a cleaner look (so I would remove the pump etc).

Not sure if the NA8 power rack is the same as the NB8A? However this may be useful for some. I depowered my NB8A and shortened it for my clubman build. I don't believe you need to weld the pinion in NB8A. I removed the piston from the rack tube, removed some of the bits/valving around the pinion. Cut off the threaded bungs that took the pipes around the rack tube and plug welded. Machined off the threaded bits around the pinion housing and plugged the holes just neaten things up. Cut 140mm from length and retapped to accept the tie rod.

Impressive GR124. My problem is that I am a mechanical clutz and expect I would stuff up what you just explained.