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Hi all

So my MCA X's are on now. Need to finish working on my NB8B wheels and buy my tyres, Nexen N'Fera SU1 205/45R16.

For the ride height I'm looking at the recommended gap between wheel and guard suggested by MCA, 32mm. Have to check the papers to confirm this.

After this I will get an alignment. Looking to visit 'Light Wheel Alignment Specialists Pty Ltd' here in Adelaide, unless someone has a better recommendation.

The alignment I've found on this forum for 'street with some spirited driving' is as follows:

FRONT:

Caster: Max (3+ degrees)
Camber: 2 Degrees
Toe: 0 Degrees

REAR:

Camber: 1.5 Degrees
Toe: 0 Degrees

Should those camber settings read -2 etc? This will be my first time getting an alignment to specific specs. Want to get it right.

Advice much appreciated.

Thanks

Everyone has their preferred setup, this seems an ok starting point to me to me, but you will need to work the tyres to get even wear at -2. I would set my camber target, and max the castor at this camber.

Zero toe is problematic, at the front it will want to wander a bit, I use zero but that is because track car. At the rear you might think about some toe in, as the rear toes out under bump, which can lead to sudden oversteer. I use 1mm toe in on each side at the rear, road or race.

I am sure others will chime in with variations, but the best thing is to start with a known setup, and then start playing with the numbers to see what difference they make to your car, and to see what feels best for you.

Thanks for the reply

Don't think I'll be working it super hard. How about the 949 street alignment?

Front camber: -1.4°

Caster: >4.5°
Front total toe: 1/16"

Rear camber : -1°
Rear total toe: 1/8"

My concern about this one is that it states: This alignment will require a slightly larger front sway bar.

I do have coilovers, as stated earlier, but a stock sway bar..

I would defer to someone who uses that setup, but adjusting tyre pressures and shock settings will alter the handling, if that is not sufficient then a new front bar will be needed.

Like I said above, you have to suck it and see ...

Basically, you are starting a looong slippery slope. You have made one mod, and now you are trying to make that 'work'. Forget the bar until you have tried everything that can be tuned in your existing setup - alignment, tyre pressures, shocks - give it six months of experimentation.

In any event, don't MCA say their valving is such that they recommend you not change the bar? I would also ask MCA what sort of alignment settings they used in developing their damping curves - factory, other street, street/track, or track, and whether they have any suggestions. I'd be surprised if they couldn't give you a steer (sorry, couldn't help it ).

Hah couldn't resist eh? Yep thanks for reminding me I'll get in touch with them

Hey there Captain
I recently had MCA reds fitted to my NA6. I'm in Brisbane so given the $$$ I was spending (even though I've fitted coilovers before), I got MCA to fit them, & get the alignment done to the specs they recommend. I could not be happier. I guess what I'm saying is, give Josh at MCA a call & have a chat. I think he will be more than happy to suggest his recommended alignment specs to suit the type of intended use.

Hope that helps