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I just had a wheel alignment done on my na8 and was able to sit in on it.

My goal was to have:

-2.0 deg camber on front
-1.5 deg camber on the rear
0 toe all round and plenty of castor on the front.

The rears were adjusted first and made the -1.5 deg camber.
The front left could easily make the -2.0 deg camber and could have gone further.
BUT the front right could only reach -1.2 deg camber. :, (

Why would that be? How can I fix it?

I'll post the alignment that I ended up with soon.

Here is what I ended up with. As I said the front right wouldnt go any further than -1.2 deg camber (came back in a little when the toe was set).
We decided not to go crazy on the front left camber as a result.



As you can see its set to:

Front Left:
-1.38 deg camber
5 deg caster
0 toe

Front Right
-1.13 deg camber
5 deg caster
0 toe

Rears
-1.5 deg camber
0.7mm toe in


Before the alignment there was between -0.5 and -1.0 deg camber all round and there was a huge amount of toe out on the rears - which was the cause of a lot of over-steer.

After the alignment I took it through some twisties and it felt much better than before. But I really want to make the both of the fronts -2.0 deg camber.

Which brings me back to my original question. Why could we only reach -1.20 deg camber on the front right whereas the front left could take well above -2.0? And what should be done from here?

Its been banged into a gutter.

Get eccentric bushes and go again.

NitroDann wrote:Its been banged into a gutter.

Get eccentric bushes and go again.

I figured thats what would have happened. Im glad you think its just the eccentric bushes. Thanks for the reply

Bushes, not bolts.

Well, maybe the long bolt.

Google what I'm.talking about.

NitroDann wrote:Well, maybe the long bolt.

Google what I'm.talking about.

ok will do. thanks

Should I be replacing both sides to keep the handling the same?

RileyR wrote:

As you can see its set to:

Front Left:
-1.38 deg camber

Front Right
-1.13 deg camber

Rears
-1.5 deg camber

I second using an offset bush on the FR to fix what is most likely a bent arm or similar.

Also the measurements are in deg and minutes, so 1deg50' & 1deg'54 on the rear = 1.83 & 1.90 deg
and 1.6deg and 1.21 deg on the front.

Check that the long bolts are straight, and your bushes will come as a set, ie both sides.

rascal wrote:I second using an offset bush on the FR to fix what is most likely a bent arm or similar.

Also the measurements are in deg and minutes, so 1deg50' & 1deg'54 on the rear = 1.83 & 1.90 deg
and 1.6deg and 1.21 deg on the front.

Ok great thanks. So not oem bushes? special ones with more offset?

Ah ok - I have written it wrong. This was explained to me by the aligner (nearly broke my brain)

NitroDann wrote:Check that the long bolts are straight, and your bushes will come as a set, ie both sides.

Ok great. If the long bolts dont add too much cost I might just replace them at the same time anyway to be safe.

Potential issues:

1. Bent subframe
2. Bent Lower Control Arms (good possibility)
3. Bent upper control arms (rare unless big hit on the front)
4. Tie rod ends
5. Lower ball joints (the upper ones are part of the arms, they can be replaced but not with OEM parts)
6. Bushes
7. Alignment bolts

For example I had an issue getting caster beyond 2° however after replacing the lower control arms, bushes, tie rod ends and ball joints caster went out to 7°.

You could get eccentric bushes but this would be a band aid, you need to resolve the 'why' first. You could go to a panel beater and get them to measure the frame (they normally have a jig for this).

Magpie wrote:Potential issues:

1. Bent subframe
2. Bent Lower Control Arms (good possibility)
3. Bent upper control arms (rare unless big hit on the front)
4. Tie rod ends
5. Lower ball joints (the upper ones are part of the arms, they can be replaced but not with OEM parts)
6. Bushes
7. Alignment bolts

For example I had an issue getting caster beyond 2° however after replacing the lower control arms, bushes, tie rod ends and ball joints caster went out to 7°.

You could get eccentric bushes but this would be a band aid, you need to resolve the 'why' first. You could go to a panel beater and get them to measure the frame (they normally have a jig for this).

Bugger, may not be a simple job then. The thrust angle on the wheel alignment was all good - does that mean that the subframe is ok?

Maybe I could source whole lower control arms from an nb or an na that definitely has no damage? - Though I didnt think mine did either :S

I went all new parts. The second hand parts could make it better or worse.