QFM A1RM owners

kazama · Postby **kazama** » Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:48 pm

Hey guys,
Recently got a set of A1RMs. Ran through the bedding in procedure outlined on their site. One thing I can't get out of my head is how minimal their bedding procedure is compared other big names. The brakes hardly even get hot.

Anyone have experience and results with it?

Procedure as follows:
http://qfm.com.au/userfiles/files/BEDDI ... CEDURE.pdf

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 7:46 am

Really? I've never read the QFM instructions before. But they seem quite excessive to me. Never have I done that many stops in a bedding in process. I'll admit I never seen the instructions for the big names either. But if they have larger bedding in processes than QFMs, then I'd think they are excessive+excessive.

Vat · Postby **Vat** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:23 am

All I did was couple of firm stops at 40, 50, 60 and then 100. Car got dríven normally for a little while, then Lakeside (which was wet), so mine went a while without full on track abuse.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:55 am

Was there a layer transfer to the discs? Also do you have brake ducts? When I bed my brakes in I block the ducts off.

However when I did bed in a set of A1RM's (as per the instructions) they did not get that hot. Took me a while to find this post I did on bedding them in (last lot of photos) http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=775735#p775735.

I find the bedding in for the Winmax does make them get a lot hotter, however it is all about the transfer of pad material to the discs.

The Winmax is:
1. 7-9 times from 80k to 20k using 60-80% pedal pressure;
2. 7-9 times from 120k to 80k using 60-80% pedal pressure;
3. 7-9 times from 120k to 20k using 60-80% pedal pressure.

The aim is to get the discs to around 400 deg C and make sure the pad material is deposited homogeneously onto the discs. If there was not the correct layer transfer repeat the process. Note I don't do the 120k speed on public roads rather go up to 110, at this speed there is no problem getting the layer transfer or up to temp.

Trackphotos · Postby **Trackphotos** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:15 am

I have a1rms and followed that procedure. Worked fine. They stop well and don't make any noise. Overdoing it during bedding in can cause some seriously nasty brake squeal, so I would just do what qfm recommend and leave it at that.

slug_dub · Postby **slug_dub** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:22 am

I'm new to AR1Ms this time round, and bedded in pretty close to QFMs suggestion. I have a bit of squeal with them but nothing dramatic. Given what Magpie has suggested above I think I would go a bit more next pad change to see if there is any difference compared to this time, I have no other real reference yet. However the pads stop very well as is now, way better than I am used to.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 10:56 am

I will stress that you need to look at the material transfer layer onto the disc, this is the best sign that they have been bedded in properly.

This thread has some photos on the transfer layer http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=844355#p844355. Not the rear left photo shows the lack of transfer layer due to too much heat.

Front left. Similar to Front right. The temp was around 430 deg C and good pad material transfer.

DSCN2637 by Eipeip, on Flickr

Rear Left - In excess of 630c. This is outside the recommended temperature for Winmax W3's. The disc is also polished and no real pad material deposited onto the disc.

DSCN2638 by Eipeip, on Flickr

Toss up a while ago about buying a Flex-Hone tool http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6 to do the rotors before a pad install, now I just use some wet/dry sand paper to buff them up. However if changing to a different (more aggressive) pad I will get the rotors machined.

kazama · Postby **kazama** » Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:28 pm

Reading the above it sounds promising. I came from EBC greenstuff pads which have a gigantic bed in process, but one that inspires confidence.

EBC bed in process:
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-be ... driving-2/

I followed the A1RM bed in to the t. The brake peddle is very firm compared to the spongy greenstuff feel. They have very strong bite and so far feel excellent. But that's just on a short drive in the burbs, I'll be interested to see how they go on the next spirited run.

The below photos are FR-FL-RR-RL. It seems the front pads have mated to the disks much better than the rear. All the sliders were regreased during the install and the previous pad/disk combo wore evenly.

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Sat Aug 29, 2015 11:49 am

the rears haven't worked at all. the machining marks can still be seen.

DeweysMom · Postby **DeweysMom** » Wed Sep 28, 2016 9:51 pm

Hi, I am getting problem when I apply breaks, some sort of sound easily heard. What do you think is it due to bedding? I just check one video on youtube and get that we must use comforter, what do you say?

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed Sep 28, 2016 10:14 pm

Magpie wrote:Toss up a while ago about buying a Flex-Hone tool http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6 to do the rotors before a pad install, now I just use some wet/dry sand paper to buff them up. However if changing to a different (more aggressive) pad I will get the rotors machined.

I drop the disks on a rough sort of wooden hub in the vice and scuff them up with 180 grit on a belt sander. The disc spins a bit as the belt sander works and you end end with a pretty smooth clean scuffed up disc - never had any shakes or shimmies afterwards and new pads always seem to bed well. Only takes a couple of minutes per disc. For me that's a lot quicker and easier than taking them to a brake place.

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:33 pm

manga_blue wrote:
Magpie wrote:Toss up a while ago about buying a Flex-Hone tool http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6 to do the rotors before a pad install, now I just use some wet/dry sand paper to buff them up. However if changing to a different (more aggressive) pad I will get the rotors machined.
I drop the disks on a rough sort of wooden hub in the vice and scuff them up with 180 grit on a belt sander. The disc spins a bit as the belt sander works and you end end with a pretty smooth clean scuffed up disc - never had any shakes or shimmies afterwards and new pads always seem to bed well. Only takes a couple of minutes per disc. For me that's a lot quicker and easier than taking them to a brake place.

Ive got a Flex-Hone and they work a treat. Ive used it about 10 times after changing pads from QFM back to standard on the white car.
I think definitely get one. its takes about 1 minute on the end of a cordless and the disc is clean and has that concave pattern on the faces and the new pads bed straight in.

Richard.