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Hello again everyone. Before i start i've done the search and read through everything, and although helpful i haven't got it right yet.

My handbrake in my na8 is woeful to say the least. To start off there is nothing wrong with my brakes, its just the handbrake thats the issue. i've jacked it up and adjusted the calipers with the little hex adjuster after taking the slack out in the cabin with the little screw.

In neutral with the wheels up you can here the callipers dragging a little bit on the rotors but i don't no how much they should drag. when i drive around without using brakes i cant feel the brakes get hot so i guess there not draging an excessive amount. The callipers are balanced left to right (even pressure on each side) it just when i rip the handle there isin't any bite? It wont hold the car on a reasonable hill. Its almost like when i pull the brake up there isn't enough adjustment in the actual brake lever to really crank it? Theres about 8 clicks until its hard up and it still doesn't hold very well, only when i reallllllllly pull it to about 9-10 clicks and i struggle to release it does it hold reasonably. I can adjust the slack out of the cable but it does the same thing only a few clicks shorter. Should i really struggle to pull the handbrake up to get it to hold?

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks in advance,

Jono.

If the pads and rotors are good, then maybe you need to recondition/grease the rear callipers

I don't have an NA but what it sounds like is that there is insufficient force on the pads to hold the car. This can happen on some vehicles because you run out of adjustment. Try re adjusting the lever so you reduce the number of clicks before before the hand brake starts starts to bite. You can only adjust the pad on the calliper till it starts to drag and then back it off. In theory if the handbrake is stretched you could run out of adjustment. If you get it checked at a brake place it should be an easy fix.

gslender wrote:If the pads and rotors are good, then maybe you need to recondition/grease the rear callipers

Rear pads were replaced and the sliders were greased. But if that were the problem wouldn't the rears not release and bind?

Ive already seen that on other threads and no avail, i can get the brake within the 5-7 click specs but it dosn't even come close to holding my on the hill.

Did you check for rusted/sticking cables? Also this diagnostic from Mazda.

becasue they haven't been set up properly, i'm going with "hardening of pad surfaces or poor contact. grind or replace."

Pads were replaced recently and even on the old pads I still had the same problem. It didn't get any better or worse with changing of the pads.


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Handbrake cable has stretched?

I can get the pressure within the 5 clicks it just feels like the pads aren't biteing hard so I can pull it hard up in a hill but then j let go of the brake and I just roll like there's nothing holding me I can drive with the handbrake full up.


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You need to go back to the basic set-up and start from scratch by the book. It seems you have one, or all, of:
a. bad adjustment;
b. defective cable; and/or
c. defective rear caliper(s)/pads/disc(s)

d. The cable is still under tension when the handbrake is let right down (so that the self-adjusters in the calipers can't work)
e. The self adjusters are damaged.

Jono,
Back off the h/brake cable lots, make sure that the cables are free. Adjust the calipers and back off 1/4 of a turn,make sure no binding but slight scraping is good,you should not be able to turn the hub with your hand, use a 12'' screwdriver, refit cover screw and pump pedal and recheck adjustment, remember some scraping is good. Once you have the calipers as well adjusted as you can then adjust cable, take up slack in the cable making sure that you still only have some slight scraping. Pull on hand brake 4 or 5 times and readjust cable as required.

This is how I have always done all jap cars and it works really well. I even do motorkanas with it adjusted like this but I still forget where I'm going

Terry

tbro wrote:Jono,
Back off the h/brake cable lots, make sure that the cables are free. Adjust the calipers and back off 1/4 of a turn,make sure no binding but slight scraping is good,you should not be able to turn the hub with your hand, use a 12'' screwdriver, refit cover screw and pump pedal and recheck adjustment, remember some scraping is good. Once you have the calipers as well adjusted as you can then adjust cable, take up slack in the cable making sure that you still only have some slight scraping. Pull on hand brake 4 or 5 times and readjust cable as required.

This is how I have always done all jap cars and it works really well. I even do motorkanas with it adjusted like this but I still forget where I'm going

Terry

When you say back off handbrake cable lots, do you mean inside the cabin? Will i no the cables free if the handbrake is initially loose?

d. The cable is still under tension when the handbrake is let right down (so that the self-adjusters in the calipers can't work)

That could be the case, maybe i've got them dragging too much on the callipers? When i've got the car up in the air i can grab the studs with my hand and spin the hub with some SHHHHH noise and if i try spin them up they will keep rolling for a little under one second so there defiantly not binding but could it be there still too much.

If you want and its easy for you, you can disconnect it at the calipers. What you need to remember is that once your handbrake is set up properly,
you shouldn't have to touch it again until you replace the pads.
So a bit of time now is all you will have to do.

You would be surprised at the amount of mechanics out there that have no clue on how to set up and adjust brakes properly.

Regardless of make of vehicle, you cannot adjust the brakes properly if the handbrake is not backed off before you adjust the wheels.

Terry