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So this is a road car so i'm not wanting to pull out the whole system as such I just don't want the ABS to kick in, I find it very upsetting when driving hard and i'm not used to it as both cars i've owned so far a pre 1992.

Is disabling ABS as easy as removing the fuse? and then removing the light from the cluster so people don't know? and by doing this it won't stuff up any other system which I should be worried about?

I read around a bit but it's mainly people talking about removing the whole system for weight reduction.

Its not really a sound idea. Its one of the most significant safety features for modern cars and for normal driving i.e. not emergency braking it will not operate anyway. What's to get used to when abs kicks in.

This hurts but I have to agree with Mr Morlock.

How good are your threshold braking skills in an emergency?

I think you're nuts, but I will happily help you do this safely in exchange for your ABS parts!

DO NOT just remove the fuse. You will need a prop valve from an earlier model car - probably a NB8A valve would be best. Shoot me a PM if you are seriously considering this - I also have the parts you will need.

I'll queue up behind Zossy for the parts if you decide to go ahead.

So will I just because I want the ABS rings/hubs/sensors.

Well I have done a defensive driving course and the instructor said i nailed it pretty well, I have also practiced a heap since i did that course, and I have before been in a situation where Threshold braking was needed and my brain didn't just go slam on the brakes straight away

I did a mountain run the other day and i find it kicks in even when you aren't fully on the point of braking traction, like I could start to feel the pedal giving some small bumps (not as vigorous as when you completely slam on the brakes) but i knew there was a lot more in the tyres before they were going to break traction.


Magpie, really? ABS on a track car?!? Why??

Doesn't anyone else find ABS disturbing or is this literally just me?


And as I said guys I want it to be off when I want it off so I won't be giving away parts

It's because I have a track car that I want ABS. Tyres are our single biggest expense in the annual running budget. Without ABS there is always the chance of destroying a new $300 tyre in a couple of seconds by flat spotting under brakes. This is somethimg that's probably cost me at least $2000 over the life of this car. I wouldn't use ABS, I just would like it there as a backstop. It's almost enough to make me think about going to the dark side and being seen driving an NB. :shudder:

Some circuits are almost designed to promote flatspotting - SMS South cicuit is evil.

What manga_blue said plus I want the wheel speed sensors for other reasons not connected with ABS

I have found on the few time I have had to do threshold braking in a panic I'm not as good as I was when doing it under a controled environment. I have the brake pressure logs to prove it

I have to agree also. If your ABS is kicking in, you will be locking a wheel without it. I drove Brendan's NB8B last weekend, and never had the ABS kick in. And that was doing 1:50-1:51 lap times. So not slow. Buy grippy tyres, should fix your problem. Plus, driving on a country road, how do you know what the surface friction is at each corner.
ABS FTW.

angusis2fast4u wrote:I did a mountain run the other day and i find it kicks in even when you aren't fully on the point of braking traction, like I could start to feel the pedal giving some small bumps (not as vigorous as when you completely slam on the brakes) but i knew there was a lot more in the tyres before they were going to break traction.

Are you sure this brake judder is ABS kicking in and not the rotors?

My guess is it is one wheel starting to lock (probably inside rear) on dirty surface or as you have said dan brake shudder.

Angus. The brake system on a abs car is different to all other in that the abs controls the percentage of rear brake bias.

Every earlier car reduced braking to the rear to stop you swapping ends.

This should make the Nbb pull up faster as it gives the most rear bias you have to grip to use. Pulling the fuse will cause you to have equal brake pressure front and rear causing rear lock ups.

The soft suspension you said you have is probably making the abs kick in earlier if the car is driving a lot under brakes and taking weight off the rear.

I know what your saying about intrusive abs systems, I've experienced a few of them BUT they were all on boats with shite suspension.

I'd say get your suspension fixed up, check your rotors for trueness at the next service and see what happens from there.

If you really want it off from then it's going to mean physically removing the abs unit and master cylinder


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+1 for sailaholic, that's the exact answer (with reasons) I wanted to hear, I will look into suspension before I do anything then.

Also it is definitely not brake shudder

And I noticed it once mainly when I the left wheel lane was a perfect surface and the right wheel lane had a little bit of an uneven surface, obviously I broke a bit earlier than I would have usually since I have seen this ahead but as soon as that wheel hit the bump it wanted to make its own correction which I did not plan for and it threw me off, so I wasn't happy

Just my 2 cents' worth, but if you're activating ABS on the road, you need ABS on the road as you would otherwise be locking up wheels, which lengthens your stopping distance and your ability to steer. You'd also need to consult your insurers.

davekmoore wrote:Just my 2 cents' worth, but if you're activating ABS on the road, you need ABS on the road as you would otherwise be locking up wheels, which lengthens your stopping distance and your ability to steer. You'd also need to consult your insurers.

By threshold braking you actually stop quicker than with ABS, ABS is better for people who have a tendency to slam on the brakes...

You will need to re-read the section where I said I could feel the pedal pulsing but wheels not locking