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Hey all my o/s/rear caliper sticks when taking off till it gets warm. Was about to buy a seal kit from 1 of my suppliers but they don't recommend doing it with out a re sleeve and refuse to fit seal kits to their customers due to leaking with out re sleeve how common is this? And has any one fitted seals with out it occurring?

I'm inclined to agree with them. I've changed seals without resleeving often as part of preventive maintenance - it's part of having track cars. The calipers and pistons need to be in perfect condition though: absolutely no pitting, no rust, no wear marks. It's different when things go wrong with calipers, such as your case. Internal damage is much more likely and I'd say resleeving is wise.

manga_blue

Thanks all nice to get a 3rd opinion but that all being said I have been quoted 240 the have them bored and built each so that with slotted rotors and pads even with my trade discount still cheaper to buy will wood front and rear set from flying mita has anyone used these? I want to turbo the car in the future and like doing things right the first time not doing it in the past has cost me alot really appreciate the feed back on all of this

I've just ordered front/rear reseal kits from http://www.autolinkmx5.com/mazda-mx-5-parts-8-c.asp

They only cost a few bucks and takes about 1-2 hours per caliper to do.. doesn't hurt pulling them apart and inspecting and if you need a new old caliper from a NA6/8 then it would only cost a few bucks and you might get lucky. Way cheaper than replacing the entire disc and caliper etc... but if you're looking for a reason, then why not!

Why Willwood, did you know that their discs are not as thick as OEM but have the same min thickness? Look at getting a set of brakes from a NB8B, however again you will more than likley need to have the serviced and rebuilt to make sure that they are working 100%.

Was just one of the kits from a well known brand but interesting fact on min thickness wonder if they get away with it like tempering the rotors like the DBA t3s are and yes I would still need rebuild plus slotted rotors and pads but thanks all still trying to work it out big money for stock brakes never had this problem with all the commodore iv had mind you they never handled this well either

I'm running OEM NB8B calipers and discs and not having any issues whatsoever on the track. Car has about 170 RWHP and is Non forced induction. I do have a spare set of calipers and 2 sets of discs as spares. I set of discs are bedded in for my street pads, the other set has just been machined and ready to be some pads in.

In my spares I have a set of slotted rotors, to be honest I don't think there is any real difference between the OEM and the slotted.

So 2 questions is it true to get that much power na big dollars? Even if build yourself? And do you know anyone selling nb8b brakes? I'm new to 4 cylinders but not to car world so I know it's who you know

Yes it's still very big dollars. Cheaper to swap in a honda k series engine.


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sailaholic has said it all in his post about na power.

NB8B brakes do come up every now and then on the forum so keep an eye out. The reason I have 2 sets is because they do not come up for sale that often and do not last long when they do, however the discs are common. You will also need to get the NB8B uprights and think about using NB upper control arms on the front.

Thanks for that interesting to know might have to strip the S's for it 5.7 and 6 speed and Detroit true track haha