mx5cartalk.com

Last night I fitted Koni yellows with GC coilovers and fatcat bumpstops.

Long-bolt method = win.

The order in which I placed the parts on the shaft is as follows:

Koni white nylon split washer
FCM black spacer
Bumpstop (flat face up)
FCM steel washer
Tophat (Drilled to 12mm).

Puzzle time.

Does all this shiz just flop around on the shaft?
What's the deal with the FCM spacers? All I can see them doing is reducing what little travel is available before bottoming out.
To keep the springs captive ride height is something like 16" centre to guard.
Swaybars should keep them in check whilst cornering but what stops the springs from mis seating and tearing my shiny new suspension to pieces if the wheels come off the ground?

Do I have to carefully guide them in each time I jack up the car? What happens if its at a workshop?

Have I cocked something up?
Am I over thinking this?

It just seems a bit dodgy.

Is there some kind of second captive spring I can get?

Seanan.

throw all that stupid shite in the bin and buy a proper set of coilovers. problem solved.

yes the red shaft with the threading on it will move around. because they are an old design, when lowered, the shock throw will be reduced and ride quality reduced.

and yes the springs will become uncaptive when the shock go back to full length, due to the old design.

you might fix the problem with shorter shocks, but thats more money pissed up against the wall that you should've used to buy $1100 real coilovers.

Is there any solution that doesn't involve throwing all my stupid sh*t in the bin?

My Koni yellows came with captive springs to fix this problem. You are welcome to have a look at the setup before I sell them if you like.

That would be great, are they out of the car?

Could you post a pic or is this a good excuse for me to have a nice drive in the hills?

They are out of the car, and the helper springs are separate for now. I will take a few pictures and post them up.

Check ignition and may God's love be with you.

davekmoore wrote:Check ignition and may God's love be with you.

Checked the ignition, didn't seem to make any difference, ditto God's love.

Can anyone enlighten me as to the purpose of the Black FCM spacer,

Take your protein pills and put your helmet on

Hey,

> Does all this shiz just flop around on the shaft?

The white nylon spit washer and the black spacer are unique to the Koni shock.

I believe the spacer is because the Koni does not have an internal limit stop.
Don't quote me on that, though.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=191614

To be completely legal you should be using a helper spring and a spring coupler so that you springs are captive under all conditions.

For a little more money, though a tender spring might be more useful or desireable.

Research dual rate spring setups.

You would not be the first person not to follow these guidelines, however.

The bump stops will settle into a position at the top of the shaft, so don't worry too much about those.

I think you've got something wrong if there is a metal washer loose, however.

Just out of interest, what spring rates and bump stops did you select?


Lastly, the koni body will have three grooves which allow you to adjust the ride height.

You may have to change yours to suit your requirements.
Not having a Koni install, I can't advise.

maybe try http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Ko ... sembly.pdf
Nick.

Thanks,

The steel washer is fixed to the top of the shaft.

Front rates are 400 and stops are 36mm,
Rears are 275 and 46mm.

I've been quoted >$400 for helper springs

I'll go and read the link regarding the spacers now.

Thanks for the reply.

Edit: thanks for the link, the spacers stay. (Can't believe my search missed that thread).

> Front rates are 400 and stops are 36mm,
> Rears are 275 and 46mm.

If these are the default GC 400lb 6in lg fr, 275lb 7in rears you should be able to use some combination of the Koni grooves and the GC collars and have the springs captive.

You will probably be limited to 12.5in fr, 13.0in rear max (hub to fender) ride height though.

That's not too high, and you can always go lower.

As you've discovered, tender springs are in the same price range.

For the price though, you can always get longer main springs and sell your current springs.

Nick.