Wilwood/Goodwin Big Brake Kit 11", 280mm
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:01 pm
As some of you may know already (cause I'm loud at track days LOL), I am going to the States at the end of October through November for 3 weeks.
I will be on the West Coast, and that is where all the MX5 stuff is over there.
I was looking at getting coilovers, but they are not Passenger Plane friendly so they are off the radar.
Since I have had so many issues, failures and wear problems on NB8B SE brakes, I think it is the right time to buy some newer gear.
To make my standard brakes perfect again I will need:
Front brake lines(Braided) (current ones have outer plastic damaged) ~$100
New front DBA 4000 rotors $330
New race pads $150
New Piston seals/dust seals (Both my dust seals are burnt and missing chunks, don't wanna even contemplate getting the piston seals out and changed) $$$??? 30pounds each from UK, Mazda Australia don't wanna play ball on selling these to me (they want to sell the whole calliper!!!), but I will try again with the part number I can see on the UK website http://www.autolinkmx5.com/brake-calipe ... 4434-p.asp.
Slide pins have wear on them, and should be changed. (~$10-15 a pin from memory)
Not really worth the cost to do it at $500 to $800 depending on what I change.
At the end of my trip, with mo more internal flights, I will be 5 miles from Goodwin Racing, so that’s where I will most likely get stuff from.
I am looking at his 11" Big Brake Kits utilising Wilwood 4 Piston callipers and the plain Wilwood kits as well, front only.
So far I like the V1 Kit for these reasons:
Stronger Hats, hub centric hats, up rated brackets and reasonable $700 price tag.
Replacement parts are also cheaper than standard NB8B brake parts.
But is it worth the extra $100 over the standard Wilwood deal though? They are $600, but just look less stout in pictures.
Consider I am using these on the track, barely will be used on the street.
I am not even looking at his V3 and V4 kits, simply because of price, $1100 and $1150 respectively.
Could always upgrade the hats and rotors at a later date to the V4 spec, if need be, as that is the only difference. $480 to do this at a later date, so a whopping $30 difference overall.
But then rotors are $180 a piece vs $80 for the standard Wilwood ones, or $95 for 949's version. It seems 949 does a rotor for the V4 at $99 though.
V1 Kit Link
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0422.html
Standard Wilwood Kit Link
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0692.html
The main downside I can see to the standard NB8B setup, is the rotors are thinner, 20.5mm vs 22mm.
The 2 piece setup should combat this though with better cooling, not to mention the rotors have a 280mm diameter vs 270mm?
Has anyone here had a Wilwood 4 pot setup for a while?
Has anybody tried the 949racing curved vane rotor? Any better than the standard Wilwood rotor?
I am interested in Brake Pad wear rates and rotor life, as that is what is bugging me the most with the standard gear.
Also any other issues you have encountered with the setup.
And the only real question.
Red or Grey?
Legality reasons would tell me to get Grey as it is less noticeable, but the Kid inside me tells me to get Red.
If anyone has Red, how have they held to heat, especially from track use?
Other comments etc about this gear or a feasible other options. ie not $1000 + setups.
I will be on the West Coast, and that is where all the MX5 stuff is over there.
I was looking at getting coilovers, but they are not Passenger Plane friendly so they are off the radar.
Since I have had so many issues, failures and wear problems on NB8B SE brakes, I think it is the right time to buy some newer gear.
To make my standard brakes perfect again I will need:
Front brake lines(Braided) (current ones have outer plastic damaged) ~$100
New front DBA 4000 rotors $330
New race pads $150
New Piston seals/dust seals (Both my dust seals are burnt and missing chunks, don't wanna even contemplate getting the piston seals out and changed) $$$??? 30pounds each from UK, Mazda Australia don't wanna play ball on selling these to me (they want to sell the whole calliper!!!), but I will try again with the part number I can see on the UK website http://www.autolinkmx5.com/brake-calipe ... 4434-p.asp.
Slide pins have wear on them, and should be changed. (~$10-15 a pin from memory)
Not really worth the cost to do it at $500 to $800 depending on what I change.
At the end of my trip, with mo more internal flights, I will be 5 miles from Goodwin Racing, so that’s where I will most likely get stuff from.
I am looking at his 11" Big Brake Kits utilising Wilwood 4 Piston callipers and the plain Wilwood kits as well, front only.
So far I like the V1 Kit for these reasons:
Stronger Hats, hub centric hats, up rated brackets and reasonable $700 price tag.
Replacement parts are also cheaper than standard NB8B brake parts.
But is it worth the extra $100 over the standard Wilwood deal though? They are $600, but just look less stout in pictures.
Consider I am using these on the track, barely will be used on the street.
I am not even looking at his V3 and V4 kits, simply because of price, $1100 and $1150 respectively.
Could always upgrade the hats and rotors at a later date to the V4 spec, if need be, as that is the only difference. $480 to do this at a later date, so a whopping $30 difference overall.
But then rotors are $180 a piece vs $80 for the standard Wilwood ones, or $95 for 949's version. It seems 949 does a rotor for the V4 at $99 though.
V1 Kit Link
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0422.html
Standard Wilwood Kit Link
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0692.html
The main downside I can see to the standard NB8B setup, is the rotors are thinner, 20.5mm vs 22mm.
The 2 piece setup should combat this though with better cooling, not to mention the rotors have a 280mm diameter vs 270mm?
Has anyone here had a Wilwood 4 pot setup for a while?
Has anybody tried the 949racing curved vane rotor? Any better than the standard Wilwood rotor?
I am interested in Brake Pad wear rates and rotor life, as that is what is bugging me the most with the standard gear.
Also any other issues you have encountered with the setup.
And the only real question.
Red or Grey?
Legality reasons would tell me to get Grey as it is less noticeable, but the Kid inside me tells me to get Red.
If anyone has Red, how have they held to heat, especially from track use?
Other comments etc about this gear or a feasible other options. ie not $1000 + setups.