mx5cartalk.com

So, largely thanks to Craig for showing me how to go quicker at Winton on the Racecraft day on Saturday, I'm now finding my Yokohama road tyres going off and the slotted RDAs making groaning noises while going very slowly back to the pits after 10 laps.

With the tyres at normal temps the set up is for no understeer and oversteer only if I'm really stoopid or super brave. There's defo a bit of tyre induced understeer from around lap 5 and plenty of tyre induced oversteer from lap 4. From then, unless I slow down, it goes differently around each corner with random combinations of understeer, oversteer and four wheel drifts. All good fun but way slower. The brakes seem fine when on the track for 10 laps but I wonder if I'm doing them any harm - and I guess the hot brakes contribute to the hot tyres?

So no doubt I'm now on the next slippery slope of throwing money into the pit and could use some advice of what to do next ......

Swap the 17 x 7s for 15 x 8s or 9s to get wider tyres with more grip but less heat?

Or put bigger front brakes on so they get less hot but then have to have 16s or 17s?

Or different tyres, bearing in mind the car is still my DD?

More air to the brakes by losing the fogs - or by other means?

Other ideas?

Two sets of tyres makes a massive difference, because what is good for your DD sucks on the track. You will always be limited by trying to compensate for both.

Your current brakes should be fine, if anything get some s/s braided lines and good pads/fluid.

Confidence in braking helps improve your lap times.

Hjt wrote:15'' tyres makes a massive difference, because what sucks for your DD sucks on the track. You will always be wanting to get rid of your 17s, cuz.

Your current brakes should be fine, if anything get some s/s braided lines and good pads/fluid.

Confidence in braking helps improve your lap times.

FTFY

Dann

I have 15x7 and 15x9s. I do agree with the above. But if your budget doesn't allow, just change the track wheels and keep the DD wheels.

FTFY???? What does that stand for ?

I agree with Hayden. You’ve reached the point that we all get to in our motor sporting life where road tyres just don’t cut it, unless you’re running in the stock class.

Change up to an R-spec tyre and a rim width that is compliant with your class rules. 15" tyres are cheaper than 16".

Going to R-specs will allow for better braking (as well as cornering) but this will then fry your pads unless you get dedicated track pads and rotors. Never ending forking out of money in motor sport, eh.

Solution -
DD to Track car in under 15mins

The cheapest way is to just do a cooldown lap after every 3 laps.

Unless you're actually racing (and not just doing a trackday setting laptimes) there's no point to force teh car to do 5laps straight and cook the tyres and brakes.

Zcootz wrote:FTFY???? What does that stand for ?

Fixed That For You

Zcootz wrote:FTFY???? What does that stand for ?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=FTFY

Dann

Stu, do you use the rattle gun with the 949 lug nuts?

hks_kansei wrote:

Zcootz wrote:FTFY???? What does that stand for ?

Fixed That For You

Cheers, man I'm feeling old, nearly had to ask my 13 year old son that. You saved me. Lol

saboteur wrote:Stu, do you use the rattle gun with the 949 lug nuts?

Yes
But i dont rattle them on hard - i use a torque wrench to make sure they are even

That Ryobi rattle gun is very easy to controll speed

^
I have the same setup as MINX and use the rattle gun to remove the 949 Alu lug nuts but NOT to tighten them, I do that by hand + torque wrench.

Previously I had a demonic Ozito rattle gun that only had two speeds, OFF and ludicrously-ON - if I used it to tighten the wheel nuts, they would be permanently welded onto the rim (it's now safely locked away to prevent potential devastation to all of humanity).

The Ryobi rattle-gun speed is more controllable but I'm still having nightmares about the Ozito rattle gun so prefer to tighten the Alu lug nuts by hand.