OH NOES!!! Brake pedal Freeplay adjustment NA
Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 5:01 pm
Ok, i have made a BOO BOO!
When i was struggling to remove the Pedal Box, in my FRUSTRATION, i actually at one point though i needed to remove the pushrod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
I now know this was not needed, and i never actually removed it.
What i stupidly did was just start unscrewing the whole rod before coming to my senses and realising that was the wrong thing to do.
After getting the pedal box back in the car i just twisted it a few times, was not even sure if it is threaded on not on the otherside.
The side where it connects to the master cylinder i presume.
Then returned the locking clip and finished the job.
It seemed to go back onto the pedal and i inserted the pin.
Cut to a few days later, i finally get a chance to go for a quick drive to try and get this Locking wheel nut removed.
Seems fine, though i do notice the brakes feeling stiffer. Almost as if i had braided lines.
After a very short time, and a few brakes the pedal goes rock hard and i can tell the brakes are actually clamping down.
Let it all cool down, and get the car back home.
I now realise, after a quick search that the BRAKE PEDAL FREE PLAY is CRUCIAL!!!
What i think i have done is lost all freeplay, which allows no space for the transfer port to do its job and allow the fluid to return.
After a few braking moments the fluid heats up making it even worse.
Is there a way to reset this Freeplay from home so it is correct or is this going to cost me BIG BUCKS?
Feel like such a Dick. I do not usually make those kind of mistakes.
I need to get this right for when i install the new brakes and rotors i have coming.
Do not want to ruin them obviously.
When i was struggling to remove the Pedal Box, in my FRUSTRATION, i actually at one point though i needed to remove the pushrod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
I now know this was not needed, and i never actually removed it.
What i stupidly did was just start unscrewing the whole rod before coming to my senses and realising that was the wrong thing to do.
After getting the pedal box back in the car i just twisted it a few times, was not even sure if it is threaded on not on the otherside.
The side where it connects to the master cylinder i presume.
Then returned the locking clip and finished the job.
It seemed to go back onto the pedal and i inserted the pin.
Cut to a few days later, i finally get a chance to go for a quick drive to try and get this Locking wheel nut removed.
Seems fine, though i do notice the brakes feeling stiffer. Almost as if i had braided lines.
After a very short time, and a few brakes the pedal goes rock hard and i can tell the brakes are actually clamping down.
Let it all cool down, and get the car back home.
I now realise, after a quick search that the BRAKE PEDAL FREE PLAY is CRUCIAL!!!
What i think i have done is lost all freeplay, which allows no space for the transfer port to do its job and allow the fluid to return.
After a few braking moments the fluid heats up making it even worse.
Is there a way to reset this Freeplay from home so it is correct or is this going to cost me BIG BUCKS?
Feel like such a Dick. I do not usually make those kind of mistakes.
I need to get this right for when i install the new brakes and rotors i have coming.
Do not want to ruin them obviously.
