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Anyone had any exprience with using longer wheel studs?

I wanna run some longer wheel nuts and maybe even spacers so I need the longer studs.

Ryan

p.s. I am aware that spacers are illegal on Queensland roads.

I would never use spacers that require longer wheel studs as they move the load from the hub to the studs, which aren't designed to take the load.

I have however used bolt on spacers which do retain the hub mounting with no downsides in over 6 years on a track car.

Its pretty easy to install studs but generally pplz angle grind them down to reduce rotational mass...

ARP do a longer wheel stud, ( approx 20mm), my wheels are thicker where they bolt up , and I wanted more engagement in the alloy nuts. ( I know it defeats the purpose, light weight wheel nuts, then fitting heavier studs.)

We use long studs on the race cars - been using them for years. ARP do them as do a few other companies - Meridian Motorsport usually stock them too. FYI the rear hubs need to be pulled apart and the bearing replaced to change the studs. Anyone who uses an angle grinder on a wheel stud deserves to hit something - hard.

ARP rear studs for the NB have the flat in one side (like the Mazda ones) so no need to dismantle the hub.

bretauto wrote:ARP rear studs for the NB have the flat in one side (like the Mazda ones) so no need to dismantle the hub.

I know - mine wouldn't go in.......

I had no problems fitting mine

I had no problems fitting my Nice Products studs, a little tight past the upright but they went in.

And to Rascal who made the comment about the load on the studs, that is not an accurate statement; even in the said case the load is transfered to the hub face through friction, the studs are loaded in tension as normal.

Tim