hi,questions of 17' rim on NA6 thanks

Wheels, Suspension, Brakes & Tyres questions and answers

Moderators: timk, Stu, zombie, Andrew, -alex, miata

lanoshow

hi,questions of 17' rim on NA6 thanks

Postby lanoshow » Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:21 am

hey, everyone, i have some questions about upgrade my current wheels.
I have 185/60/14R on my 1990 NA6.
i am interesting of buying a 17 inch wheels, detail sa below:

Kspeed Daytona 17\"x7\" with Nankang 205/40R17
4x100 & 4x114.3
offset 40

Anyone put 17 inch rims on NA6? have any problems like wheels are too big, can contact with your suspension or something?
anyone using 17' on their na6 to TRACK DRIVE? any good?


cheers

User avatar
Boags
Speed Racer
Posts: 3533
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:25 pm
Vehicle: NB SP
Location: Brisvegas
Contact:

Re: hi,questions of 17' rim on NA6 thanks

Postby Boags » Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:34 am

lanoshow wrote:anyone using 17' on their na6 to TRACK DRIVE? any good?


For the track? No good at all.

Boags
Spartan Motor Sport : http://www.SpartanMS.com.au

User avatar
adamjp
Racing Driver
Posts: 519
Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Sthn NSW
Contact:

Postby adamjp » Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:06 am

When I bought my car it had 17x7 Speedy wheels on it.

I think that the most polite way I can express my regard for this size on an early MX5 is to tell you that I am now running 15x6.5.

The problems with the 17's....

Tyres are very expensive, and hard to get. Good tyres even more so.
They weigh far too much - this affects the ride, and the acceleration of the car.
The thin sidewall can setup some difficult handling issues.
It does not take much to get a flat.
The rims rub against gutters so easily it is not funny.
You lose any ability to deal with rough roads.

The advantages of going to 15's....

Good tyres are cheap (~$100 each per rim less than 17's).
The selection of tyres is excellent.
Good rims are available cheaply in 15.
The police cannot hassle you over wheel size.
Rough roads OK.
Acceleration better.
Handling better.
Ride better.
Gutter rash gone.
Normal sized tyre = no problems with a repair.

In short - don't do it.
Adam
RX7AFM PortedHead 11.5:1 HKS264Cams&Gears CeramicCoatedExtractors FlowExhaust Strut&BodyBraces Eibachs Konis SparcoRims Striped

qikshift

Re:

Postby qikshift » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:36 am

agree with everything above.

Also your rolling diameter will be increased by i think approx 1.8 - 2 cms total if your going from 185/60/14 to 205/40/17 ... trust me im hanging to get rid of my 17's!!! when i find the right set of 15's my 17's will be going in the bin! (maybe literally haha)

my 2c

mark

adamjp wrote:When I bought my car it had 17x7 Speedy wheels on it.

I think that the most polite way I can express my regard for this size on an early MX5 is to tell you that I am now running 15x6.5.

The problems with the 17's....

Tyres are very expensive, and hard to get. Good tyres even more so.
They weigh far too much - this affects the ride, and the acceleration of the car.
The thin sidewall can setup some difficult handling issues.
It does not take much to get a flat.
The rims rub against gutters so easily it is not funny.
You lose any ability to deal with rough roads.

The advantages of going to 15's....

Good tyres are cheap (~$100 each per rim less than 17's).
The selection of tyres is excellent.
Good rims are available cheaply in 15.
The police cannot hassle you over wheel size.
Rough roads OK.
Acceleration better.
Handling better.
Ride better.
Gutter rash gone.
Normal sized tyre = no problems with a repair.

In short - don't do it.

User avatar
Steampunk
Speed Racer
Posts: 4670
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:16 am
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Southside of Breeze-bane

Postby Steampunk » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:10 am

Well made points. You would only put 17\"'s or above if you like the look of big wheels and low-profile tyes.
If you want a more \"racy\" look then stay below 16\". Just take a look at ANY car racing and you never see huge wheels with thin tyres, extreme case in point, look at what F1 cars run.
Image

Rob E
Fast Driver
Posts: 485
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Sydney
Contact:

Postby Rob E » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:13 am

Another \"dont do it\" aside from the looks (hate big wheels on small cars) from a performance standpoint its all bad.......taller gearing (= slower acceleration), more weight = worse handling and braking.

User avatar
adamjp
Racing Driver
Posts: 519
Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Sthn NSW
Contact:

Postby adamjp » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:28 am

Acceleration does not just drop due to the increased diameter.

It also drops because the wheels weigh more AND that weight is further out on the circumference of the wheel. Both of these bad things increases the rotational inertia of the wheel, which reduces your ability to change the rotational speed (accelerate or decelerate).

In simple terms, it takes more energy to accelerate a heavy object if it is further out from the central point. Think of a fishing sinker on a piece of string, simple to twirl fast on a 5cm string, harder on a 10cm string, harder still if you double it's weight.
Adam
RX7AFM PortedHead 11.5:1 HKS264Cams&Gears CeramicCoatedExtractors FlowExhaust Strut&BodyBraces Eibachs Konis SparcoRims Striped

User avatar
AB7
Racing Driver
Posts: 637
Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:42 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Melbourne

Re:

Postby AB7 » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:51 am

I read somewhere that 1 KG inclease in unsprung weight equal to around 10 KG in actual rotational inertia of the wheel? Is that correct?

BTW just say that the 17" + tyres size and weight combo is the same as 15", would it be the same?

adamjp wrote:Acceleration does not just drop due to the increased diameter.

It also drops because the wheels weigh more AND that weight is further out on the circumference of the wheel. Both of these bad things increases the rotational inertia of the wheel, which reduces your ability to change the rotational speed (accelerate or decelerate).

In simple terms, it takes more energy to accelerate a heavy object if it is further out from the central point. Think of a fishing sinker on a piece of string, simple to twirl fast on a 5cm string, harder on a 10cm string, harder still if you double it's weight.

Adam_NAclubman
Racing Driver
Posts: 1418
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:39 pm
Vehicle: NA8 - Turbo
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Contact:

Postby Adam_NAclubman » Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:48 pm

As everyone else has said, from a performance angle, don't do it!



But even if you decide to get them anyway because you don't care about the performance or the feel and just want to look cool when you pulll up outside the cafe, I'd still say don't get them. +40 offset on a 7 inch rim won't look at all tough, they'll still be an inch and a half/two inches inboard of the edge of the guards. If you get big wheels just to make the car look cool, do it properly

User avatar
meanmx
Racing Driver
Posts: 1493
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:41 pm
Vehicle: NB8B
Location: Point Cook, Melbourne

Postby meanmx » Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:40 pm

Do a search. This topic has been done to death. If you like it do it!!! Plenty of NA drivers have 17's and love them, myself included. You may want to definately lower it afterwards as it will sit quite high.

Ben
2014 VW Mk7 Golf R
2001 Black NB8B viewtopic.php?f=57&t=58136
1986 Mazda Luce Royal Classic (13BT Mazda 929)

User avatar
corners
Racing Driver
Posts: 1127
Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:33 pm
Vehicle: ND - Supercharged
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Postby corners » Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:04 pm

Sweet
I had this same question. So now I will shop around for 15's.

Can anyone recommend anywhere good?

User avatar
adamjp
Racing Driver
Posts: 519
Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Sthn NSW
Contact:

Postby adamjp » Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:28 pm

I read somewhere that 1 KG inclease in unsprung weight equal to around 10 KG in actual rotational inertia of the wheel? Is that correct?


Mate I can't remember the formula, just the principle :?

But if I remember it correctly a 1kg increase (on say a 8kg rim) at the outside circumference, is far more than a 1/8th increase in rotational mass. Probably a radius related function.

A quick google sends me to the moment of inertia page on Wikipedia...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia

BTW just say that the 17\" + tyres size and weight combo is the same as 15\", would it be the same?


No, not for the vehicle acceleration part. The weight is distributed differently. It is always going to be worse unless the rim is so much lighter it is not funny.

For other handling related issues (acceleration of suspension) it should be no different as the weight is now acting in a different plane.
Adam
RX7AFM PortedHead 11.5:1 HKS264Cams&Gears CeramicCoatedExtractors FlowExhaust Strut&BodyBraces Eibachs Konis SparcoRims Striped

qikshift

Re:

Postby qikshift » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:48 pm

yup this topic has been done to death on every mx5/miata forum.. but hell do we all like responding to it when it crops up again haha.

at the end of the day mate do whatever you think is best for YOUR car and YOUR style .. thats all that matters :)

meanmx wrote:Do a search. This topic has been done to death. If you like it do it!!! Plenty of NA drivers have 17's and love them, myself included. You may want to definately lower it afterwards as it will sit quite high.

Ben

MXkal
Driver
Posts: 67
Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:14 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Central coast

Postby MXkal » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:56 pm

I took my 17x7.5 BSAs off after i wrote the NA8 off, Fixed the damage and put a set of 15s on it. Will never go back. Mabye some 16x8 RP-F1 from goodwin racing would be my max but the 17s did look nice.
Overkill is an understatement.

EGG80X
Racing Driver
Posts: 577
Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:56 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Sydney

Postby EGG80X » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:07 pm

might as well bin my 17\"s the way this is going


Return to “MX5 Wheels, Suspension, Brakes & Tyres”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 179 guests