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For those people who have adjustable suspension eg Teins, Koni, Bilstein PSS... what have you done with the boot mouldings?

I have just put a set of Tein SS on the NB (which are awesome BTW ) . I like to fiddle around with shock settings from time to time, but I want to put the boot mouldings back in to hide the wires and sound deadening from my custom stereo install. Is there a way to put them back in and allow easy access to the strut towers to adjust the shocks?

At the moment I am considering leaving out the metal guard for the fuel lines and cutting a window in the moulding so i can easily reach the rear passenger shock top.

Alternatively, I was wondering if I could attach some sort of extension to the shocks such as the autoexe setup for the NC's. You can see them on the rear shocks in the pic:

Anyboday have any ideas on how I could possibly achieve something similar to the setup above? I am not too keen on shelling out for EDFC at this point in time.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

KYB AGXs aren't quite in the same league, but do have their adjustment knobs on the side of the strut itself so you just need to reach around the wheel and turn to adjust it.

Teins + EDFC can be had for relatively cheap if you know where to look

jonno.

I only remove the boot trim bit when I adjust the Konis, then put it back on. There shouldn't be any need to change the settings every day (or even every week).

I like those extension lead thingys!

Wouldnt be too difficult to whip up your own custom version of one of those for your SS, have a look see at a camera store or telescope shop where they have a similar flexible extension thing to isolate the tripod from your shaky hands as you try and adjust it. Failing that have a look at a hardwear store at those clear PVC tubes, find one big enough to fit snuggly over the adjuster knob and wella, instant remote adjustment...

I LIKE IT!

My inner panel and spare live in the garage, no problem with shock access!

I like your thinking sirbob.

I dont adjust my shocks much but it's a pain ripping the boot to pieces when I need too.

I usually run at a pretty mild setting for daily driving and for the comfort of the GF. But when I'm going for a spirited run, I'd like the ease of poping the bonnet/boot, adjusting the shocks and off I go - all without undoing the boot trim etc.

It's especially a pain when the stereo set up is like this:


The PVC tube seems like a nifty idea! Thanks sirbob! Another excuse for me to visit bunnings!

I LOVE that sub install! Where from and how much?

Here, here. Beautiful sub install!

Jules

BTW. Are they better in the boot or parcel shelf?

Just found that tein do make an extension for adjustable dampers called a \"flexible controller\"


It's priced at 5000 yen for a pair. I'll stick to the flexible tubing idea for the time being!

OT:

Bevan - I'll send you a PM

Jules - I haven't listened to any parcel shelf installs so I can't give you any feedback on that. This system sounds awesome nevertheless! Especially when combined with 8inch splits up front!

The boot is a great place to put the sub Jules.
The whole boot acts as the speaker box, and the 2 ports that run from the boot to the passenger compartment direct the sound inside the car.
When listening, you can't tell where the sub is, only that you and the rear vision mirrors are vibrating!
I must admit that when the boot is full of stuff, the bass is attenuated a bit, but still noticeable and very enjoyable.
You don't know how good music sounds until you have a sub woofer.
It adds a lot of life and depth to the music.

I have PSS9's in my SP, and adjusting the rears is a real pain as my hands are just too big to get into the small space between the steel bits to adjust the rears, so I just leave them around the middle setting and only adjust the fronts for track days.
You really don't want the rears set too stiff, or the car becomes very tailly at racing speeds.

I have the PPS9s, and as i track it pretty frquently , adjusting the LR was going to be a pain. So I took out the fibre bit, enlarged the hole in the tin, and then put two slits in the fibre where I had enlarged the hole. The fibre is flexible enough to bend when I reach in to turn the adjuster and sufficiently stiff to rebound back in place.

The plastic tube is a great idea, but I don't know how far it might damp out the 'clicks'. My LR is hard enough to feel with my fingers, much 'softer' in feel that the others ...