EBC yellow stuff opinions

Sailor · Postby **Sailor** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:45 pm

Charlie Brown wrote: Swapping pads is easy on the NC also. When I pull off the wheels for track day it’s just two bolts to remove the calliper and slip in the new pads, check the slider pins and do it back up.

Correction:
ONE bolt and pivot the caliper up.
Way too easy.

On the reds for FRONTS on trackdays, I again concur.
While I didn't tear the friction material away, when I checked after getting home, the friction material was a crazed and cooked mess.
Brakes were still OK, but I can see that another trackday with them would have met with disaster.

Gmi · Postby **Gmi** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 8:47 pm

I read on some jap forums people use fine sand paper and wet sand the pads before putting them in.. Is that ok?? Or.. Not a good idea? I'm guessing you'll have to sand it evenly. Lol

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:14 am

Have you checked the EBC site, I'm almost sure last time I was on there they had bedding in instructions and their pads had a special layer of bedding in material.

plohl · Postby **plohl** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:28 am

EBC Troubleshoot

Gmi · Postby **Gmi** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:30 am

plohl wrote:EBC Troubleshoot

:p love it

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:03 am

Gmi wrote:I read on some jap forums people use fine sand paper and wet sand the pads before putting them in.. Is that ok?? Or.. Not a good idea? I'm guessing you'll have to sand it evenly. Lol

Shouldn't cause any harm, but also won't really give much benefit.

the whole bedding process should do exactly the same thing.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:04 am

Pads can sometimes develop a glaze and then you can use fine sandpaper to take it off but it shouldn't be done (or be needed) on new pads.

inbetweendaze · Postby **inbetweendaze** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:26 pm

EBC Yellowstuff works well on the track in std class NC - in my very limited experience. I use with slotted DBA rotors. The pads/ rotors do work (alright) to and fro to track, however they are dusty and wear very quickly on the road... Thus I use std Mazda pads and rotors on the road.

To me the feel (of the EBC Yellowstuff) not as good as Performance Friction's Carbon Metallic pads, but different car/ tandem master cylinder/ multi-pot calipers vs std NC single pot slider is probably not a fair comparison. Similar experience to Mr C. Brown w.r.t. bedding in.

Using Motul RBF 660 fluid - overkill, but elimates one variable, I guess.

kris · Postby **kris** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:12 pm

Anyone want to share a box (12) of Motul rbf600? Pm me

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:22 pm

manga_blue wrote:As far as rotors go, slotted ones stop faster and drilled ones crack. I've just changed from slotted DBA 4000s at the front to slotted RDAs and I'm not noticing any difference in performance.

I take back anything I said about RDA rotors. My bad. The pair of RDA fronts that I just installed has a 25mm radial crack after 2 track days -they are now scrap iron. The old set of DBAs lasted about 30 track days.
Thanks to Dean at Motorsport Essentials (yet again) for sourcing and fitting DBA4000s on short notice at a crazy price.