suspension bushing advise

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:03 am

you should be able to buy OEM bushes from Mazda spares. The links eg to IL are saying that the ride is not going to be as supple as standard. If you like the standard suspension feel then stay with it. Presumably you can replace only the bushes you require not have to buy them all. I reckon you bench mark all costs both local and o/s. Personally I would not do anything to compromise the ride on my car- a hard ride is not easy to live with and the car already handles well- but its your call.

MxJadeMonkey · Postby **MxJadeMonkey** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:47 am

Poly bushes are not all the same at all, actually the gap between the technology used in Nolothane as opposed to say Super Pro is quite large. The Super Pro one's for the MX5 are 70 duro btw and anything hard than this in an MX5 is just silly, even in a track car the highest you would use should be 80 duro.

If a Superpro bush is what your after, having them installed correctly is a must, a lot of poeple choose to use their own homemade tooling and things like hammers and vices to fit them/press them in, then they have a fit when the bush itself fails.

Making sure to install them correctly will give you years and years of trouble free squeak free motoring. As for super pro Squeaking, they will only do so if incorrect lube is used or not enough of correct lube is used. After all, Super pro buhses are in fact self lubricating, i.e the bush sweats once installed using the right lube.

BTWm I wouldn't piss on a Nolothane bush, they are one of the worst on sale today, same with Kmac.

koop21 · Postby **koop21** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 3:58 pm

Just made the purchase, will let you guys know how i go when they get here and installed.

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:29 pm

MxJadeMonkey wrote:Poly bushes are not all the same at all, actually the gap between the technology used in Nolothane as opposed to say Super Pro is quite large. The Super Pro one's for the MX5 are 70 duro btw and anything hard than this in an MX5 is just silly, even in a track car the highest you would use should be 80 duro.

If a Superpro bush is what your after, having them installed correctly is a must, a lot of poeple choose to use their own homemade tooling and things like hammers and vices to fit them/press them in, then they have a fit when the bush itself fails.

Making sure to install them correctly will give you years and years of trouble free squeak free motoring. As for super pro Squeaking, they will only do so if incorrect lube is used or not enough of correct lube is used. After all, Super pro buhses are in fact self lubricating, i.e the bush sweats once installed using the right lube.

BTWm I wouldn't piss on a Nolothane bush, they are one of the worst on sale today, same with Kmac.

You speak with conviction so I wont challenge you, but can you please explain why you would not use anything greater than an 80 shore rating for a lightweight car?

Dann

MxJadeMonkey · Postby **MxJadeMonkey** » Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:35 am

Sure,

It's not so much being a lightweight vehicle as it is being that 70 duro in a Super Pro bush is enough to do what it is designed to do, which is, give greater feel, tighter handling, faster/sharper results.

I have a lot of people asking about putting 80 or even 90 into their vehicles, the simple answer is, Why?

Why, would you want to fit that style of poly bushing?

95% of the time, the answer with the same two things, either: Harder is better, right? or My mate told me thats what I need.

90 duro is a very specific style and design of bush for any application, most of the time it is requested or even used, a 70 or 80 will be the job just fine, and not transmit as much NVH and feel like sh*t.

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:09 pm

I have 90s in my car. It hasnt got windows. 90 is great for me. Your argument is that the vast majority dont have a great need for it, not that theres no time and place. Yeah?

Dann

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:23 pm

I think the question was answered- sacrificing comfort- if you are burning around a racetrack it is not the same as sitting behind the wheel for hours on commuter roads. People ask for advice but often do not define purpose and intent. Lap times are not relevant on the roads- that is clearly evident in todays esp restrictive regime.

trader · Postby **trader** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:15 am

Does anyone know whether the IL Motorsport bushes are poly or rubber like OEM's? I have heard they are the closest thing to OEM but cant fid any specs on them.
Has anyone actually tried them and able to comment.
Also are there any tricks to installing OEM ones or do you do it the same as poly's and just use rubber grease.
Thanks

koop21 · Postby **koop21** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:42 pm

Finally finished putting in all the bushes except for diff bushes. I did them in stages front first, then rears. After i did the fronts you can immediately feel the car is alot tighter and less roll and you notice the rear bounce on the old bushes. Once i finished off the rears the mx felt much more solid and more direct, reduced body roll and alot stiffer(not in a bad way). Oh and my mx only has racing beat springs with oem springs, so the bushes made a big improvement. One down fall is the car hits hard if you drive into holes which is expected so nothing surprising here.
This took me 1 week to complete fully; this includes rust repair and painting sussy parts which i didnt not expect to do when i initially started and i only had very basic tools.

ps. even though this is a 2 piece bush kit, you still need to get the end links pressed in which is abit annoying having to spend money for someone to do this for you or purchasing your own press tool.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:42 am

kpp21 wrote:Finally finished putting in all the bushes except for diff bushes.

I wouldn't bother with the diff bushes. Once they're in they'll transmit an incredible amount of NVH through the floor of the car. I'd only use them for a hardcore unregistered stripped track car.

KIJIMA · Postby **KIJIMA** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:21 pm

Correct.

Doing the suspension in either Hs70, Hs80 or Hs90 doesn't have 'that' much effect on NVH as other things do. Doing the diff bushes certainly does though. Like most things it's drivertrain bushes like engine, gearbox and diff that will transmit most of the NVH directly into the cabin. Do the engine and gearbox bushes and on startup when the car is cold it'll feel like the engine is about to fall out of your car.

Tyres, springs and uprights will have more to contribute to NVH than suspension bushing do, at least that has been my experience.

botisto · Postby **botisto** » Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:14 am

Will the energy poly bushes break if you don't re grease them? Or will they still work well but just sequel a lot? They look like a good cheap alternative for a mostly track car but i don't want to continuously take it all apart and re grease them...