16' tyres, advice sought

Fatty · Postby **Fatty** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:39 pm

just "running around" on the 14's won't seem like a huge difference, but take it for a spirited mountain drive, GOR drive etc and i think you'll be surprised.

but yes the 16's look awesome, as i said there is always compromises to be made whichever way you go and at the end of the day you are the one who has to make the decision and be happy with whatever choice you make.

i was just chucking in my 2c .

fattima · Postby **fattima** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 8:22 pm

bensale wrote: the 16's were only around 2kg a corner heavier

Don't talk like that in front of Wun :lol:

I think I have mentioned to you before how happy I am with the G3s and the RE001s sound like they are better again from what I have heard. I've not run on 16s but I'm more than happy with my 14s on the track.

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:27 pm

No, thanks for that Fatty, you've given me something to think about, would have been a lot easier for me if you hadn't piped up :mrgreen:

If a set of nb8a wheels came up about now with or without some decent rubber I would be seriously tempted. I may have to have to go on a bit of a spirited drive with the 14's on to really get a feel for them. Although I've gone reasonably quick throught the industrial estate with them, hence I know the steering response is slightly better, I also have slightly more feel as the car begins the under/over steer. However, the differences are very small and probebly to a large extent down to the tyres. What are Yoko A539's surposed to be like as a tyre? I think they were superceded by either the C-drive or the S-drive.

fattima wrote:
bensale wrote: the 16's were only around 2kg a corner heavier

Don't talk like that in front of Wun

I think I have mentioned to you before how happy I am with the G3s and the RE001s sound like they are better again from what I have heard. I've not run on 16s but I'm more than happy with my 14s on the track.

Sorry Wun, although seriously, even through its unsprung weight 2kg isn't that much. It's not like i'm running chrome 17's that weigh about 10kg a corner more than OEM.

And yes you did tell me about the G3's, better than the RT615's... That really impressed me. My plan all along has been to not run 16's at the track, if I did it would knock me out of standard class too....

blue_na · Postby **blue_na** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:31 pm

I have the same rims, and there is a big difference in feel, especially noticable on the track. The low profile also seems to make them alot less predictable at the limit. My choice would be to make do with the 16's for daily good looks, but when you want to go for a spirited run or a track day, have a set of semi-slicks or good street tyres on the stock 14's stashed away for the occasion. All comes down to $$$ though, but this could be a cheaper option that gives the best of both worlds.

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:39 pm

Thanks for that, I have noticed the additional feel, although minor on the road it would probebly be amplified on the track. Thats basically what i've been planning on doing although having an all encomapssing set is quite tempting. What tyres are you currently running?

blue_na · Postby **blue_na** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:57 pm

Currenty have Sumitomo HTRZIII's on the 16's. Will probably be looking at a set of Falken RT615's to put on the 14's next, from what I've heard they are about half-way between a street tyre and a "real" semi-slick. The 14's also tend to be better on poor surfaced roads. (like alot of the GOR)
The only downside to this is you can't just go for a run, you have to change wheels every time...

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 2:42 pm

I'm tempted by the idea of some adrenalin's on my 14's and something else less expensive on my 16's. If I were to do that the Toyo Proxes 4's sound tempting. As does something like a Falken ZE 329 or Pirelli Drago. How have you found the Sumitomo's? What do people think about this? If I could get the 16's for under $150 each it won't really cost me that mouch more than buying one set of re001's.

Fatty · Postby **Fatty** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 3:35 pm

seems like a pretty good idea to me. changing to the 14's when want to go for a spirited drive is no big deal it only takes 15 minutes or so. and this way you are extending their life as you're not putting around on them day to day.

Boags · Postby **Boags** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:37 pm

To throw another point of view into the mix; I find running 2 sets of wheels time consuming and expensive.

Your dialy driver tyres are on the car 99% of the time. This is when you need GOOD tyres to save you from the madman in the falcon/commodore/4WD turning in front of you when he doesn't see you.

Hence, you want the best rubbr you can afford.

On the track if you make a little boo boo you are headed towards a wall or another car at high speed.

Hence, you want the best rubber you can afford.

If you can't afford to run 2 sets of rims with good rubber; run one set.

My 2c.

(I run Yoko A Drive R1 in 205/45 R16 daily - ferking good tyre @ $215/corner - and Toyo R888 in 205/50 R15 on the track)

Fatty · Postby **Fatty** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:45 pm

yeah i was really impressed with the a-drives when i drove your car boags. they had bags of grip thru the twisty stuff.

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:38 pm

You make a fine point Boags, although it's not like I'll be running nexens' or something horrible like that. I've found that my current turanza's which aren't a highly regarded tyre allowed me to easily out brake anything at one of the driver training day I did, including a new 2008 fg (?) xr6 turbo. However, I take your point on board, it is always best to have the highest level of grip possible.

I think this is something I really have to think about. The Yoko a539's I'm running on my 14's have a bit of life left in them and are quite a nice tyre (highly regarded as I've read up too) So it's not like I have to make the decision tomorrow.

Thank you everyone for your advice it's much apreciated. Any further advice or even good placed to buy tyres in Melbourne would be much apreciated.

wun911 · Postby **wun911** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:57 pm

You saved 2 kg of rotational mass I just jizzed myself! hrmz another weight saving idea just came to mind.

Your not rotating that mass fast enough ie maybe your driving too slowly to notice the differnce.

Damo · Postby **Damo** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:22 am

wun911 wrote:I just jizzed myself! hrmz another weight saving idea just came to mind.

ROFL

blue_na · Postby **blue_na** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 6:33 pm

Even with two good sets of tyres on different rims, it will still work out cheaper in the long run than running 16's all the time.
If you use the 16's for spirited driving and track days, you will still go through 2 sets over the same time as 2 sets on 2 rims (depending on the amount of spirited/track driving).
With two sets of rims/tyres, you can still run good tyres on the 16's, but they will last alot longer since you will be wearing out the cheaper (14's usually being cheaper than 16's) tyres.

For example, over a year with daily and aggressive driving, you might go through 2 sets of good 16" rubber.
Or in the same year with same driving, you could go through 1 set of good 16" rubber and 1 set of good 14" rubber.

The second option will be cheaper, plus you will have better handling for aggressive driving!

Again, all comes down to how often you want to look good and how often you want to drive like you mean it! :mrgreen:

although you can still drive hard on the 16's if you feel like it...

Just my 2c... (if any of that makes sense? :lol:

almost confused myself!)

Boags · Postby **Boags** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:43 pm

Good point; except R888 are around $260/corner in 205/50 R15 as opposed to good 16" rubber @ ~$215/corner...

So while option 2 is more expensive, I agree with you. Which is why even though I'm lazy and hate changing tyres over, I do it anyway. The R888 are just sensational on the track...