NA6 to NB8B UPGRADE

jko · Postby **jko** » Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:56 pm

Hi guys,

I'm looking to upgrade to NB8B brakes for my turbo NA6 and have some questions:

I currently have braided lines and read in different places that it would be compatible and other places, it wouldn't be. Can someone confirm this?

Is it necessary to change the rears too? Or would the fronts be already enough?

Would I need to get myself an NB8B proportioning valve also?

Lastly, is it worth grabbing an NB8B master cylinder + brake booster to go along with the upgrade.

Car is for street + track.

sorry im noob

lightyear · Postby **lightyear** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 4:19 am

You can buy willwood fronts for about a grand. Just do that. Get an adjustable brake prop valve too.

Phillbert · Postby **Phillbert** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:23 pm

The reason the brake lines may not be compatible is the NB8B front brake lines are a smidge longer than the NA lines, to accommodate the calipers being spaced a bit further from the centre of the hub. At full lock you will see the brake lines stretching a fair bit. If you just replace the front two you will be sweet.

I changed F+R calipers/rotors as i use mine for track work so the more rear braking i can achieve the better.

Not sure how different the proportioning valves are. Mine has NA6 master with wilwood proportioning valve and at full rear setting it still locks the fronts first.

Re changing the master, I'm not sure. I feel the pedal is a bit soft for heel/toe downshifts with the NA6 master. I recently purchsed a NB8B master but havent installed/done enough research yet.

jko · Postby **jko** » Sun Mar 19, 2017 4:43 pm

lightyear wrote:You can buy willwood fronts for about a grand. Just do that. Get an adjustable brake prop valve too.

But NB8B brakes are like only 300-400 though and seem like they will be more than enough braking power for the amount of power that im running (250hp).

Phillbert wrote:The reason the brake lines may not be compatible is the NB8B front brake lines are a smidge longer than the NA lines, to accommodate the calipers being spaced a bit further from the centre of the hub. At full lock you will see the brake lines stretching a fair bit. If you just replace the front two you will be sweet.

I changed F+R calipers/rotors as i use mine for track work so the more rear braking i can achieve the better.

Not sure how different the proportioning valves are. Mine has NA6 master with wilwood proportioning valve and at full rear setting it still locks the fronts first.

Re changing the master, I'm not sure. I feel the pedal is a bit soft for heel/toe downshifts with the NA6 master. I recently purchsed a NB8B master but havent installed/done enough research yet.

Thanks for the feedback Phillbert.

jko · Postby **jko** » Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:20 pm

Anyone have any other inputs?

jordan.k · Postby **jordan.k** » Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:50 pm

jko wrote:Anyone have any other inputs?

You will need to bend back your dust shield or get nb ones as they will rub on the rotor. Or some people remove them completely

Found out when putting nb8a brakes on my na6.

cookie · Postby **cookie** » Wed Mar 22, 2017 10:53 pm

Removal is preferred. Makes bearing changes easier in the future... a pair for decent bearings cost me 120 a few days ago.

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jko · Postby **jko** » Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:15 pm

jordan.k wrote:
jko wrote:Anyone have any other inputs?

You will need to bend back your dust shield or get nb ones as they will rub on the rotor. Or some people remove them completely

Found out when putting nb8a brakes on my na6.

Would the NB8B dust covers fit? Seller nicely offered to throw them in for free.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:21 am

take them,
they may be a Pain in the back to change but will look nicer.

Ive got NB8A front brakes. I just bent the covers back a little. Mind you it never bothers me.But then I'm not that type of person top let that bother me. If I had the opportunity to put the proper covers on for free I would though. Just makes it more complete.

cookie · Postby **cookie** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:35 am

Your bearing will look like this once you remove the rear stub axles to remove the shield. You then need to buy a new bearing. It's not hard with a press if you have access.

Also I never bothered upgrading my booster/master cylinder. The na6 booster is a higher multiplier than nb8b so it's a but more touchy but my pedal felt great. Maybe with cheapo tyres you might lockup accidently but not with something decent. Hope this helps.

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