replacing rotors and pads

[Regie]

Since the trackday today my front pads have been sequeeling all the way home

looking at buying a set of slotted rotors and pads over the weekend

just a few questions (ive already done a quick search)

is it worth upgrading to the DBA 4000 series over the standard DBA slotted rotor (ill be doing maybe 3-4 track days a year) worth the extra $$

EBC greenstuff ive herd nothing but praise about. except the road noise during daily driving. what about the red stuff pads?

also im looking at fitting them all myself. Easy enough job i assume. is there any guides out there to help me along?

Thanks in advance

[16bit]

greenstuff won't do it on the track. i would go with ds2500 (one of the few that will do both well from what I have heard) - the rotors should be fine. even cheaper to go rda. i have had no problems with them.

[Hellmun]

The DS2500's were excellent..I've killed 2 sets of them but they are very pricey now. Last quote I got was $450 for just the fronts. Hawk HP+ are similar, found they didn't have the heat range but had more bite from a lower temperature. More dust on the hawks than ferodo's though. HP+ is less than half the price though.

[Regie]

cool. but then again anything is better than the OEM pads.. (im pretty sure they are the orignial pads)

[Hellmun]

I've actually heard nothing but awesome about the oem pads from Mazda... they were ceramic Akebono pads from what I understand. High temperature rating, average bite and extremely low dust. I just don't think you can get them anymore easily. I though Mazda australia started putting Bendix pads as the oem ones when you get them from the dealer.

[16bit]

yeah the jap oem pads are apparently very good. i think in aus you get dealer approved which are not the same. they are simial to the carbo tech range which apparently are the dogs.

[marcusus]

I'm pretty much set on buying some Hawk HP Plus tomorrow. Hopefully I won't need something silly like new rotors just as yet.

[Charlie Brown]

Regie, I'd try just the new pads first up without the slotted rotors, as you are only doing 4 track days a year.

If you get serious and start chasing tenths of a second then you will need some dedicated track pads and a set of the 4000 rotors.

I'm running the HPS at the moment and finding them fine for the road and about 4 laps of the track but after that they seem to glaze over and trying to pull up the car is a problem but then I do drive on the limit. I need to go to Hawk Blues as a track pad.

[Regie]

Cool thanks guys for the responses. I might just get a decent set of pads first and see how that goes

[marcusus]

Just a heads up too that it seems that no one has any Hawk HP Plus in stock anywhere, which is a bit of a bummer. Looks like I'll have to wait until next time to try them.

[Regie]

Hey marcus. I'll go and see my mate that owns the brake joint and see if he can get them in. I might get a set for myself also

[Fuzzlet]

Just a heads up too that it seems that no one has any Hawk HP Plus in stock anywhere, which is a bit of a bummer. Looks like I'll have to wait until next time to try them.

Haha I picked up my set (front and back) from mania today along with some 4000 series rotors (as the old rotors need replacing)...does help I ordered them 2 weeks ago

[Hellmun]

Regie, I'd try just the new pads first up without the slotted rotors, as you are only doing 4 track days a year.

If you get serious and start chasing tenths of a second then you will need some dedicated track pads and a set of the 4000 rotors.

I'm running the HPS at the moment and finding them fine for the road and about 4 laps of the track but after that they seem to glaze over and trying to pull up the car is a problem but then I do drive on the limit. I need to go to Hawk Blues as a track pad.

Some reason you can't get the HP+ CB? Andrew runs them in his car and they were pretty good, we didn't get the brakes overheating much in the wakefield 300 enduro. They stayed relatively consistent. The tyres were another story...

[Regie]

just another question.

is there any fiddling around with the anti rattle brackets etc? or are they only on the rear brakes.

just a relativley simple swap?

[Fuzzlet]

On my NA changing the pads and discs was a relatively simply affair. Basically just involved taking the old parts out and putting the new parts in (with a few adjustments to suit). I cant imagine the NB brakes being any harder